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Unfortunately the only thing stoping the new Greddy profec EBC being wired in is me Doahh!

Plumbing run & hidden well but fitting the tiny wires threw firewall proved a daunting task for a excaveman and hence that was as far as the coopers sparkling ales got me.

If theres a simple pic for a simple twit please forward.

Will happily post the Fitout & review of this EBC if I get it running.

Ah, sorry, it's reasonably fresh in my mind. I just put a profec bspec 2 in the 180.

Just match the wire colours up, pick up power from the cig lighter or something. The instructions I printed off weren't too bad.

Nothing as spectacular as the previous posts.

A good while back got a dash mat for the RS4. Fitted like a glove. Later I got a mat from an unmentionable for the 25G. . I finally fitted it today. It is like a soft sock.

Had to use a bucket full of viagra, oops velcro to get it to fit. Looks shit but will protect the dash.

Got any idea on the brand/supplier of the dash mat for the RS4?

I need one to keep the glare out of my eyes and don't know where to buy from.

Thanks!

Edited by wookster

Yeah the wiring i think will be ok but nm35 firewall behind battery is proving a task for me oversized hands

Put a coat hanger wire through first. Just don't stick it into the wiring loom.

Under dash is my least favorite part of the car. Usually requires a couple of physio appointments after!!

Put a new radiator in my beast today. It seems to have fixed my heat soak under load on the highway problem.

The coolant I dropped from it was still quite brown even after the mechanic was instructed to flush it after doing the welch plugs.

So I did a reverse flush with the old radiator and got rid of some more crap from the engine.

Installed the new radiator with some small difficulties but all in all not too bad for a mid-range aftermarket one.

Needle didn't move much on my highway test run, hoorah!

Also pulled the wheels off I got with the car, one tyre was down to the canvas :O

Put some ford territory steel wheels on instead, they'll do until I save some more money up

Greddy Profec installed...

The unit is extremely well made. I had the now low (9psi) & high (15psi) settings adjusted in 5 mins. The fact it has alarm overboost warning aswell a limiter setting is peace of mind.now to fiddle with the other options utilising the bar graph screen layout option to get the best ramp up to preset pressures....

Greddy Profec installed...

The unit is extremely well made. I had the now low (9psi) & high (15psi) settings adjusted in 5 mins. The fact it has alarm overboost warning aswell a limiter setting is peace of mind.now to fiddle with the other options utilising the bar graph screen layout option to get the best ramp up to preset pressures....

Why such a low low boost? These cars run 12 psi from factory.

These cars run an easy 12-14psi on standard boost without a tune....shit you could even bump it up to 18psi and the ecu with more than protect everything without a tune.

P.s. The turbo WILL fail one do regardless of the boost....at 9psi the thing would be a bag if shit!!

Its set at 15psi craig. The 9 psi is purely due to low/high settings requiring to be installed.

The donor turbo to be highflowed is 7 weeks away from Japan threw Import Monster (why did i click send by ship)

Ill be happy to be on the road until that stage.

I thought it would be an even bigger bag of shit parked up broken.

Appreciate the feedback tho.

I highly recommend the new Greddy EBC for anyone in shopping for a boost controller.

I wonder what the difference in the spooling rpm is with a greddy profec (or similar EBC) vs a humble ball and spring valve? I know a $30 valve is a big improvement over just running an open line from the pressure source to the wastegate actuator.

Im currently looking for a lower spooling rpm since I have put on a hypergear hi-flow rebuilt turbo.

I wonder what the difference in the spooling rpm is with a greddy profec (or similar EBC) vs a humble ball and spring valve? I know a $30 valve is a big improvement over just running an open line from the pressure source to the wastegate actuator.

Im currently looking for a lower spooling rpm since I have put on a hypergear hi-flow rebuilt turbo.

When do you expect your turbo to start making usefull boost? Here is my chart achieved using a Mac valve and my G4 Link ecu as electronic boost controller:

20131121Boostcurve001_zps6ff5756f.jpg

You get what you pay for. Take a look at the greddy profec pdf and you will understand the difference in having full control in cabin vs standing under the bonnet winding a bleed valve in and out. The main difference is keeping actuator held closed via the solenoid allowing a faster ramp to the set total instead of bleeding of via ball valve.

The proper (Turbosmart style) ball valves actually work in a similar way as the electronic controller, and they do a great job of holding boost pressure off the actuator until the desired boost is reached.

I still prefer an electronic controller for the simple fact they have an overboost warning, and the ability to run a 4 or 5 port MAC valve.

Looks good Toby. :)

When do you expect your turbo to start making usefull boost? Here is my chart achieved using a Mac valve and my G4 Link ecu as electronic boost controller:

At the moment I am running 9psi max boost. I am trying to improve the turbo response under 3000rpm. Currently it starts to build boost from perhaps 2300 rpm, it can produce the full 9psi by 3000 rpm, but I would like to improve that around 2500 - 2700 rpm band where it sits at highway speeds.

Currently I am using a cheapo turbotech (which btw gummed up and caused some big overboosts, resulting in me replacing the turbo), but with very little preload on the spring. It does help the spool compared to a direct wastegate line, but I cant add any more spring pressure without winding the boost up.

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