Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

LOL! Read that completely wrong. I thought you paid $100 for a set of tyres!! I thought "Do you even grip?".

I got a screw in one once, drove on it for a while just tightened it when it was leaking lots lol.

Hahaha yeah i tightened the offending screw when i jacked it up to put some spare 17" i had sitting around (to match rolling radius') but found that my nuts were too big...

So i'm glad i found some cheap 19" tyres a few months ago.

Finally made a steel cargo barrier for the boot in the stagea (instead of the original leather one) as the wife was going for a bit of a drive with lots of stuff in the back.

For anyone who is interested, the top metal rod of the normal one is 13mm - I used a half inch (12.7mm) solid rod which clipped in just fine, with a 20mm by 20mm steel tube for the bottom, and 3.15mm thick 50mm by 50mm mesh welded between the two for the middle.. :-)

Ian

Well finally had a bit of shed time! Fitted up rs4s rear cradle and 2way lsd, and whiteline rear sway bar , adjustable camber arms front and rear, hicas lock bar , r33 rear brakes and t3 rotors to match front , greddy rear strut brace. Wired in full race ets pro altessa controler as a stand alone unit, got the recaros in and bolted up, slid some nice new wheels under with some substantial 265 rubber on the back , connected and mounted my innovate motorsports lambda meter and put in some jtc n1 coil overs, and put on carbon ganador mirrors

Now just a wheel align and all good , when we get a bit of cool weather ill go and do some more tunning and turn boost up and water/meth injectionpost-76904-0-45997100-1390659802_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1

Well finally had a bit of shed time! Fitted up rs4s rear cradle and 2way lsd, and whiteline rear sway bar , adjustable camber arms front and rear, hicas lock bar , r33 rear brakes and t3 rotors to match front , greddy rear strut brace. Wired in full race ets pro altessa controler as a stand alone unit, got the recaros in and bolted up, slid some nice new wheels under with some substantial 265 rubber on the back , connected and mounted my innovate motorsports lambda meter and put in some jtc n1 coil overs, and put on carbon ganador mirrors

Now just a wheel align and all good , when we get a bit of cool weather ill go and do some more tunning and turn boost up and water/meth injectionattachicon.gifimage.jpg

Such a shame you didn't get much done... :whistling:

Sounds like it'll be almost a different car! It's looking damn good too.

Well finally had a bit of shed time! Fitted up rs4s rear cradle and 2way lsd, and whiteline rear sway bar , adjustable camber arms front and rear, hicas lock bar , r33 rear brakes and t3 rotors to match front , greddy rear strut brace. Wired in full race ets pro altessa controler as a stand alone unit, got the recaros in and bolted up, slid some nice new wheels under with some substantial 265 rubber on the back , connected and mounted my innovate motorsports lambda meter and put in some jtc n1 coil overs, and put on carbon ganador mirrors

Now just a wheel align and all good , when we get a bit of cool weather ill go and do some more tunning and turn boost up and water/meth injectionattachicon.gifimage.jpg

Nice! Did you find a lock bar that bolted straight up or did you have to do a cut and shut job on one to fit?

post-76904-0-04771500-1390740681_thumb.jpg

Fitment stance style with grip :) 18x10 +10 with a 265 on it very little stretch only -1.5 deg of camber , nice big contact area for grip, only rolled gaurds no pumping or manipulating ! A very happy boy

  • Like 1

My wagon is back in the shop as of this morning to sort out the exhaust (it's almost head-ache inducingly loud), some light-throttle tuning and a few small niggles here and there. Something was causing some restriction somewhere, so hopefully the exhaust sorts it out while still reducing volume. They're sourcing a new muffler from SMB, and apparently an SMB muffler has been used on a 500kW R33 that's still pretty quiet.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You're not wrong, but more than a few times I've heard of people running into issues where their injector characterization isn't quite right and that approach works for that specific configuration but once they switch over to a new set they discover a whole bunch of stuff wasn't set up correctly. It's slightly more annoying to reverse engineer the OEM MAF transfer function but you already have the sensor wired up to the factory harness so keeping it around for a few weeks more while you figure out the tune is easy enough. I've seen GM also use a combination of both MAF + MAP in their ECUs before, MAF is for steady state and a calculation of the cylinder VE to correct the base VE table, then in transients it uses that calculated VE + raw MAP to determine cylinder filling somehow.
    • I know this one’s the BB one. My tuner did make mention about the actuator. I am curious about the VCT as well
    • Might also needs a stronger actuator with the right preloading. With older 2019 built bush G3 units, BB upgrade or 21U housing down size makes a pretty decent gain in response as well. 
    • Hey lads  so im finally putting together my rb30 forged bottom end and ran into an issue. I measured my main bearing clearance with arp main studs torqued to 60 ft-lbs using ACL H series STD size bearings and standard, un-ground crank shaft journals and got an oil clearance reading of about 1.3 thou measuring straight up and down and about 2.8 thou measuring at a 45 degree angle (just above and below the parting line). My machine shop said they measured the main tunnel and it was all within spec (they didnt say the actual measurement) and to go with a standard size bearing, which i have done and the clearance is too tight, I'm guessing because of the extra clamping force from the arp studs distorting the main tunnel. I was wanting to run about 2.5 thou main bearing clearance.  My questions are: 1. could i just use the HX extra 1 thou clearance ACL bearings? that would fix my straight up and down clearance making it about 2.3 thou, but then would the side to side clearance be too big at around 3.8 thou? 2. what actually is the recommended main bearing clearance for measuring near the parting line / side to side. i know its supposed to be bigger as the bearing has some eccentricity built into it but how much more clearance should there be compared to the straight up and down measurement? at the moment there is about 1.5thou difference, is that acceptable or should it be less? 3. If i took the engine block + girdle back to the machine shop and got them to line bore the main tunnel (like i told them to do the first time, but they said it didnt need it) what bearing size would i buy? the STD size bearing shells already slide in fairly easily with no real resistance, some even falling out if i tip the girdle up-side-down. If im taking material out of the main tunnel would i need a bearing with extra material on the back side to make up for it? this is probably confusing af to read so if something doesn't make sense let me know and ill try explaining in a different way. My machine shop doesn't come back from christmas break until mid January, hence why i'm asking these questions here. TIA for any help or info 
    • I bought the model back in Japan in Feb. I realised I could never build it, looked around for people who could build it, turns out there's some very skilled people out there that will make copies of 1:1 cars or near enough. I'm not really a photo guy... but people were dragging me in a group chat for the choice of bumper as someone else saw the car before it was finished as they are also a customer of that shop. I took the photo in the above post because I was pretty confident that the lip would work wonders for it. Here's some more in-progress and almost-done pics. It gives a good enough idea as to what the rear looks like!   I have also booked in a track day at the end of January. Lets all hope that is nothing but pure fun and games. If it's not pure fun and games, well, I've already got half an engine spare in the cupboard 
×
×
  • Create New...