Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Pulled apart my centre console to eliminate the squeak/rattles from the shifter surround.
A bit of draught excluder tape & about 15 mins work; no more rattles! :woot:

After 3 years, I finally sprayed my trans cooler mount satin black; now you can't see the shiny stainless peeking out through the grille at you.

Also had to replace a broken gas strut mount for the rear door; it snapped off the other day & the hatch crashed down & belted me on the melon. OUCH!
Loctited in and a little rust on the thread; so had to drill it out.

Removed the opposing one to confirm the thread pitch (8mm x 1.25mm); noticed it has a rubber sealing washer on the flange that seats against the body of the car.
After a chat with Scotty; he commented that he's had several snap, and all were using the rubber washer. He also said later build cars do not have the rubber washer.

It makes sense, as the washer allows the threaded shaft to flex (and over time fatigue & snap); rather than the butt hard up against the flange, and let it take all of the load. The hatch struts exert quite a lot of load on the mount, so it's only a matter of time.
If you get a chance; it would definitely be worth the 10 minutes it takes to pop the bottom clip off the bootlid struts; remove them, take off the rubber washer (if fitted) and bolt them back in. You could take the opportunity to put a little dab of grease on the ball end to ensure smooth operation in the future.

Removing & checking BEFORE they snap is far easier than removing a broken thread AFTER they snap.

Happily; a replacement ball mount is easily available through Repco (supplied by Monroe) for $5 Is called "Screw Mount; P/N MLSMP351".

  • Like 2

Following on from pulling the whole rear of the interior out.

I vacuumed then cleaned the chassis with a wet rag then polished dry. Put the seats, floors, walls, mats etc back in. I then sprayed all the fabric areas and scrubbed to get all the stains out, let sit overnight. I then vacuumed the areas and moved onto the front of the interior. I did the same again with the centre console seats etc.

I also had enough time to clean all the door jams and give them a polish. Looks like a brand new car :)

Still have to leather protect and fabric protect the interior.

Next i will be spraying the side front and rear moulds silver to match the rest of the car as they have faded badly and no amount of elbow grease is bringing them back to an acceptable standard.

Does anyone have any good ideas on how to bring black window rubbers back to their glossy finish? Mine are chalky and 'back to black' didn't bring them back good enough for long enough.

  • 2 weeks later...

Well after a few months of stuffing around, wrong parts being ordered and the body not being up to the task.

Looks like I'm finally on the right track to getting my brake upgrade finished, fitted one side up and pretty stoked with the result.

Also today I picked a turbo I had left with John at Precision turbos in Wetherill Park to be rebuilt. Standard turbo with larger Garrett exhaust housing, I also had a few actuators laying around and he picked the best one.

Estimated good for 300kw. Way exceeds my current expectations which is awesome........ can't wait to fit it.

Pics to come.

I'M EXCITE :woot: :woot: :woot: :woot: :woot:

  • Like 1

Ok, so after a grueling day at the gym on saturday competing in the in-house crossfit games. I forced myself to get amongst it today and finally sort out the brakes on my rig. Happy days... :woot::woot::woot:

Helen assisted with bleeding the brake lines. The boat pulls up nicely now. Only took four months to sort out.

I know I promised pics and I will post them up soon, just trying to upload a video to complete my Cert 4 in Business Sales.

AAAAAAAAAAAAAAARGH, its all happening. This will be me when it all done and dusted... :worship:

  • Like 1

I forced myself to get amongst it today and finally sort out the brakes on my rig. Happy days... :woot::woot::woot:

Same here. :cheers:

I just fitted a pair of Ksport 8 piston callipers to the front, trying to increase front braking bias. Seems to have done the trick. The pads are twice the size of the 34 GTR Brembos I had on there. Still only a 330mm disk for clearance under the stocky V35 18's.

I need to find some decent pads for them now, as they have Bendix in them. :/

post-63525-0-34877200-1404054628_thumb.jpg

  • Like 4

R32 son brought home a "PUPPY?" I thought it was a Shetland. He goes to work 6 til 6. I get to do the exercising, which is actually a plus for my health.

Anyway the RS4 came with the cargo barrier and cover which had never been fitted in the 7+ years . So I fitted them today.

The dog, "Phoebe", loves it and rides around looking very regal

PS. Would have been good to have when the kids were growing up.LOL

Edited by 66yostagea

Same here. :cheers:

I just fitted a pair of Ksport 8 piston callipers to the front, trying to increase front braking bias. Seems to have done the trick. The pads are twice the size of the 34 GTR Brembos I had on there. Still only a 330mm disk for clearance under the stocky V35 18's.

I need to find some decent pads for them now, as they have Bendix in them. :/

I have Pagid in mine

I have Pagid in mine

You don't happen to have the part number handy do you Bob?

The Bendix pads overhang the disk by 3mm or so, I want to swap them out sooner rather than later.

#@scotty nm35; get in contact with GSL Rallysport they will have a bunch of options depending on budget and usage.

The delivered from QLD to my place in one day.

Highly recommend.

You don't happen to have the part number handy do you Bob?

The Bendix pads overhang the disk by 3mm or so, I want to swap them out sooner rather than later.

Sorry can't find my receipt - but got them from RaceBrakes - I believe they are an AP pattern.

No worries. I initially wanted road pads and I would drop in front race pads if it ever went to the track again. After discussing it with GSL the A1RM's will be fine for both so I don't need to buy a second set.

I will concentrate on getting the Evo track ready instead I think.

Thanks anyway Bob.

Ok, so here are some pics of my set up with some braided lines thrown into the mix.

Passenger Side...

passengersidebrakesetup.jpg

Drivers Side...

driversidebrakesetup.jpg

AND.....

Rebuilt standard turbo with larger exhaust housing.

rebuiltturbo.jpg

Cant wait to fit this but will need a few other items to complement this and front mount already purchased.

Type 4 Nistune board, bigger injectors & Plazmaman FF Plenum(why? I hear you ask)........ Because I can, and they look the goods. Especially in mat black.

Stay tuned

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Which manifold mate? Meanwhile......Mark is wondering how bonnet vents would look on the NC 🤣
    • Actually,  just remembered there should be info in the threads (somewhere) about swapping to a manual steering rack and deleting power steering all together. 
    • Also had a look at the Nissan JP website looks like the 400r has a slightly shorter ratio than than the regular V37 3.133 VS 2.937 which from a guy who has driven both 3.69 vs 4.11 ratios in the S15 is bugger all. Seems that the AUTO Z runs the same ratio as the 400R but can't find any info as to if its an open or LSD? More often than not the auto LSD is open
    • Do not replace the power steering lines with this stuff. If it's anything like the Chase Bays stuff it will leak and be worse than stock. The reason why the reservoir is on the LH/passenger side of the car is because that's just where the reservoir was most convenient to fit. Don't overthink this stuff. The intake/cold side of the engine is pretty busy on these cars. And again, the hardpipe is designed to be a janky power steering cooler. In theory you can replace it with a real power steering cooler but that's really only for track use where boiling the fluid is a distinct possibility. Start with the low pressure lines feeding the pump from the reservoir. Make sure there isn't a bunch of junk in the reservoir filter. Be careful to not get ATF all over the engine bay. I hate dealing with ATF spills, you can clean it up and the slightest crevice will still release more oil that can still drip over time. You also want to inspect for leaks before you make a mess and can't tell what happened. Most likely you have a leak somewhere that is allowing fluid out and air in. Failing that it's allowing air in but not fluid out. Only place I can really see that happening is on the low pressure side because the pump will pull a slight vacuum to draw fluid in. Everything after the pump is high pressure or lower pressure, approaching atmospheric by the time it returns to the reservoir.
    • I did a skidpan night at SMSP this week, it was much cheaper than $350. But yeah, you need to slap an LSD in that thing.  I put an OS Giken in the 370Z and it's f**king MARVELOUS even compared to Nissan's viscous LSD. So you're saying it's free now that it's a housing estate? 😂
×
×
  • Create New...