Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Got my front windows tinted the other day to match the rear windows and while they where at it i got them to Tint both my Sunroof's

Couldn't find much on other Stagea's getting their Sunroof's tinted, so just went ahead and got it done.

They used 5% Silver finish tint that normally goes on house windows to reflect as much heat as possible

Pretty happy with it!

20150220_182126.jpg

Graeme got a side on pic of your car? Are those rear guards steel or fiberglass?

Yes, here you are:

20150206_170707_1.jpeg

And here's a close up of the rear spoiler, which is another aspect that I'm really pleased with the way it's come out:

20150130_154741.jpg

The rear arches (or guards) are fibreglass on the door and steel on the main body.

  • Like 2

Just ordered some RDA7701 3224mm GTR rotors and dogbones. Going to run Project Mu NS Pads

Anyone running 324mm with the sumitomo caliper + dogbone?

Are you running GTR Brembo with stock brake master cylinder?

Are you running GTR Brembo with stock brake master cylinder?

Stock master is fine with them.

I have r34gtt brakes with 5000k old pads and rotors for sale. Direct bolt on, 4pot caliper, huge improvement to the dodgy stagea brakes. And heaps lighter! 500 bucks.

Lookin good Zach. :)

Message me when you are doing the dump install, it's a pita but if you follow a few simple steps you shouldn't have too many dramas.

Also make sure the car is stone cold (overnight) and soak the studs in WD40 for at least a few hours.

  • Like 1

Custom plenum inlet pipe?

Looks better than the ones I made back in the day, using an evo Kompact BOV by the looks of it rather than the Nissan flange. Simple and well designed.

  • Like 1

Looks better than the ones I made back in the day, using an evo Kompact BOV by the looks of it rather than the Nissan flange. Simple and well designed.

Yeah looks tops, super clean almost stock looking

Looks better than the ones I made back in the day, using an evo Kompact BOV by the looks of it rather than the Nissan flange. Simple and well designed.

But is it lobster back....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks, plan is to drain all fluid tomorrow and do smoke test to find out the leak.   Appreciate your help and want to understand how the system work. So cooling is achieved by the long loop not any rad? The diagram seems to suggest it connects to somewhere inside the cabin and I thought that is a cooler inside firewall. If you look at the diagram it seems to show it connects to something inside firewall. I tried chasing it but not easy unless I take loads off   i am confident pump is good as fluid goes in and it gets soft( steering) but as soon as I turn engine off , loads of bubble come to surface and overflow. When engine is on , fluid level is below minimum but when off it shoots off and thinking it is sucking air in. I suspect aluminium pipe may have a crack line or whole   smoke test with no fluid should be a good start and if needed will remove the pump   In addition, the one going under the engine bay is high pressure line and one directly connecting from pump to resorvoir is return/ low pressure?   finally I searched and suggestion is to use dexron 2 but that is discontinued so bought dexron 3 as all research suggest it is compatible and shouldn’t cause any issues/ blow seals. I bought two liter of dexron 3 motul atf
    • Don't worry about. Just don't try to drive hard enough to make boost and you'll be fine.
    • Yes. This has already been said. It is a loop of hardline in front of the radiator. Because.... the pump is on the LHS and the steering rack hydraulic connections are where they always are on a RHD steering rack....on the RHS. The high pressure line goes down under the engine, along the crossmember, like it does on all Skylines. Don't just throw expensive braided hoses/other kits at it. Work out what is wrong and fix that.
    • Still got the afm on the intake, clamps are shut tight, only loose hose is the one that goes from the j pipe towards the IACV, since it's next to impossible to find a factory hose and the barbs are different sizes (I'm still using clamps on this hose to try and help it seal on the iacv side) I've ordered parts to make up the hotside of the intercooler pipes, I'll plumb it in and see what happens in a few days I suppose The turbo's internally gated, can I just unscrew the tension rod to let the gate open?
    • Did this ever go further ? Would love some updated info 
×
×
  • Create New...