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Straight swap? Nice butt and rib hugging?

pretty much straight swap. Hugs the body perfect. Sits alot lower then stock seats but works for me as im 6ft. I had to use my oem seat belt retainers as the 350z ones wouldnt secure the seat belt. Driverside was 100% plug and play but the passenger side for some reason one of the plugs were removed and the inside front bolt hole was out so needed some massaging.

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Fitted rear white line sway bar with whiteline bushes and stock links. Find it very squeeky. Id say it may be the links causing it. I greased them up again and it went away for a while but is now back really bad. Any ideas?

Fitted rear white line sway bar with whiteline bushes and stock links. Find it very squeeky. Id say it may be the links causing it. I greased them up again and it went away for a while but is now back really bad. Any ideas?

Piss the links off & get a new set if they're creaking; they should be silent.

If it's the "D" bushes, replace them with either Whiteline or Nolathane PTFE lined versions; these require no lubrication for their lifetime.

They are whiteline bushes thats where i was shocked at the noise. Ill replace the links with whiteline adjustables and see if the massive creaking stops. You would have possibly heard it the other day when i dropped around

They are whiteline bushes thats where i was shocked at the noise. Ill replace the links with whiteline adjustables and see if the massive creaking stops. You would have possibly heard it the other day when i dropped around

I did mate, if they were the PTFE impregnated ones; they wouldn't be doing that though.

Let me know if you want me to get you a set of links; I still get good pricing...

Whilst my M35 is on the hoist might as well replace things that need it...

Therefore upon closer inspection the radiator will be replaced... won't have to worry about the auto transcooler getting in the way with the new one :P

Over the weekend i installed the Fujitsubo Legalis R Exhaust. Huge difference in comparison as you can see. The muffler that was on the car was bi modal, controlled via a switch in the dash, not sure if its a factory option but maybe someone here would know.

I havent had a chance to hear the new exhaust as i did the rocker cover gasket at the same time and after doing that the Stag had developed a missfire, Code P1320 - Ignition Signal. Need to fix this before i can hear it 100%
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You can see the adjustable valve, the motor is in the back of the car near the standard TV receiver.
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  • Like 2

Is the old exhaust you pulled off branded? Or do they come factory option that way? Guess that's the switch under the dash then right?

Looks like the Skyline coupe mid section, repacing the usual massive mid box, and the Nismo accessory sound control exhaust... I had one sitting in my shed, as I never quite got around to installing the motor and wiring before i sold the car..

But I did have the coupe mid section.. Well worth the $120 and 30 minutes fitting...

Had the airbag light always on and the A?T check light came on a few times too.

Did the sequence with the key to get rid of airbag light, and added trans oil (matic J).

No more lights showing up :)

Just have to look up that rear right noise next and it will be all good (will make sure I check the handbrake cable).

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    • I think my main complaint with your idea is that there is a veneer of idealism spread across it. You want the simple numbers to make it easier, but all they will do is make it easier for someone to come to the wrong conclusion because the fine details will kick them in the nuts. As it is right now, the tiny bit of arithmetic is NOT the obstacle to understanding what will fit and what will not fit. The reality of trying it is what determines whether it will fit. If you had a "standard rule" that R34 GTT guards have that magic 100mm space from the hub face to whichever side you were worried about, and someone said "excellent, this wheel is only 98mm in that direction, I'll just go spend $4k on them and jam them on my sick ride".....they would just as likely find out that the "standard rule" is not true because the rear subframe is offset to one side by a fairly typical (but variable) 8mm on their car and they only have 92mm on one side and 108 on the other.
    • It still combines inches with mm, especially when you have .5 inches involved, and mm and inches that can go in either direction. This would give a clear idea on both sides of the rim, right away, with no arithmetic. Even better if somebody gives you the dimensions of the arch of multiple cars. i.e GTR may be 125mm, a A80 Supra may be 117mm, or something along those lines. Yes, you can 'know' that going from a 10in rim to a 10.5in rim with the same offset moves both sides about 6mm, but you still have to 'know' that and do the math. Often it's combined. People are going from 9.5 +27 to 10.5 +15. You may do the math to know it, but if it was going from (I had to go look it up to be sure) 241mm/2 - 27 - 93.5mm from the center line to (more math) 266/2 - 15 (118mm) from the center line. Versus 93mm vs 118mm. It's right there. If you know you have a GTT with 100mm guards you can see right away that one is close to flush and the other absolutely won't work. And when someone says "Oh the GTR is 120mm" suddenly you see that the 10.5 +15 is about perfect. (or you go and buy rims with approximately 118mm outward guard space) I think it's safe to say that given one of the most common questions in all modified cars is "How do offsets work" and "How do I know if wheels will fit on my car" that this would be much simpler... Of course, nothing will really change and nobody is going to remanufacture wheels and ditch inches and offset based on this conversation :p We'll all go "18x9+30 will line up pretty close to the guards for a R34 GTT (84mm)" but 'pretty close' is still not really defined (it is now!) and if you really care you still have go measure. Yes it depends on camber and height and dynamic movement, but so do all wheels no matter what you measure it for.
    • But offsets are simple numbers. 8" wheel? Call it 200mm, near enough. +35 offset? OK, so that means the hub face is that far out from the wheel centreline. Which is 2s of mental arithmetic to get to 65mm to outer edge and 135mm to inner. It's hardly any more effort for any other wheel width or offset. As I said, I just close my eyes and can see a picture of the wheel when given the width and offset. That wouldn't help me trust that a marginal fitment would actually go in and clear everything, any more than the supposedly simple numbers you're talking about. I dunno. Maybe I just automatically do numbers.
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