Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hunting down a intermittent engine light issue. I have narrowed it down to something in the dash or the actual dash. Iv pulled everything out and cleaned jiggled wires. Just a question for those in the know, what is the black box with all the wires that is on the right hand side of the dash hole?

actually I was just poking around under mine today, and I have a black box with lots of wires between the fuse box and the driver's kick panel, its a kind of super interior box which beeps, does central locking etc etc.

why do you think the problem is under the dash. do you know what the error code actually is?

Error code is primary ignition, but since she is a wasted spark set up with a new coil pack it's pretty unlikely. That and if I bang the dash the light goes out. I messed around behind the dash and the light stayed off for 100km then came on, then bashed the dash and now it's off again. I'd like the fix to be permanent as I'm trading her for a pnm35.

It could be, but I would prefer to not spend 1 k refitting the original coil set up, on a car I am getting a 2k trade in on. The C34 has had the wasted spark set up over five years and runs great. The car still runs great! The new coil pack and ECU reset has made it run even better! But the engine light issue is only a year old, and as I said goes away when I hit the dash. The only success I have had in keeping it off is by messing around with the wiring behind the dash. Hence why I believe there is so thing lose back there that is causing the engine to short on and off. Or that's the theory today.

It could be, but I would prefer to not spend 1 k refitting the original coil set up, on a car I am getting a 2k trade in on. The C34 has had the wasted spark set up over five years and runs great. The car still runs great! The new coil pack and ECU reset has made it run even better! But the engine light issue is only a year old, and as I said goes away when I hit the dash. The only success I have had in keeping it off is by messing around with the wiring behind the dash. Hence why I believe there is so thing lose back there that is causing the engine to short on and off. Or that's the theory today.

Recently had the rust repair done on both of my cars ($1360 for both). (about 4 weeks ago now). Since we have decided to put my RSfourS up for sale. Not wanting to let it go due to plans for it. but if it sells it sells if not ill be happy to keep it with the rust repaired. but selling as we are looking to upgrade to a bigger car (Elgrand). I will post link up at some point or if anyone is interested (tuned to 244KW, high km's chassis low km's engine, $16,000 atm) it will definetely be missed.

So next on my to do list was to upgrade the cooling system on my M35. Radiator, coolant bypass mod, water pump, Nismo thermostat and I also got a high pressure Nismo cap which I put on straight away because it looked pretty. Probably not the best idea as after about two days the top tank on my radiator has cracked. Maybe coincidence as it was 13 years old but I don't think so. So when my new radiator with plastic tanks turns up (thanks Scotty), should I ditch the Nismo cap? Anyone been running a Nismo cap on a plastic tanked radiator for any length of time?

So next on my to do list was to upgrade the cooling system on my M35. Radiator, coolant bypass mod, water pump, Nismo thermostat and I also got a high pressure Nismo cap which I put on straight away because it looked pretty. Probably not the best idea as after about two days the top tank on my radiator has cracked. Maybe coincidence as it was 13 years old but I don't think so. So when my new radiator with plastic tanks turns up (thanks Scotty), should I ditch the Nismo cap? Anyone been running a Nismo cap on a plastic tanked radiator for any length of time?

Plastic top tanks do fail but a brand new one should be fine with the new cap. But ditch the Nismo thermostat - it serves no useful purpose but just delays warming up to optimum operating temperature.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
    • Hope the cans went down well at least 
    • 255 can't go wrong with the price.
    • When I was replacing my pump due to being stranded in the wrong state, I went with the Deatschwerks 320lph kit. It is a direct plug in to the stock wires, harness, everything. It comes with a plug... but you can plug the OEM plug directly into this thing. https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD Downside: Won't actually flow that much on boost if you want to push it on E85, but it's comparable to the 040/255 etc. Little more actually.
×
×
  • Create New...