Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On 15/6/2022 at 4:11 PM, oxford1327 said:

What does this question mean?

The alternator needs to see some sort of load to start charging. This is typically done with the charge light in the dash. You don’t have this light so where does the alt get a load from

On 6/15/2022 at 4:17 PM, RBW49N said:

The alternator needs to see some sort of load to start charging. This is typically done with the charge light in the dash. You don’t have this light so where does the alt get a load from

Ahhh righto, I've got no idea, when it comes to electrical stuff, me and wires have a toxic relationship,most times I let the smoke out of em.....so I leave that stuff to others.

So I'm guessing that installer has that sorted, but if battery starts to die I'll see if they missed doin that.

well, you'll be able to tell immediately if it is not sorted because you will have 12v and lower when the car is running. If it is 13.8ish all is well.  One option is to add a resistor instead of a battery charge globe which can be hidden behind the dash, but you lose the warning it your alternator isn't working with that solution.

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Currently designing and testing a 3d printed holder for my Boost Gauge on my RS Stagea. Keen to know if anyone else out there has had a go at 3d printing parts or mods on there cars 

PXL_20220809_015618715.jpg

Screenshot 2022-08-09 122717.png

  • Like 1

Great idea. Once apon a time there were gauge pods available that replaced the stock clock above the dash as well, would be great to see an option for a printed replacement.

How is the visibility to the gauge from the driver's seat?

I looked at the clock replacement made by Mearcat (http://www.mearcat.com.au/stagea.html) but it just looked a bit bulky to me so I decided to make have a go at making my own. While visibility is good I think it is a location better suited for something like a voltage gauge I want to try making a holder to replace the air vent by the drivers door just trying to figure out how to get the damn thing out  

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Duncan pinned this topic
  • 1 month later...

i present to you made from old chopping board a prototype of a cold air intake to match up to the factory airbox on a RB25 Det neo  s2 Stagea 

I'm just using foam just to keep it of the bracketry for the high beam and bonnet latch 

but just from testing the throttle response seams to have improved but cant be sure its just placebo going to drive with it for a while to see  and if I do feel it is worth while I will look into making a more permanent solution 

ps. got the original idea forum this forum post when looking for replacement foam for the air box (http://www.r33gt-r.com/2009/04/breathing-better.html)

PXL_20221017_224229216.jpg

PXL_20221017_224259325.jpg

PXL_20221017_224245372.jpg

PXL_20221017_224305787.jpg

  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 4 months later...

Manually converted about just under a year ago, loved driving it but was ready to chuck in some big boy parts. Started with plazmaman half intake, which made the car terrible to drive. Waited a few months for more gold and then bought hot side parts then got them fitted with fabrication including custom intake, intercooler pipes, washer fluid, power steering, overflow tank and catch can. After that I needed a bunch of lines and a whole fuel system overhaul and fluids for new ball bearing turbo. I decided I might as well upgrade oil cooler, re-located oil filter to a better spot. After all that was done it was time for a haltech plug in play kit with supporting sensors, also have ic7 wiring all done, just need to leave old cluster in to sort out my 4WD light which is still haunting me. Which leaves my next goal which is to sort that out and cert the car. That hopefully shouldn’t take too long because I’m going to build my head next.

  • Like 1

Ooo, sounds pretty good @SLIXK! Do you have any photos?

Also, which oil cooler did you get? And did you go with a kit for oil filter relocation? These two things are on my wishlist for when I have some more funds. Haven't done too much research yet though.

Would also be interested to hear how you go with getting everything certified when you get there.

3 hours ago, soviet_merlin said:

Ooo, sounds pretty good @SLIXK! Do you have any photos?

Also, which oil cooler did you get? And did you go with a kit for oil filter relocation? These two things are on my wishlist for when I have some more funds. Haven't done too much research yet though.

Would also be interested to hear how you go with getting everything certified when you get there.

Setrab oil cooler bro, not sure what relocation kit was used, but filter is right inside the arch of the right wheel behind the plastic.

8BF672C6-7B0B-451B-8020-83B0FB20505F.jpeg
 

I’m also I’m based in New Zealand so not sure if the cert stuff isthe same or not but I will let you know how it goes.

Edited by SLIXK
  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • On the bright side, at least you knew that it happened and remedied before anything happened. A friend of mine just took his Fiat 124 to a shop for an oil change and they didn't tighten the oil filter housing properly. 4.5 quarts spewed out and even after refilling + tightening the cap the engine has a tick now.
    • So, more pain. The FAST manifold is a little larger than the stocker. This is problematic because there really wasn't much clearance to begin with, so going from 'barely enough' well into 'no' is sad based on the external dimensions of the thing, even though where it bolts to the head is the same. Result is the fuel rails sit a good 25mm higher, and this is a bit of an issue with the wiring that runs behind the motor, and the fuel lines, and everything else. When pushing the manifold on, it required a huge amount of force to crush wiring looms to fit it, sensors like the MAP sensor are about 1mm from the firewall, and the FPR just has to bend ABS lines to be forced into place. After some brainstorming and some sad drinking, the loom for some reason ran from the grommet behind the ABS sensor, then to the driver side head, then back to the passenger side head. So all of this was pulled back and stripped, a few wires cut and rejoined, so that the 'branch' was now on the passenger side's head as below: Before you basically couldn't see anything behind the driver head. This is much improved! The MAP sensor is now pointing up (instead of at the firewall) Brackets have been made up for the rail. The rails are for a LS1, the manifold is designed around a LS2 as it's base. Which of course has slightly different bracketry and water pump clearance, hence the mods people need to do. Should be hopefully mounted tonight. I spent money on a new FPR that is slightly more compact than my Turbosmart FPR1200. The gauge has also been moved to the rail. There's also apparently an ORB to AN Union instead of the adapter, because the ~25mm of the current adapter is going to make the difference. Provided this all goes together and arrives today, it'll be the totally not stressful attempt to start it.
    • This seems like a pointless exercise. There is no E30 availability. Ongoing availability of E85 should not be assumed. Flex-fuel is the only sensible approach, so you can use E85 when and where you can get it, 98 when that's al you can get, and anything in between as you fill it up and drain it down. And if that means replacing the pumps, fitting a flex capable sensor/ECU/whatever has to be done to these Renault shitboxen, then.....so be it?
    • Sorry, I wasn't very clear.....just that the standard injectors are apparently good over 600rwhp/450rwkw which you won't get to on standard turbos anyway.....they are much better sized from factory than we are used to in RBs.
    • I'm not sure where you are, but United Terrey Hills has E85. 
×
×
  • Create New...