Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've ordered/bought all sorts of shit for my Stagea over the past week (mind you, I've owned it for 8 days).

Just picked up some DRiFT "Blade" seats (GTR replicas) yesterday for $400 a pair, BARGIN!

I've ordered/bought all sorts of shit for my Stagea over the past week (mind you, I've owned it for 8 days).

Just picked up some DRiFT "Blade" seats (GTR replicas) yesterday for $400 a pair, BARGIN!

Not too bad thoses seats for the money. I just sold a brand new pair for $360 about 3 weeks ago.

Do you need a FMIC? I will have brand new ones for R33/r34 C34. tube and fin for $300 full kit in approx 6 weeks.

$114.thumbsup.gif No, I know the one you're talking about, that one was VERY nice, but I would have to paint anyway, so a couple of little marks didn't worry me. I've just got to fit some mesh in the opening.

Ended up using IM, as I spoke to Jesse last week; whilst his commission is less, his container cost was higher, and the end price was noticeably more on an identical part. I would definitely use him on Air Freight though, great to deal with.

Cheers, Dale

Was it the white one that looks twisted in the pics?

Not too bad thoses seats for the money. I just sold a brand new pair for $360 about 3 weeks ago.

Do you need a FMIC? I will have brand new ones for R33/r34 C34. tube and fin for $300 full kit in approx 6 weeks.

Yeah they aren't bad at all. Better then Spending 2k on the same seat ... that money can go elsewhere :P

I do need one, won't be putting one on for a while though I think ... do you have to cut under the battery with your kits? I was going to run the stealth shit that justcrap sell so the engine bay looks factory.

Was it the white one that looks twisted in the pics?

No, that one's listed for $334w00t.gif. And it's a pile of shit.

It's this one; post-61153-0-77544000-1300065722_thumb.jpgPearl white, a few marks, but no big deal.

I'm going to cut out the centre bar anyway and put some expanded mesh in, so there was no point buying a mint one to chop up.

Just got to go to Nissan & get the bad news on the driving light blanking plates...rolleyes.gif

Edited by Daleo

yeah, will have to cut under battery. These are the cross over type, not return type.

Have 10 full sets coming.

Plan to order some return style, when I find a manufacture, May have to send them a sample to copy.

Have some 3 sets of Bride copies coming as well

Might have to "test" a pair in my car :whistling:

yeah, will have to cut under battery. These are the cross over type, not return type.

Have 10 full sets coming.

Plan to order some return style, when I find a manufacture, May have to send them a sample to copy.

Did the M35 version get off the ground Darrin?

Did the M35 version get off the ground Darrin?

Not yet. I was trying to get the manufacture to buy a M35 kit to copy, until they realised what they cost

They want me to send over a sample (pipe only) which would cost me $1000 to do, which depeneding on the number of m35 sales, I would need to recover some of the $1000 outlay. I will probaly still do it, but i will would be min 3-4 months before they would be done.

Edited by darrinspencer

Not yet. I was trying to get the manufacture to buy a M35 kit to copy, until they realised what they cost

They want me to send over a sample (pipe only) which would cost me $1000 to do, which depeneding on the number of m35 sales, I would need to recover some of the $1000 outlay. I will probaly still do it, but i will would be min 3-4 months before they would be done.

No worries, thanks.

I made a stainless set I sold for $250, back to the flange so he could remove and refit for track days etc. They came up great, not my thing (I like stealth) but the look is perfect. 3 inch pipes are the go, you just need to work out the merge.

these are the ones that i wanted to get, but i couldn't justify the cost. they look good tho

am performance blast pipes

That isn't a bad price for a set of blast pipes, the set I am looking at would be close to $400 landed from the states!

these are locally made, and he can fit them for an extra $150, probably a bit far for ya to come to get an exhaust fitted.

whichever way you go, get them flanged so the can be removed. i still have my big fujitsubo muffler for my car when i do interstate trips.

got my kakimoto on today. scott made me up a front pipe.

looks the sex.

Thanks scott!

quieter than before, with straight through 80mm confuses me.

How can that be Aaron? I've driven one with a Kakimoto & it was loud. What did you have on before? (sorry, it's probably listed 5 pages ago, just don't want to go looking).

How can that be Aaron? I've driven one with a Kakimoto & it was loud. What did you have on before? (sorry, it's probably listed 5 pages ago, just don't want to go looking).

I'm pretty sure it looked a bit like this...post-61153-0-50538100-1300106234_thumb.jpg lol?

Sorry Aaron, I saw this the other day, & I was just reminded of it. No hate :thumbsup:

Edited by Daleo

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey to anyone that reads this, long time lurker first time posting, sorry if it’s been answered before but I’ve been looking for nearly a year now for answers. ive got a 25det neo in an r32 that works awesome when it works (made 500whp on 21psi) but works 45% of the time, 1st issue there’s a harness that runs under the passengers side front fender that my tire keeps rubbing through and one wire seems to power the fuel pump even though I’ve done the relay “mod” some people like to call it, and when it does rub through it kills the car, yes next time I’m with the car I want to take the fender off and try tuck the harness well out of the way but I’d also like to try and by pass this mysterious wire as well lol, also wouldn’t mind getting power from the alternator as I’ve read it supplies the pump with 13v ? But no idea where to run the power wire too. 2nd issue, when replacing my fuel pump and fuel hanger I managed to break the factory fuel level sender leaving me with no fuel gauge, I’d like to buy the fpg fuel level sender for r32/s13 but the plug it comes with confuses me, I’ve got a detschwerks x1 fuel hanger which has light + pump - level + pump + and a ground, I’m no auto sparky but I’m wondering if I can cut the plug off the fuel level sender and wire the negative to the pump negative and wire the positive to the level positive to get a fuel gauge back ?🥴 3rd and final issue, the reason I want a fuel gauge is because whenever it’s below half a tank, it fuel starves like crazy and runs like a bag of shit even without doing a pull or sloshing the fuel round in the tank, I’d also like to fix this but have no idea what’s causing it, I’ve got a dw420 and a dead head fuel setup meaning the fuel is regulated before it gets to the engine, my only theory is that the return line is to close to the pickup on the pump and when it’s at half a tank the return line is causing the pump to cavitate enough to cause fuel pressure issues, that or the pump isn’t low enough in the tank which I would find strange considering I can’t find a single thing online about it, also if ya wondering how I figured out it happens at half a tank without a fuel gauge, I waited until it started happening and went and filled up and the car took exactly 30 litres every time I tested it, if ya managed to read through this mess I appreciate that and any recommendations , cheers
    • ChatGPT is trash and lies about things I would not expect it to lie about considering many things it's wrong about are very easily verified with google. The S3 R33 GTR shares its steering wheel with R33 GTSTs of the same production year. Part number is 48430-26U17. I'm guessing you have to get it from a car that came with HICAS though, the ER33 is 48430-26U18, but the HR33 diagrams note that part number is still leather vs 48430-26U13 which is not leather-wrapped. They all use the same airbags, so if you need another one you can get it off basically any same year R33 or Stagea.
    • I'm going to run hard lines front to back in the future. That should help dissipate a bit more heat. If not, a fuel cooler might be next 
    • No. The mark is with respect to the cam rotation. None of those things have altered it. When stationary, the cam position stays in sync with the crank position. It doesn't matter if you moved the head 4 feet up. Hence, that mark needs to stay exactly where it is.  
    • Toasty! I was around the same. Around 50 but with a fuel cooler. Got my tuner to dial down the pumps and its so much better.. i think last time I drove it was around 35-40 during summer. PWM makes a huge diff. I have the 1 PWM controller running my feeds.
×
×
  • Create New...