Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Not really. They go back in their because it was the easiest way from factory.

It's a proven advantage to vent them somewhere else. My RX7 has the breather go into a bottle... The optimal setup is a 2L+ bottle, with steel wool baffles and a drain back to your sump.

Oil vapour = lower octane of your fuel and grime up intake. Which we all know is an issue on VQ motors. When I ripped off my intake it looked like someone had poured a bottle of oil through the intake. (Given it probably had never been pulled off its whole life of 200,000km)

Yeh, i'll probably do that, or just get a silicone joiner the same as the black pipe, just a little more dollars.

Just to agree...

They go back in there because it is part of the 'environmental protection' of using all vapours through the engine etc.! Even fuel vapours that come out of the charcoal canister get re-used into the engine.

Optimal setup depends on your sump size, what boost you are running (which to some extent has an effect on blow by) and how efficient the scavenging of the 'catch can' is. Draining back to the sump is good, but you don't want to pressurise your sump, so use suitable PCV valves, and vent the 'cleaned' air back into the factory position. Then less oil gets into the intake and you don't increase your chance of detonation.

The S14/S15 SR20DET has a great factory 'catch can' built into the rocker cover. The design means most of the oil gets returned to the sump, and it still vents back into a 'factory position' after the AFM and before the turbo. Works excellent.

Yeeep. I'll probably just end up getting a nipple put onto this intake, as i'm not after performance on this motor.

Oh and this afternoon got bored, so pulled some peices out of the interior and washed it all. Pulled seats out and vacuumed, cleaned up amp wiring and put it under the boot floor.

So gross what appears over time, the cup holder in the middle was a mix of tobacco and sticky spilt Rockstar/Monster, including under the slip-in peice.

Fitted the throttle body... redet the ECU.

Car wanted to stall a few times on the first drive, but after restarting the car it seems good. Drove around this morning for a bit and no 4wd light yet... which is a good sign so far. Fingers crossed.

Fitted the throttle body... redet the ECU.

Car wanted to stall a few times on the first drive, but after restarting the car it seems good. Drove around this morning for a bit and no 4wd light yet... which is a good sign so far. Fingers crossed.

Hows your idle? Steady at 650 rpm?

Big day today.

Headed out to AM Performance, who are planning to start producing M35 exhaust systems. Donated my car as the development car, should be getting underway in the next couple of weeks.

Then headed around to my dad's workshop and put the car on the hoist for a service. Was very interesting, gearbox and engine took no where near as much oil was I was expecting even though they were drained.

Have found a couple of things that need fixing through. Rear disks need machining and rear pads need replacing, and need a catch can. Couldn't find any reason for the weird noise that I get occasionally when I lift off, so sounds like new blow off valve too...

And after all that, I forgot to put on the intake spacer I got from Craig! :domokun:

Edit: And no bloody LSD!

Edited by bigkevracer

Big day today.

Headed out to AM Performance, who are planning to start producing M35 exhaust systems. Donated my car as the development car, should be getting underway in the next couple of weeks.

Then headed around to my dad's workshop and put the car on the hoist for a service. Was very interesting, gearbox and engine took no where near as much oil was I was expecting even though they were drained.

Have found a couple of things that need fixing through. Rear disks need machining and rear pads need replacing, and need a catch can. Couldn't find any reason for the weird noise that I get occasionally when I lift off, so sounds like new blow off valve too...

And after all that, I forgot to put on the intake spacer I got from Craig! :domokun:

Edit: And no bloody LSD!

lol....one day you'll get it done!!!!

I thought you had an AR-X for some reason!

removed front bar and rewired the botton foggies in my aero bar back together as they were cut for compliance reasons. for such a simple job took me about 1.5 hrs inc removing and reinstalling front bar.

do you reckon the little "plug" in line with the OBD port maybe eff'd?

anyway attacked my belts today. pulled em off Cleaned off all the belt grip shit with some degreaser and a scrubbing brush! put new belts on, the squealing seems to have stopped.. hopefully stays stopped

Thanks scott for ya help!

do you have anymore of these Craig ???

I don't but i know someone who does if you interested.....I'll have to check and see if I have a spare Gasket.

PM me for further detail

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Pete knows these cars well, he does my car too, if he was concerned about the traction arm length for your use he would have said so. Do you have adjustable bushes in that arm, maybe he got enough adjustment there (or maybe the bump steer was not material for your use of the car)
    • Hmm. Yes. I should have been clearer. 1000s for Haltech, for extra headroom. 725s for Nistune. You might even be OK with 640s, but if the possible power ends up much more than 300 rwkW you will run out of headroom on the 640s. That would probably be OK and a signal to not push it to that sort of power with Nistune anyway. At that level you probably do want to be thinking about engine protection functions. Oh, and all of that presumes 98 only, not E85. Well....the 1000s would allow you to run E85 at ~300rwkW territory, again, maybe sort of running out of headroom. Hard to tell with E85 - depends on the tuner as to how rich they like to set it up.
    • Yes.  The only scenario I can imagine when the answer isn't yes, is if you drive like there is highway patrol behind you at all times.  If your car currently runs, enjoy it and keep saving. Better costs more, keep saving until you can budget the better ECU. It's worth it.  Nope. Plenty of us making >300kw on unopened motors. Mine is unopened and makes about 350kw if I turn everything up, its fine (lots of caveats here, how the car will be used/abused, how long you expect the engine to last between rebuilds, how has the engine been maintained prior to coming into your ownership, etc etc).   
    • Sorry just wanting to clarify, at this power goal, which should I be going? Also, More info regarding suspension, the rear upper camber arms were used to get the camber back to i believe around -0.5 ~ -1 degree (@ Road and Race in Rydalmere), I forgot the exact figure, but ALOT less camber than what it came originally which was like -2.5degrees. Are the traction arms still recommended? The bilsteins from SydneyKid, they've got 400lb/in fronts & 275/in in the rear, revalved to his specs. Intercooler, I'm just having a look at some on Rakuten.jp and some other japanese sites. Might get something from back there, GReddy, Blitz or HPI, all crossflow. Looking at roughly $450-$500 AUD + shipping... Theres not many choices except that chinese branded Justjap unless you go for blitz return flow. Yeah, only downside with Haltech is the price ahhaha, so expensive, and with all the sensors if I go that route... $$$$$ yeesh. Are headstuds/gaskets needed for <300akw?
    • Haltech fanboi reporting in. Buy the Haltech! 
×
×
  • Create New...