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yeah where the oil filter adaptor bolts to the motor? has oil lines coming out of it to go to the turbo.

if water goes in there, i dont think its to cool the oil. the oil is generally cooler than water. maybe its to warm the oil up faster?

yeah where the oil filter adaptor bolts to the motor? has oil lines coming out of it to go to the turbo.

if water goes in there, i dont think its to cool the oil. the oil is generally cooler than water. maybe its to warm the oil up faster?

perhaps..

although the oil line for the turbo comes straight from the oil sump. lol

anyway i think the o-rings shit itself.

The water jacket heats the oil quickly up to operating temps, specifically the oil being pumped around the engine. It just means you can get on the gas quicker but is still takes twice the time generally to heat the oil. After this point its just backup cooling if the oil ever heats to over 90 degrees. There is a special orange oring behind the water block thats leaking on Aarons, he could have just siliconed it up but I suggested a new seal, mainly because I don't like silicone in the oil pathways if you can help it.

but its primary job is to heat the oil. and IF the oil overheats, then it will cool it. assuming your primary cooling system is doing its job well :P

ok you've lost me.. whats the primary cooling system??

the radiator and fan(s)

the oil lubricates the engine, but it does store heat too

Mmm, I think oil cools an engine more than most people think. I had a V8 when I was a lad that had a chronic overheating problem (one hard acceleration run would have it steaming) so I put an oil cooler on the engine. In winter I had to tape cardboard to the front otherwise the needle wouldn't move off cold & the heater wouldn't work lol. I reckon I could've run it without water, with just the oil cooler doing the job.

The proper term would be a heat exchanger just like the one in radiator for the auto trans fluid ...which also serves to bring the auto trans up to operating temp more quickly but also has some cooling function if the auto trans fluid gets too hot.

Finally removed the standard intake today. Bottom nut caused me all sorts of grief (typical for me unfortunately) by getting all round. Had to grind a slot in it using a Dremel with a flexible shaft to get up in there. A good hit with a hammer & screwdriver had it off in the end. I think I've spent more money on buying tools to remove the nut then I have on the materials to build the entire intake lol.

Finally removed the standard intake today. Bottom nut caused me all sorts of grief (typical for me unfortunately) by getting all round. Had to grind a slot in it using a Dremel with a flexible shaft to get up in there. A good hit with a hammer & screwdriver had it off in the end. I think I've spent more money on buying tools to remove the nut then I have on the materials to build the entire intake lol.

Its a pain in the arse to get up under there. Did you snap the stud off in the end?

Its a pain in the arse to get up under there. Did you snap the stud off in the end?

No, the stud is intact & undamaged. Probably more from good luck than a well implemented plan LOL. I just ground a slot/vee most of the way through one face. The hammer/screwdriver combo spread the nut enough to loosen it & it came off without the use of tools.

However, the sexy & well engineered funnel & flange you made for me looks like it is too long to get any sort of bend before hitting the cross member. I'm going to hunt for some tighter bends (silicon & aluminium) tomorrow & have a rethink. I may have to make up something closer to what you've been doing all along.

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