Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello mates,

I am planning on buying a CF vented hood to reduce some weight but not sure about it. Is it save to drive in the rain with an opening like that? It looks like the water will just poor down on the belts and alternator. My car is daily driven and i dont have a garage to park it in.

I did a search but couldnt find anything, if anyone can point me in the right direction.

Thanks.

  • Nope 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/348707-vented-hood-in-the-rain/
Share on other sites

water also comes up from underneith... and no problems there?

Is that weight saving really going to make your 'street' car any faster... 60km/h is still 60km/h.

You'd be better spending that money of a gym membership and losing weight that way (not saying your a chubsy whubsy... just that people can weigh between 70 to 120kg's)

  • Nope 2

As long as the vents were not directly above the exhaust manifold and intake filters that it shouldn't be too much issue,

There are quite a few manufacturers that include bonnet vents from factory and some of these like the Toyota Celica vent their directly above the turbo and alternator without affecting the vehicles reliability.

if the Bearings on your alternator, power steering, and air-conditioning were subjected to lot of water you may find they would wear quicker but I doubt it's going to be that obvious.

Also watch out for water that gets into the valley where the coils are as the plugs will rust and the moisture will work its way into the boots and cause a missfire, it happened to me.

Thanks everyone for the honest replies, i was just a bit concern and didnt want to ruin my engine which i rebuilt. My plan to reduce weight for this "street" car is for when i'm ready with my new setup i can head up to the drag strips and have some fun there.

And to Mr Barraspalding, thanks for caring about my weight, but i already have a gym membership pass and i go there 4 times a week. Next time if you care so much why not ask first instead of being an ass...

water also comes up from underneith... and no problems there?

Is that weight saving really going to make your 'street' car any faster... 60km/h is still 60km/h.

You'd be better spending that money of a gym membership and losing weight that way (not saying your a chubsy whubsy... just that people can weigh between 70 to 120kg's)

  • Nope 1

I've had 3 different types of vented bonnets the 1st was good had the one vent which was centered over the top of the gap between the radiator and front of the engine. I never had any issues with water with this one.

DSCN0177.jpg">

I then changed to a CF Z-Tune style one and the quality was a bit average and had it fitted to the car for a day or two in the panel shop. After the car was outside and in the rain for a little there was water in the engine bay even with the 'tray' fitted (when i opened the bonnet the water collected in the tray spilt in the engine bay anyways)

I then got the Nismo carbon R Tune one which has the rain channels and no water gets into the bay at all as long as you dont point the hose directly in there. The quality of this is unreal..

IMG_2649.jpg"

This is only my expirence with them and im sure there are others who have never had any dramas with any vented bonnet. But living up here in Mackay the rain can be quite tropical at times coming in thick and fast lol..:D

Cheers

Kingy

  • Like 1

same experience as king.

if you can find one with the venting forward of the valley cover (coil and spark cover) you will be fine.

but if the venting is behind the cover you will get water in there when its raining and the car is stationary, while its moving you

will be fine.

The water falls between the engine and the radiator on this one.

g-force0011.jpg

water falls on front of the cover on this one while the car is stationary.

18072010135_clear.jpg

Edit...both of those are 3rd of the weight of the oem bonnet.

I've had 3 different types of vented bonnets the 1st was good had the one vent which was centered over the top of the gap between the radiator and front of the engine. I never had any issues with water with this one.

DSCN0177.jpg">

I then changed to a CF Z-Tune style one and the quality was a bit average and had it fitted to the car for a day or two in the panel shop. After the car was outside and in the rain for a little there was water in the engine bay even with the 'tray' fitted (when i opened the bonnet the water collected in the tray spilt in the engine bay anyways)

I then got the Nismo carbon R Tune one which has the rain channels and no water gets into the bay at all as long as you dont point the hose directly in there. The quality of this is unreal..

IMG_2649.jpg"

This is only my expirence with them and im sure there are others who have never had any dramas with any vented bonnet. But living up here in Mackay the rain can be quite tropical at times coming in thick and fast lol..:D

Cheers

Kingy

If don't mind me asking, where did you get the z tune style from and how much did the r tune set you back? :D

Thanks!!

they dont make a 33 GT-R one at Nismo

i run the genuine R Tune Nismo Omori bonnet on the 34. It does as stated have rain channels under the bonnet and is Dry Carbon

The best one for the 33 is the design by Top Secret imo, it works alot better, than the copies of the z tune for the "33"

  • 5 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update: Tunehouse looked into the problem and identified a wiring issue between the camera unit and the connector. They managed to get it working , but did warn me at some point it will stop working again. From their perspective it is unserviceable and will need replacement. They did some research and found that the new replacement camera would be Approx $1400 supply only (their fitting cost would be $190) . They did provide the part number (28442-JL05B) and a quick google of the part number shows that these are rather expensive brand new (seemingly no longer in manufacture) for the places that still have them in stock, with the used option potentially presenting  the same issue down the track at some unknown point. They are happy for me to supply the part so that they can fit it. Decisions, decisions... I can definitely recommend Tunehouse (thankyou Vee37!). Cost for the diagnosis was as quoted  ($190) , car was ready on time and communication was top notch. Their workshop is super clean and modern, and there was plenty of car candy parked out the front on the day I went.   Would definitely go back.   
    • to fix the voltage drop issue I swapped out the old 150amp alternator which turns out is a brand known for having issues and replaced it with the black 180amp alternator beside it 
    • For anyone interested, the Way Back Machine has that Japanese website archived with pictures, etc: https://web.archive.org/web/20051023225805fw_/http://www.a31cefiro.com/air_con.htm "Simply swapping the wiring of the harness will not allow it to function properly. For the outdoor air sensor and sunlight sensor, disconnect the wiring connected to CN1-11 of the air conditioning harness from the harness and connect the sensor side wiring to earth. For the indoor air sensor, disconnect the wiring connected to CN2-3 of the air conditioning harness from the harness and connect the sensor side wiring to earth. The connector PIN numbers listed here are the genuine A31 PIN numbers. To avoid incorrect wiring, check with a tester before wiring. Also, disconnect the wiring in a location close to the sensor. The disconnected harness side wiring will not be used, so be sure to insulate it." Wish someone sold a conversion harness to just plug-and-play a Kouki 180sx digital climate control into C33/A31. I'm decent with wiring but feeling kinda lazy about taking this on. Edit: Did some more digging and found a helpful Minkara blog post about the conversion as well: https://minkara.carview.co.jp/userid/1831116/car/1360568/2284209/note.aspx "After installation is complete or the battery is replaced, you need to go into self-diagnosis mode and set the internal air recirculation. The way to do it is to "hold OFF with the key on for more than 5 seconds, set the number to 5, then press 卍→C." ↑↑↑It probably won't make sense unless you actually try it (・∀・)." Lol wtf
    • Maybe SAUNSW could see howany members would do a motorkhana day if Schofield's is still available for a reasonable price...
    • Skip the concrete, we just need to smooth a field. Mark knows how to drive a grader Duncan   I reckon 100x100 flat area for skid pan style, and then some sort tracks for rally... Duncan's already got a rally car on the premises to...
×
×
  • Create New...