Got A Gtr 34 Vspec Ii

[Sunkist]

Hi Guys,

If I'm posting in the incorrect area or if theres already a thread please link me. Being a Stagea owner i dont know where to look n search didnt help me.

My Girlfriends brother has just purchased a GTR34 Genuine VSpec II with about 50?00kms on the clock. previously owned by some rich business owner in Aus aswell..

He picked up the car yesterday.

I drove it, feels like a brand new car, no miss no lump no odd spots. Perfect. very good buy.

I want to know what type of things need to be done when you purchase one, ie maintanence.

General Service was (apparently) done 2 weeks ago.

What type of oils are recomended for;

-engine

-diff

-trans

-hicas

-atteza

is there anything else he should be worrying about?

Your help is much appreciated. I'm forcing him to get on the forum tonight so he can have an input as well.

Thanks People!

[ylwgtr2]

hi there....gearbox and transfer case use castrol transmax z,atessa dexron ATF,rear diff lsd diff oil,front regular diff oil and engine oil is personal pref

[Sunkist]

what about thickness of engine oil

300V 100% 10w40 sound right, right?

[GTR-N1]

^ ^ ^ as above... plus...

Has the 40,000km service been done in full?

Official NISSAN Owner's Manual says...

* Engine oil replaced every 5000km or 6 months whichever comes first

* Oil Filter replace every 10,000km interval

* Drive Belts inspect at 40,000 80,000 100,000km

* Engine antifreeze (ethylene glycol based) replace at 40,000 80,000 100,000km

* Cooling System inspect every 20,000km interval

* Air Cleaner Filter (viscous paper type) replace at 40,000 80,000 100,000km

* Intake and Exhaust Valve Clearance inspect if valve noise increases

* Fuel Lines inspect every 40,000 interval

* Fuel Filter replace every 40,000 interval (but every 20,000km with frequent track use)

* Spark Plugs (platiunum-tipped) replace at 100,000km intervals

* Heated Oxygen Sensor (exhaust gas sensor) inspect at 40,000 80,000 100,000km

* EVAP Vapour Lines inspect at 40,000 80,000 100,000km

* Timing Belt replace at 100,000km intervals

* Brake and Clutch Fluids inspect every 10,000km interval

* Brake Fluid replace at 40,000 80,000 100,000km

* Brake Booster Vacuum Hoses, Connections & Check Valve inspect at 40,000 80,000 100,000km

* Power Steering Fluid and Lines inspect for levels and leaks every 10,000km interval

* Brake, Clutch and Exhaust Systems inspect every 10,000km interval

* Manual Transmission Gear Oil inspect for levels and leaks every 10,000km

* Differential Gear Oil inspect every 10,000km (every 5,000km if used on track)

* Transfer Fluid replace at 40,000 80,000 100,000km and inspect at 10,000km intervals

* Steering Gear & Linkage, Axle & Suspension Parts, Propeller Shafts & Drive Shafts inspect at 20,000km intervals (every 10,000km if on track)

* Wheel Alignment, Wheel Balance, Wheel Rotation inspect at 20,000km intervals

* Brake Pads, Rotors, Lines inspect at 10,000km intervals (every 5,000km if on track)

* Locks, Hinges, Bonnet Latch lubricate at 10,000km intervals

* Seat Belts, Buckles, Retractors, Anchors & Adjuster inspect at 20,000km intervals

* Foot Brake, Parking Brake & Clutch (for free play, stroke & operation) inspect at 10,000km intervals

* Ventilation Air Filter replace at 20,000km intervals

* Air Bag Systems inspect after 10 years and then at 2 year intervals

[Sunkist]

^ ^ ^ as above... plus...

Has the 40,000km service been done in full?

Official NISSAN Owner's Manual says...

* Engine oil replaced every 5000km or 6 months whichever comes first

* Oil Filter replace every 10,000km interval

* Drive Belts inspect at 40,000 80,000 100,000km

* Engine antifreeze (ethylene glycol based) replace at 40,000 80,000 100,000km

* Cooling System inspect every 20,000km interval

* Air Cleaner Filter (viscous paper type) replace at 40,000 80,000 100,000km

* Intake and Exhaust Valve Clearance inspect if valve noise increases

* Fuel Lines inspect every 40,000 interval

* Fuel Filter replace every 40,000 interval (but every 20,000km with frequent track use)

* Spark Plugs (platiunum-tipped) replace at 100,000km intervals

* Heated Oxygen Sensor (exhaust gas sensor) inspect at 40,000 80,000 100,000km

* EVAP Vapour Lines inspect at 40,000 80,000 100,000km

* Timing Belt replace at 100,000km intervals

* Brake and Clutch Fluids inspect every 10,000km interval

* Brake Fluid replace at 40,000 80,000 100,000km

* Brake Booster Vacuum Hoses, Connections & Check Valve inspect at 40,000 80,000 100,000km

* Power Steering Fluid and Lines inspect for levels and leaks every 10,000km interval

* Brake, Clutch and Exhaust Systems inspect every 10,000km interval

* Manual Transmission Gear Oil inspect for levels and leaks every 10,000km

* Differential Gear Oil inspect every 10,000km (every 5,000km if used on track)

* Transfer Fluid replace at 40,000 80,000 100,000km and inspect at 10,000km intervals

* Steering Gear & Linkage, Axle & Suspension Parts, Propeller Shafts & Drive Shafts inspect at 20,000km intervals (every 10,000km if on track)

* Wheel Alignment, Wheel Balance, Wheel Rotation inspect at 20,000km intervals

* Brake Pads, Rotors, Lines inspect at 10,000km intervals (every 5,000km if on track)

* Locks, Hinges, Bonnet Latch lubricate at 10,000km intervals

* Seat Belts, Buckles, Retractors, Anchors & Adjuster inspect at 20,000km intervals

* Foot Brake, Parking Brake & Clutch (for free play, stroke & operation) inspect at 10,000km intervals

* Ventilation Air Filter replace at 20,000km intervals

* Air Bag Systems inspect after 10 years and then at 2 year intervals

Thanks a million mate!

Well I can guarntee the oil was changed as theres a new ryco filter on it. not sure whats in there though. Hoping 300v, the way he'll thrash it.

belts are definitely done as theres absolutely no wear n tear on it.brake fluid powersteering looks clean to me. Sparkies i wouldnt know, I'de have to get into it to check.

no leaks in the trans or hicas or atteza. but one think i noticed for the HICAS bottle in the boot is that the fluid is two different colours. ie maybe nulon/matic j would this be a problem as the nulon was a direct replacement? the HICAS light did come on yesterday but after turning it off and back on it dissapered.

Had a look and theres quite abit of meat for the Brembo's.. the disc's look like theyve been machines or still new(theres no lips) [these brembo's are bitey as!]

to check some of the other stuff i want to get under the car like the O2 sensor etc..

Need to check the air filter, fiddly box though. recomend oiled or not? I know oiled can F with the AFM which might cause limp.

a question with the standard boost though. I always thought they would run an 10-11psi at max. this one has the Boost controller diconnected as back to stock, and is running 1.1bar max. and thats warmish weather aswell. I've heard stock turbo's should NEVER be pushed more than 1.2bar. The ECU has been changed, not sure of the brand I havent checked. but according to the seller its doing 330kw at the fly.

for cooling options what should i be looking at ie trans oil, engine oil, or is the stock stuff good? im trying to get him to do it all soon as he wont be driving it until he's off his P's(Dont ask)

thanks people.

[Dumpe]

Any pictures

[Chris Rogers]

p plater + Vspec2 - hope he's got common sense.

[Sunkist]

lol yeh hes not driving it much, only locally in his area to get the feel of it. hope he doesnt get pulled over though..

I took this pic today of our cars..its the only pic i have.. hes done well for a well maintained car

[Ten Four]

P plates and a VSpec II...

Cops aren't going to leave him alone...

GL.

[Dumpe]

Sounds like a bargain....how much did he get it for...

[Sunkist]

57k. they knew the owner i think. hes got a lof book of services every 5000km, but all the original exhausts n parts that have been upgraded!

[Sunkist]

whats the stock power of a GTR 34 vspe ii. does anyone know?

also whats the standard boost it should be running.

[Sunkist]

anyone?

[paulR32gtr]

What paint code is it Aaron?

The Vspec 2's still have the ceramic turbos yeah? I think stock boost would be around the 10psi mark.

As for power standard - they were sold under the 206kw gentlemans agreement but at the engine could be around the 230kw mark. Unleash the boost and the story changes very quickly

[Sunkist]

Paint Code?

Well from my own knowledge I think it was only the NUR Gtr's that were a steel wheel BB turbo. So i do believe this *should* be ceramic backed. with a Disconnected Boost controller, the boost was hitting a peak pressure of 1.1bar (15~ psi) Are the in car gages acurate? I'm told they are

ok well i think my questions now changed,

with just and ECU "PowerFC" thats installed, what type of power can be rached based on stock everything?

Thanks heaps mate

[pistol-pete]

stock boost on the 34s is tad over 12psi. stock power would be around the 180wkw mark

[Sunkist]

so theres basically no performance difference between the Vspec ii and Normal GTR 34, under the gentlemans agreement.

[paulR32gtr]

Paint Code?

Yeah sorry I am trying to pick paint at the moment - the R34's came in a few different silvers (see here). Kinda looks like sparkling silver to me - it would have the paint code in the engine bay on the plate with the vin / engine no etc.

ok well i think my questions now changed,

with just and ECU "PowerFC" thats installed, what type of power can be rached based on stock everything?

I personally wouldn't push the ceramic turbos over 12psi but thats me. Many have ran them at around 14psi reliably but then again others have not - and when they shatter they can take the engine with them. I would prefer to spend $3k up front on some steel wheel turbos for insurance, rather than $15k on an engine + turbos after disaster.

I am not sure how the R34's are tuned from factory, but the difference going to power FC on my R32 was unbelievable. It netted probably an extra 20rwkw just from trimming the fuel. The stock R32 ECU had the AFR's at around 10:1 - very rich. After the change fuel consumption around town also dropped dramatically - like from 250km per tank to 350-450km.

At a guess stock standard + well tuned power fc, and boost at 12psi I would think peak around 200rwkw. Add some steel turbos @ 16/17psi, maybe a nismo fuel pump for insurance and a decent exhaust and you will start getting up to the 300rwkw mark.

[Sunkist]

ok well like i said, for some reason its reading 1.1bar. without a EBC/BC

the only thing i can think of is if the previous owner had replaced em with Nismo turbos off the NUR. they look stock. but the actuators run at 14psi

im gonna plug my informeter into it, and see what comes out of that. Atleast im certain its figures will be 100% spot on. pain in the ass though.

I'll find out the paint code when im fiddling with it tonight n let you know. I'm also wondering if I should get the VIN fasted to find out its authenticiy of being a vspec ii

[paulR32gtr]

Yeah its quite easy to up them to 14-15psi. From factory there is a brass restrictor inside one of the hoses to the standard boost control solenoid. It is designated by a yellow or white stripe on the hose. Removing this will allow boost to get up above 14psi - the last owner may have done this.

Standard R34 ceramic's should have a compressor cover with 0.53 a/r stamped on it. N1's will be 0.6 or 0.42.