Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have NO idea what is causing this sound. I made a thread about it a while ago on my old car about a weird squeel at certain rpm. My new car didn't do it..... Until I swapped off the atmo BOV for the standard nissan BOV the f**king sound came back! Its like a EEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE sound which will just maintain it self if I can locate the RPM its produced at. So what I mean, if the sound occurs at 2000rpm, the sound will finish as soon as I get to 2100 rpm. but if I hold 2000rpm it will keep going until i let go or go a little faster.

What the hell is it? Is it a failing BOV? Is it a leak?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/348947-bov-sound/
Share on other sites

Unlikely to be the BOV. The BOV would only fail at a certain pressure if it were faulty, not an RPM. Because of this, you would be able to replicate the sound at a certain throttle point for any given RPM (not guaranteed).

I'd be thinking check your belts.

Does it make the sound at 2000rpm when the car isn't moving in neutral? If so, pop the bonnet and rev the engine by manually opening the throttle body with your hand. Find the point where it makes the sound, and try to work out where it's coming from.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/348947-bov-sound/#findComment-5608119
Share on other sites

Only when in gear and only if I hold certain pressure. If I'm rolling down a hill a 2krpm it wont make the sound, but if I pushing up a hill at 2krpm it will make the sound. It is only if there is pressure. If I remove the BOV and fit my atmo BOV back on, the sound is gone. It made exactly the same sound in a completely different car(the exact same BOV).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/348947-bov-sound/#findComment-5608227
Share on other sites

^ if blocking it doesnt get rid of the sound, also take a a look at the gaskets and studs around the exhaust manifold and turbo area. I had a couple of broken studs and a chunk of exh manifold gasket missing. Made a real high pitched squeal all the way to redline when on boost. drove me fkn insane...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/348947-bov-sound/#findComment-5608967
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wish I had this advice when I did my pump. It went in and out 3 or 4 times, and on the last time it snapped.
    • Tried them, they leaked. I also foolishly bought some random rubber ones that leaked too.  Genuine and not looked back.    As always though sample size of one, and I could have made a mistake installing them. 
    • Technically still manual process to set it first time though
    • Shit job but not hard. I'd use a piece of wood to knock the plastic lid open to avoid damaging it, use a vacuum to clean up the fuel sender lid also so crap doesn't fall in. I'd probably do pump and filter at the same time since you're already in there, I reused my OEM sock after a quick clean since the one provided wasn't long enough. Could also hardwire your pump if you feel inclined.
    • Supercheap auto sell this: https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/pat-plusquip-fuel-tank-lock-ring-tool---universal-kit/SPO3564082.html I own this and if you HAVE PATIENCE you can remove it without snapping lines and generally being incredibly angry, then said at doing this job. Sadly I've removed the pump about 75,000 times over the years. I don't know if you're a large lad or a smaller lad but my advice to you as someone who is 185cm is if you are my height or smaller, is to sit in the boot and take your time. Yes you can put the seal on. The seal goes over the white thing/lid (you will see how it 'slots' in) then the whole assembly presses into the tank. then you screw the lock ring on. I spent so much time doing things the wrong way by trying to mount the seal into the tank first, then putting the white fuel hat on in the space provided. Put it together first then it'll all go in. But seriously be careful about removing the hoses AND where the removal tool is moving relative to the plastic pipes coming out of the lid when you've removed it. IT IS BRITTLE So brittle in fact I have two spare lids, and would recommend buying a spare and having it handy before attempting to do this. May as well throw https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD in the tank as well, as this uses all stock plugs and such. You may need to/strongly recommend you re-use your OEM fuel sock or use the one supplied with a length of hose so it sits at the stock height.
×
×
  • Create New...