Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all, im new to sau but have heard very good things about it. Im soon to be off my green P's and on to an open license. I have around 20grand to spend on a skyline and i was after some advice on which varient to buy, ive heard GTR's are the best but older examples are expensive to run and to repair, also the newer GTR's are well above my price range lol, I really like the R-34 and R-33's shape but have heard mixed opinions on the RB20 and RB25DET, im looking for a streetable car i can slowly do more mods on, eg fmic, exhaust, larger turbo, ecu, injectors etc... the short term goal is to have around 300kw atw on 98 pump fuel. Later on I'd like to bump that figure up to 500-600kw atw. obviously alot of time money and work will be needed to achieve this, I would really appreciate any advice on what variant to buy and, which engine would be most suited for those power figures. The car must be able to be rego'd and road worthied, it will see the track and drag strip a few times a year, i know im asking alot here and im not sure if this can be done, id love to have a 10-11 second street car that can hold its own on the track and be a daily driver. Thanks heaps in advance

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/348994-help-choosing-skyline/
Share on other sites

not gonna be legal though. but since you're in queensland, actually 20grand should be able to get you a nice 33R, just shop around slowly, but keep some cash in hand for insurance and emergency repairs, these are old cars now.

Get out of this forum buddy, if you intend on hitting over 200rwkw, you're going to damage the earth with pollution. So piss off. I hope you get EPA'd and defected for what you plan on doing. People like you are pathetic.

  • Nope 1
Get out of this forum buddy, if you intend on hitting over 200rwkw, you're going to damage the earth with pollution. So piss off. I hope you get EPA'd and defected for what you plan on doing. People like you are pathetic. Flame on, baby34. I will be taking bets soon as to how quickly you get banned for unsuitable behaviour.

To Tritty28 good luck and for 500-600 atwkw go the RB26TT but stroker kit to 2.8 then all other supporting mods needed + some big a*s turbos. You may need about $70k+ for the engine build alone, at least thats until e85 becomes the norm but even then.....

EDIT: Go the R33 boat, already modded of course.

Edited by Shazza24

As everyone said, get something thats reliable and work done. Save you the time and money that way. 33 GTRs would be the best bang for bucks since 34s are still a lil pricey. For 300kw on a GTR, you can do it without a mod plate and still be "legal" to Queensland cops but anything more serious, you will more than likely need a mod plate.

baby34 is a Victoria Club member...?

  • 3 weeks later...

Get out of this forum buddy, if you intend on hitting over 200rwkw, you're going to damage the earth with pollution. So piss off. I hope you get EPA'd and defected for what you plan on doing. People like you are pathetic.

I think you should turn the tyres (185's) on your hectic vn and piss off out of here deadbeat it's idiots like you that punch there cats out and get away with it!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Don't do it if your gearbox box has already having syncro issues. The short hifter will put a greater load on them. If you must I remember Nismo did a shorter shifter, with the top part being physically shorter and the part that went into the gearbox was the same as stock. In saying that I've had a C's short shifter (I think) in mine for many years, which was given to me as the previous owner was not sympathetic to the gearbox. Thus forwarned I was careful and had to modify my normal changing style. You have to be super accurate with your clutch and shifts
    • Well, after a week of daily driving and having to crawl out between the wheel and the side intrusion bars. I got myself a quick release setup. I went with an NRG short hub and Quick Release with some cute heart cutouts on the pull tabs. Nice and matchy matchy with the rest of the interior accents I have going on.  The only downside is the total stack height even with the short adapter is longer than the old HKB boss kit. Luckily I had some adjustment left on the column so move the wheel away.
    • stock shifter with new bushes, springs and cup will improve it. Gktech do all the bits. The opinion as the years have gone on is the redline is not great in old gearboxes.
    • Hi all   what short shifter do you use on your skykine r34?   my synchronous does have a problem and i was getting huge delay and grinding sound between 2nd and 3rd, did put shockproof red heavy stuff and it is great now/ no issues   would in your view short shifter screw this up?   people seems to suggest/ use cube short shifter and there is standard and premium. Seen review of premium as much better and less play. Thoughts?
    • Yeah, there's a bit of a density and friability difference between pebbles and any of those other things. Silicone will definitely float in oil and so will be mobile enough to move around. Although, again, if it is upstream of the filter it really shouldn't go any further. I would only ever worry about silicone when it is in places downstream of the filter. Upstream of the pickup is a whole 'nother matter. We've all seen what that does. I have seen the most abominable crap settled out in industrial gearboxes, trunnion lube systems and the like, without any sign that any of it has touched anything in the machine. Just chilling in the bottom, waiting for the inevitable operator error that causes the whole machine to need to be dismantled for repairs.
×
×
  • Create New...