Rb25 Build

[Robi33]

Hey guys,

Well, I've decided that this year I'm going to stop 'talking' about doing something to my R33 and actually 'do' something to it... So first is first, the engine. I've been told, but I'm not 100% positive that it would work...

The plan so far is...

40 thou oversized pistons

'H' Beam rods

R33 RB26 crankshaft

JUN oil pump

New Water pump

Bigger oil sump

Garrett GT35/40

Front-Facing plenium

Bigger throttle body

Headwork to suit with decent size cams.

That's the basics so far... I've been told and read that this plan should work, however I've also been told and read online that the RB26 crank doesn't fit. Any help would be awesome. I'm not after Horsepower Hero status, I just want a gutsy road car I can have fun on the track with.

Thanks.

[75coupe]

what about just do the turbo, ECU, injectors, fuel pump, wait for the engine to break and then rebuild???

I wouldnt worry about using a 26 crank, if your not after horsepower hero status...

Why do you want a bigger throttle body?

bigger oil sump, do you have an oil cooler as yet?

[75coupe]

what are your current mods???

[Aberax]

Hey guys,

Well, I've decided that this year I'm going to stop 'talking' about doing something to my R33 and actually 'do' something to it... So first is first, the engine. I've been told, but I'm not 100% positive that it would work...

The plan so far is...

40 thou oversized pistons

'H' Beam rods

R33 RB26 crankshaft

JUN oil pump - Check out the Nitto Oil Pump, cheaper and flows the same or better then the Jun, and it's Australian.

New Water pump

Bigger oil sump

Garrett GT35/40

Front-Facing plenium

Bigger throttle body

Headwork to suit with decent size cams.

That's the basics so far... I've been told and read that this plan should work, however I've also been told and read online that the RB26 crank doesn't fit. Any help would be awesome. I'm not after Horsepower Hero status, I just want a gutsy road car I can have fun on the track with.

Thanks.

Yes it does fit, I am going down the same path later this year. I have a R34 GTR crank, and I need to buy RB26 pistons (going 20 thou, 86.5mm) and some forged con rods. The RB25 and RB26 blocks are very similar, the major difference is the stroke of the RB26 over the RB25.

[Robi33]

At the moment the only things the ol'girl has is a 3 inch exhaust from the cat-back, boost 'T', coilovers and mags... I only put the coilovers and mags on it. I'm buying a seperate engine and everything I need in the next few months. I just want a safe-going, gutsy engine.

Thanks for the information, Aberax. Is there anything specific I need to do to make it all work out, crank wise?

[hypergear]

remember to recondition your engine head with stronger valve springs. Very important for high powered Rb25det.

[R31Nismoid]

Only important if you need them - plenty have not required them for over 350rwkw.

Rob - what is the budget/plan/use of the car etc?

A 3540 isn't the best choice for a street car in all honesty, no do you need to spend the extra on rods etc.

The parts list is a bit all over the place. Lots of stuff you need isn't on there, lots of stuff you don't need is...

[lachlanw]

2.6 and 2.5 blocks are the same . thats why rb25det blocks have 2 oil feed lugs cast into them

rb26 has longer stroke and lower piston crown height

so if your using a 26 crank you need pistons for a 26

con rods are same dimesion

[89CAL]

look at getting a Garrett GTX3076, should be a much nicer turbo then the 35/40

what are your power goals? you change your mind more then me

[Robi33]

The plan is to have a nice cruiser that I can go to the track and thrash around without worrying a lot about something major to go faulty. That's why I want to strengthen as much as I can. I plan on working the heads and having stronger valves and springs too. 35/40 just seemed to be a good choice for the track/strip but I'm open for suggestions.

[Robi33]

I'm not worried about budget... I refuse to go E-Bay spec. I want to buy a recon-25 and do all the work on it in the shed while I drive the car around still.

[89CAL]

Rob, Check these links out

SAU Topic - Garrett GTX Turbos

Garrett Website - GTX3076

There relatively new but look like a good thing. I just think you will be disapointed with the 35/40 in comparison to something like these. But hey its up to you.

If your not doing anything tomorrow give me a txt

[bigmikespec]

The results from the GTX so far have not proved they are better at all... More power but more lag; who would have thought?!

Go with what is proven to work you don't need expensive fancy parts to go fast.

[89CAL]

haha well there you go. Oh well, serves me right for not doing enough research lol

[DR 32R]

I think your parts list is good, you need rb26 pistons with the rb26 crank. I would get premium valve springs supertec/tomei.The nitto pump is fine. Probably better than the Jun.

Edited January 5, 2011 by WHITE gtt

[r33cruiser]

Only important if you need them - plenty have not required them for over 350rwkw.

Rob - what is the budget/plan/use of the car etc?

A 3540 isn't the best choice for a street car in all honesty, no do you need to spend the extra on rods etc.

The parts list is a bit all over the place. Lots of stuff you need isn't on there, lots of stuff you don't need is...

This! What is your budget? Your looking at an easy 10-15k plus the headwork and parts for the head.

So let's say 20k-ish plus because you have to buy all the parts including the turbo. Still keen?

Edited January 6, 2011 by r33cruiser

[Aberax]

At the moment the only things the ol'girl has is a 3 inch exhaust from the cat-back, boost 'T', coilovers and mags... I only put the coilovers and mags on it. I'm buying a seperate engine and everything I need in the next few months. I just want a safe-going, gutsy engine.

Thanks for the information, Aberax. Is there anything specific I need to do to make it all work out, crank wise?

Have everything machined, cleaned and balanced correctly. Have your block decked, bored, honed, also have the main tunnel machined, good bearings ACL (I am going 20 Thou RB25 ACL Bearings), acid dipped. Get the Crank grub-screwed, cleaned and balanced along with your conrods and pistons (as they all are apart of the rotating mass). Make sure the clearances for rings, piston to bore are within tolerances, bearing crush is within aswell.

Crank, depending on how big the oil drive is, you may want to get a oil collar installed too. Also look into doing some oil control too.

A engine build is never really "cheap", I have done a rough calculation for my build, parts alone are around the $10k mark, then machine shop cost on top.

[Robi33]

Money isn't a problem for me at all. The Fiance and I have an agreement that we're not getting married until my car is done... So she is helping me out as much as she can too, haha.

Thanks guys, this means a lot. I'll make sure I keep updating when I start working on it. Keep you guys in-check with the progress.

[89CAL]

How did you manage to work that plan out lol

Hope she doesn't want to be married for another few years

[r33cruiser]

Money isn't a problem for me at all. The Fiance and I have an agreement that we're not getting married until my car is done... So she is helping me out as much as she can too, haha.

Thanks guys, this means a lot. I'll make sure I keep updating when I start working on it. Keep you guys in-check with the progress.

Lol then Godspeed buddy.

Make a project thread