Jump to content
SAU Community

Revs Droping

Cyo18r

By Cyo18r,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

Cyo18r Community Regular

Cyo18r

Posted
Posted

I have a r32 4door gtst (rb20det) and some times you give it a boot full then go to pull up and the rpm drops off some times to the point were it stalls or you could be drive along and go to change gears and it's like the car stalls out and also it dose it why just putting around anyone got any iders that could help me out even if you could SMS me as I don't really get on here much (0401 787 770)

Link to comment
Share on other sites
theforce Community Regular

theforce

Posted
Posted

try performing a fault/error code test using the OBD and see what error code flashes on dash. If your afm, ignitor, coils, plugs are ok, then it could be a faulty CAS (crank angle sensor).

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Cyo18r Community Regular

Cyo18r

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the help guys if u got any other iders let me no.... I have new plugs and new splitfire coil packs siting there witch I am puting in in the weeknd coz the standed coils are crap when I was runing 18psi that didn't like it and are just still kinda working lol

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Muff Rising Star

Muff

Posted
Posted

the high boost is blowing the spark Out. i used 2 have this problem so i went 2 a smaller gap plug and coil plugs. but it used 2 only happen under boost.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted (edited)

Have you got an BOV venting to atmosphere? This could be causing the issue if the car is not tuned/tuned correctly.

Also new spark plugs and coilpacks are a good idea, however they are not going to solve your problem of revs dropping and stalling as these are at low load points where you dont require a strong spark. I dont think that will be the issue but its something worth updating anyway.

Clean the AFM and AAC valves and post up if you have an Atmo BOV and if so which one.

Also if you DONT have an atmo bov, and the car has a factory ECU (with no chip, piggyback etc) then perhaps try resetting the ECU. I had my skyline go funny back when it was on stock ECU after I put an atmo BOV on it then took it back off. It did the same thing kept stalling even with the stock BOV back on, and I tried everything and the only thing that fixed it was resetting the ECU

If you want to do that, disconnect the battery and hold your foot on the brakes for about 10 seconds or so then plug the battery back in. But do this only if your sure its the factory ECU with no mods/chips/tunes/piggybacks etc

Edited by 89CAL
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Cyo18r Community Regular

Cyo18r

Posted
  • Author
Posted

It is runing the factory ecu but it's been chiped far as I no coz it dose not have speed cut and revs out more and it has a hks ssqv type1 bov.... I will list the mods done to the car witch most of them was already done to the car when I got it

(rb20det)

hks ssqv

hks front mount

turbosmart boost T

hks pod filter

2.5" twin champer dump pipe

3" exhuast

r33 turbo that has been high flowed and has a garrat gt35

ballbearing

Other then that it's standed

it made 232hp on 10psi soon to be going on the dyno after I do me new plugs and coilpacks and biger fuel pump

Other then that it's sta

Link to comment
Share on other sites
89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted

mine didnt have speed cut and seemed to rev more, but trust me it was definently a stock ECU. Yours is running a high flow but making 173rwkw, which suggests its probably still a standard ECU but I'm not going to say it definently is or definently isnt.

If you can, start the car and when its hunting or trying to stall try placing something over the BOV so no air can escape from it. If this makes your revs settle down then I'd say the BOV will be the issue. HKS make plumback kits for the SSQV's (not sure for which generation they apply to but)

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 1 month later...
fly333 Collaborator

fly333

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hi im am having the same problem when i accelerate to red line then take my foot off the accelerator the car drops and the whole engine shakes.

I have stock ecu,turbo,fmic,turbo exhaust.

i took my car to be diagnosed today but couldn't find the problem. The fuel pump,air flow meter,cas, has been checked and still having same problem..........

I'm sick of wasting time and money can anyone help.

Edited by fly333
Link to comment
Share on other sites
nm35is Apprentice

nm35is

Posted
Posted

Revs dropping to the point of stalling...I had the same issue with my r32 gtst. Did a diagnostic with my connect cable n ecutalk software. Turned out to be a code 12 (maf sensor) fault. Cleaned out the afm (sensor & the plug, undid 4 screws n pulled the plug out, sprayed inside with carby/tb cleaner) and it fixed my issue. The contact points inside the plug were bogged up...

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Dan_J Veteran

Dan_J

Posted
Posted
sometimes it can be the AAC, other times it can be weak coils or old plugs, or it can be an atmo bov (or blocked off bov/no bov).

can someone explain why a rb with no bov will stall more?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
djvoodoo Experienced

djvoodoo

Posted
Posted

can someone explain why a rb with no bov will stall more?

Has been covered a million times, air flow is pushed back through the IC pipework (no bov to release pressure), hits the AFM on it's way out of the pod... AFM read's twice the amount of air, chucks in more fuel, stallage.

Doesn't happen to all rb's. there are many people on this forum that don't run bov's and don't have stalling issues.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Roy
      R32 GTS/GTST non driven wheel speed

      By Roy · Posted

      Another complicated thing is to run Z32 alloy hubs which have wheel speed sensors for ABS. You need different tie rod end, and you need new bearings on the upright etc. I did that as part of a major refresh when my front kingpin bearing flogged out., Alloy was a little lighter, runs a bigger bearing , gives a few extra mm in wheelbase as it moves the wheel forward in the arch (cant run crazy but can still get 8ish comfortably).   All in all glad I did it but was a head fark as tried it once and abandoned it the first time. sav man swung his spanners at it and got it working so using his guidance on GTR/Z32 tie rod ends etc and the required mismatch of parts was able to make it work.  Probably a 2k upgrade all said and done :(   I think the best bet is just look around your front wheel and see what you can pick up rotationally. You see old Escorts, E30s etc all get very creative with front uprights and the humble old angled alloy bracket.
    • Butters
      Garrett G-XRace Range

      By Butters · Posted

      Big claims here.  Any links up on the website ?   
    • Butters
      RB gearbox options

      By Butters · Posted

      If your HP goal is reasonable and you are not drifting. Buy a new R34 box.  If the above is not true, buy a wrecked R33 box and put a gearset in it.  CD09 are not as strong as you think and the cost of / mess around of the conversion puts you in gearset territory.    Also the deal above is awesome,, get that  
    • dbm7
      Got this r31 silhouette flood car to rebuild.

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Just got back from a little hands-on with a G58 Baron....I was thinking about this... ..best I can figure it, that pinny was tail-ended ...I didn't really think about the wiring, because all that mattered was the tank and pump cradle (I think I mentioned the pump itself I couldn't vouch for)...which didn't matter, as you said you'd be replacing the pump anyway.... ...'for some reason'....and I imagine this is the panel shop's doing... they've replaced the cradle wiring with a metre of 7-core trailer loom, and attached the loom plug (from a different car) to that. The actual cable run from the top of the pump cradle, to fuel pump harness end in boot, is maybe 60cm in length...so I've no idea why they did this... ....the connector in the boot of the pinny, is not going to help you here...because in theory, it should still be present on your car. On top of that, because they've done what they did, we have no idea which colours of the trailer cabling, have been connected to what on the fuel pump cradle (pump +/- , shield, fuel guage/low-level senders)... ...this means, best approach is to remove the pump cradle, and re-work it now ...not later. That is, if you were going to replace the pump, do it, replace the soft lines at the same time...and sort the wiring out (replace that trailer cable with the wiring loom off your old cradle)...
    • GTSBoy
      Fake ARP bolts?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Well, maybe not. The main feature of Chinese manufacture seems to be incredibly variable quality, coupled with an apparent willingness to find a way to see even the stuff that fails QC. So the military could still take the cream of the production run and somehow sell the "sellable but not really useable" stuff to the stupid round eyes on the other side of the world.
×
×
  • Create New...