Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My R34 GTT Sedan was written off, the boot is totally smashed in (rear ended), the bonet is also useless, but engine and everything else all good.

Do you think it would be worth buying back wreck from Insurance as I think I have the option to do so, not yet sure how much it would be.

But was just wondering how much a front cut could be sold for, it also had NISMO front bumper which actually survived the crash, it also has some 18" Black/Chrome Lip rims, which also survived the crash.

Cheers

depending on the price, id say yes, gearbox (if its manual) and engine would be worth a bit. little interior parts here and there will add up as well, then you got your rims and misc other parts here and there that someone might be intersted in.

if not, find out what auction house its going to and bid 1k for the wreck there and take it home.

my audi was sold for 95 bucks at the auction house.

hahaha

  • 3 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I dunno man, that VX S with 200,000 k's is still hanging out for 1.5 I reckon the R34 is the better buy, personally.
    • Dang, doesn't even include on roads.
    • Only in a market where OBD was a thing. The rest of the world was quite happy to let the US EPA only affect US cars for quite a while. The* problem with datalogs is that unless you are very familiar with what every trace should look like, on their own and as an ensemble, you can and will see weird shit that can and will lead you astray, not realising that what you are seeing is the normal consequence of various transient inputs. *Really, "a" problem, as there are of course many other problems too. Look, these cars are so bloody simple that if it is missing or stumbling, the obvious thing is to break out the old mental diagnostic list and just go do all the things that you know you should. After proving that the plugs are clean and sound, ditto the coil stalks, coils, loom connectors, etc, and then making sure that there is fuel pressure at about the right numbers (while driving!, not while sitting in the garage free blipping it), then maybe you go looking at AFM voltages, manually testing the igniter, putting a scope on the CAS, etc. Then you're into pulling the injectors for a spray pattern look-see and perhaps a clean, squirting carby cleaner around the inlet manifold looking for leaks, and all the more annoying and esoteric, but still common as muck faults that these things have. I wouldn't ever bother looking at the trims, as they are usually bullshit on these old clunkers anyway.
    • Jousting sticks! Tell 'im he's dreamin!
    • GTR owners are wankers - 2025
×
×
  • Create New...