Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Cams is always an interesting debate, long argued, no real end result.

There are basically two ways of thinking.

- Larger cams, combined with a LOT of head work, oversized valves and all that $$$ jazz - works very well great power overall. You do seem to take a hit in lower RPM however.

- Smaller cams, combined with a minor tidy up - works well but gives better off/on throttle response & low RPM performance as a result.

Obviously the is about as gross of a generalisation as one can make without typing a thesis.

The bigger/flow will obviously be more efficient as RPM and perhaps make more power. Yet the smaller option will perhaps not make quite the same peak yet give you more gains on/off the loud pedal.

Depends what you are after really. Most Racepace GTR's here in Melb 2.6-2.8ltr run factory cams from what it appears. Bigger than that the advice is the 3ltr does like a little bit of larger cam love given the displacement alterations.

Syd seems a different view where everything is oversized (valves, cams, porting).

Issue is - all the results are on a dyno for both states. Now as my RB26 comparo from Racepace showed... The turbos virtually have identical boost/power graphs (-9 & -5). Yet on the street/circuit it is markedly different. It would be up to the owner to decide what they are after I guess.

Pity you weren't about over Xmas. I do intend to come up again in a month or two so I can show you the Mexican build lol.

Yeah and we all packed in the trouser department too. :nyaanyaa:

Ash are there any of the examples using OS valves at Racepace or do they prefer using stock sized valves.

Rightio. Another cheeky question.

Would a 90 mm exhaust from the front pipes back (twin 3 inch into a single 90 outlet) be big enough.... or do we "really" need a 4 inch.

3.5 inch (90 mm.. close enough) vs a 4 inch (101.6mm)

Rightio. Another cheeky question.

Would a 90 mm exhaust from the front pipes back (twin 3 inch into a single 90 outlet) be big enough.... or do we "really" need a 4 inch.

3.5 inch (90 mm.. close enough) vs a 4 inch (101.6mm)

I'd say the 4 inch exhaust will benefit throughout the rev range.

It's just trying to keep the sucker quiet!!!

Tangomatt has a 4 inch cat back exhaust with custom Racepace mufflers, quiet on idle but oh the sound at high rpm!!!!!

Paul - 4" mate for 400rwkw.

3.5" for 350

and 3" for 300

See a theme? :D

Yeah and we all packed in the trouser department too. :nyaanyaa:

Ash are there any of the examples using OS valves at Racepace or do they prefer using stock sized valves.

Stock is the common choice :)

yeah but 4" exhaust and 10.8mm lift cams sounds awesome :thumbsup: ... love it when the whole car shakes at idle hehehe... even though its bottom end and mid-range sucks compared to most of the other Racepace cars... but that's more to do with the truck turbos than anything else

oh well nearly time to run E85, up the boost and see if I can't break the turbos so I can change to -5 :pirate:

yeah but 4" exhaust and 10.8mm lift cams sounds awesome :thumbsup: ... love it when the whole car shakes at idle hehehe... even though its bottom end and mid-range sucks compared to most of the other Racepace cars... but that's more to do with the truck turbos than anything else

oh well nearly time to run E85, up the boost and see if I can't break the turbos so I can change to -5 :pirate:

I like it when I'm at the lights and everyone gives me a dirty look and winds up their windows hehe.

yep... with the uprated springs, retainers and lifters... a credit to racepace tuning it actually runs really smoothly, just a lope at idle... I think if you are going to upgrade cams go for as much lift and as little overlap as possible... so you get the most torque benefit you can without moving the powerband up too much

yep... with the uprated springs, retainers and lifters... a credit to racepace tuning it actually runs really smoothly, just a lope at idle... I think if you are going to upgrade cams go for as much lift and as little overlap as possible... so you get the most torque benefit you can without moving the powerband up too much

Well I have 270's @ 10.25 so more duration and less lift. I only rev mine to 8 - 8.5 so i could get away with the 260's...

Ive noticed how big overlap cams bring boost on sooner with turbo cars, this is no doubt due to the extra exhaust energy being delivered to the turbo instead of crank.

Could a similar thing be achieved with stock cams, just retard the ignition when coming onto boost, whether or not the extra torque the boost gives cancels out the lack of power from the ignition I can't imagine it'd be any different from just running big cams. You would only need to do it from say 1500-2500 rpm to get it spooling a little earlier.

What do people think?

I found this out due to a bug with my nistune ecu where occasionally the cold start map would shit itself and put max retard on the timing. Could get 4psi in neutral and it would make the stock turbo surge like crazy at 2000rpm due to it building 10psi with the throttle barely cracked open. Made the car undrivable as it was so doughy but so much boost that it would kick back and forth from no power to loads of power as it came out of the map.

How much difference does that Vcam make?

A lot !!

Standard idle feeling, boost on quicker and at lower rpm.

Can run laggy turbo / turbo's setup and lose the lag.

Its a shame theres not more being used in Oz.

Driven this setup a few times now and its response and power is bloody awesome.

6af5e5eb.jpg

b664f4a2.jpg

8506ea1c.jpg

7e792031.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • find it funny everyone claims different fuel chains, do different things with their fuel blah blah blah. We don't have that many fuel terminals in Australia. The fuel tanker trucks drive into the terminal, fill up, and drive directly to the service station and dump out. The majority of fuel you get, is coming out of the same terminals. The variation is actually at the individual service stations and how good their tanks are, as well as how much turn over they actually have. Older fuel stations, that haven't had their tanks replaced are going to end up with the worst fuel. Also a lot of older stations have shit design, and shit maintenance, and end up with more water absorption into the tank. This is when you then get a bad batch of fuel. Other shit things happen, like tanker drivers have a f**k up, and starting to unload the wrong compartment on their truck into the wrong tank. 
    • This one?? In other news: I cannot tell the difference between my red MX5 with the silver grey hard top......... and the Ferrari 599XX EVO, they might as well be twins, well.......apart from the big wang hanging off the back of the Ferrari...🤔🤣, without the wing they are identical   
    • Turn it into the pride flag 
    • I think you'll find we're confused about what you were trying to do and how you were doing it. I would have thought that block rigidity was something you measured while loading the block in beam or in torsion, and that you would do so before and after grout filling, to see if putting material in there created a "composite" construction with the expected rigidity increase. Notwithstanding that the true function of grout is less about gross rigidity than local (ie preventing bore deflection/splitting and tying the bores to the main bearing locations a little better, etc etc). It is nearly impossible to follow your description of what you've done without closing ones eyes and making "aliens" hand shapes in front of oneself to try to follow the manipulations you've made. It's still unclear to me what you were trying to prove.
×
×
  • Create New...