Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i can currently get toluene cheaper than 98 0ctane petrol .

what are peoples thoughts on using it in cars ?

can anyone one tell me what happens if you put too much in a standard car ?

or any other knowledge .

cheers

how the hell do you get it cheaper than 98? i spent ages trying to find it cheap over here and gave up

general consensus is you shouldnt run any more than 30% in a road car, which should be more than enough to make some decent fuel when mixxed with 98

Edited by JonnoHR31

Toluene used to be very popular for making racing fuels with mixes of between 10 -30% which gave an increase in RON of about 3. It is lead free and doesn't stuff O2 sensors. It will def make your car go faster if properly tuned. I don't know if there are any longterm downsides. As to toxicity - petrol and petrol fumes already contain aromatics and are bad for your health so in all cases avoid the fumes and getting it on your skin.

I looked into it for ages. Couldnt get it just off the street. I even asked a good mate who is a professional painter to get the stuff..... no go in the volume i wanted. Cut a long sotry short.... Upgrade your fuel system to handle E85. Once that is done its cheap and getting more and more easy to get.

E85 is not available at the pumps in NZ and very expensive to get. Note OP has a supply of toluene available at a good price. Petrol is not very good for you either - no-one is planning to drink the stuff.

Surely there are some old racers out there ( and we are talking 5 -10 years ago) who can advise of any downside to Toluene as a fuel?

E85 is not available at the pumps in NZ and very expensive to get. Note OP has a supply of toluene available at a good price. Petrol is not very good for you either - no-one is planning to drink the stuff.

Surely there are some old racers out there ( and we are talking 5 -10 years ago) who can advise of any downside to Toluene as a fuel?

I used to add a 20% mix of toluene to 98. The difference was quite noticable on the dyno over straight 98. Also added some measure of insurance when drag racing. This was back in 2004-2006.

Just wear gloves when you pour it and DON"T BREATH IT IN!!! A 30% mix is about all you can get away with.

Toluene is a little harder on your fuel lines, but who cares if you replace them every 3 or 4 years!

Cheers

Justin

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toluene Look at the list of things it will dissolve, and ask yourself what are all your fuel hoses made out of.

petrol also eats rubber, which is why you use fuel hose instead of standard rubber hoses in your fuel system.

cheers for that justin .

on a side note i do know someone that put a couple of tanks of it straight through a nx coupe . it did go alot better up top . said nx coupe was in no way maintained or tuned properly . and it still went long enough for it to be crashed into a wall .

what happens if you run 100% in an untuned car ? will it lean out and melt some ringlands ?

  • 4 weeks later...

I've ran toluene in my cars, lawn mowers, weed trimmers, etc. for years and hadn't had any problems.  Now experimenting with moth balls (real naphthalene) and carb/throttle body cleaners (ingredients appear similar to bottled octane boosters, and dissolves moth balls quickly).  I wish there was an easy and reliable way to test octane for the average person. My neighbors probably think that I am running a meth lab at home.

Direct from wiki:

"Toluene at 86% by volume fueled all the turbo Formula 1 teams in the 1980s, first pioneered by the Honda team. The remaining 14% was a "filler" of n-heptane, to reduce the octane to meet Formula 1 fuel restrictions. Toluene at 100% can be used as a fuel for both two-stroke and four-stroke engines; however, due to the density of the fuel and other factors, the fuel does not vaporize easily unless preheated to 70 degrees Celsius (Honda accomplished this in their Formula 1 cars by routing the fuel lines through the muffler system to heat the fuel). Toluene also poses similar problems as alcohol fuels, as it eats through standard rubber fuel lines and has no lubricating properties as standard gasoline does, which can break down fuel pumps and cause upper cylinder bore wear."

In other words, it does not suit Joe Blow back yarders trying to save a buck. Engine(s) cost more than fuel in the long run.

Google time.

good luck, i spent a fair bit of time looking into it a while back and couldnt find any for less than ~$10/L here in perth, which is too expensive to use as a fuel. cheaper to buy e85 drums

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Por qué no los dos? Body colour red with black stripes down centre, onto bonnet and bootlid.
    • From my bolts, standard M8 with 1.25mm thread pitch (M8x1.25mm).    Length is 19mm under the head and has a captive 18mm OD flat washer.   20mm length from a bolt shop is what you'll be able to get.   Make sure they're zinc plated.    If you're concerned about strength, grade 8.8 will be more than enough. Original PN is 01121-04971.  Now discontinued according to Amayama but that's because it's one of the parts that's been captured by the Heritage program, which explains the ridiculous price.   New PN is 01121-RHR20: https://nismodirect.com/nismo-heritage-bolt-pin-hinge-hood-bnr32-nissan-skyline-gt-r-01121-rhr20-01121-04971/ About AUD33 converted from Yen in the above link but that's just one example. Interesting that the hinge-to-body bolts are still available non-heritage.....PN 08116-8161G around $2 each (amayama).    Same thread but 16mm long.
    • Well, if that filter was impeding fluid flow, then it could have similar effects to faulty solenoids. The TCU will register a fault when it does something (ie, changes the state of a solenoid) and does not detect the required result. If there are other causes that can make the same lack of result, then they will be indistinguishable to the expected cause for which the TCU has a code.
    • Yellowjackets, red ones, blue ones (other than Splitfire) have all been demonstrated to be unreliable on turbo engines. That unreliability can be anything from outright failure (ie, 4 out of a set of 6 working out of the box) to just not being strong enough for the task, on a boosted engine. Not enough of us care about NA engines to know whether that unreliability is an issue for the undemanding needs of an NA RB20. I should think though that the DIS-008 should fit the 20. There's not really any reason for the head/coil mounting area to be any different on those 2 Neos. I wouldn't be buying Splitfires, or any other old tech coilpack, for a car in this day and age though. I would buy modern pencil coils and do what needs to be done to adapt them to the loom. That's relatively trivial these days, with numerous kits for fitting R35, or Audi, or Yaris/Corolla coils.
    • Keen to see how much work is needed to get an abandoned Skyline going. My R32 has been sitting idle for three years or so but finally got some time to get it going again. (Also lurking SAU and trying to hit 10 posts so I can start my own intro thread with pics)
×
×
  • Create New...