Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Price is $12k O.N.O. as I have another car lined up, meaning I'm pretty negotiable, worst I can do is say no and I'll most likely say yes because I'm pretty flexible and want this gone.

1994 S14 Series 1 Silvia Manual- Stock Maroon colour

3X,000km since engine rebuild - rebuilt to stock specs

Reciepts for all work done - Done by previous owner

S15 T28 Ball Bearing turbo

Brand new flexible oil and water lines with speedflow fittings for turbo

New gaskets on all turbo side

Front mount intercooler - Custom no holes kit

3" Exhaust with twin tips

HKS pod filter

A'Pexi BOV

Slotted front rotors

Just had new Tie Rod Ends put in both sides at the front, so they'll be good for another however many km

Gmax Rims

18x8.5 fronts 235/45/18 Sunnys

18x9.5 rears 225/40/18 Newtons stretched on

30mm bolt on spacers

Genuine Navan Grill from the S14 Navan kit

35% tint.

Spolier holes blanked over, welded and painted

B&M Short shifter

12" Dildo gear knob

Profec Spec B boost controller

Turbo Timer/Volt Meter

A'Pexi boost gauge mounted on A-pillar

Heavy duty clutch - Again done by previous owner, so unsure on brand but never had an issue

Viper alarm and immobolizer, so when you lock the car the windows wind up automatically

Kenwood head unit

SPARES THAT WILL BE INCLUDED;

Full SR20DET stripped down in boxes ready to be built

Uras Extra Lock Spacers

Nardi Deep Corn steering wheel

Kei Office springs

JDM Gauges -> Boost, Oil Temp and Oil Pressure, factory option but hardly any exist, cost me like $500 to get into Aus haha

GKTech SS Tune length lowmount exhaust manifold

Rear adjustable camber arms

Intake Manifold

Spare turbo gasket

Rear tail lights including centre piece

Stock airbox

Cluster

Rear Stock Spoiler

Spare 18" tyres

_______________________________________________________________________________________________________

That's all I can remember off the top of my head haha although I'm sure there's actually more that I can't remember or don't know about.

All the electrics (windows/mirrors/keyless entry) work, and I've got two of the remote central locking remotes that both work. Heater blows hot air, air cond blows cold, radio plays radio stations, everything as you'd expect haha. Only run it on 7psi daily because I don't see the need for super power going to and from work, but as soon as you turn it up to even 11psi (which most guys run daily on Silvias, or more) it comes to life.

The paint is fine, there is some hail damage from the epic storm we had at the begining of the year, but I bought it like that and it isn't going to be too hard to fix up. Front right sway bar has had the rubber perish, meaning on right hand turns it knocks a bit, I was just planning on swapping the swaybar out for a whiteline one which was going to be just as easy and cheap.

Contact Info:

Josh

0420 307 580

[email protected]

38921i9_20.jpeg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/349927-s14-series-1/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Saruthewhite hasn’t been on our site since November 2016 sorry mate
    • Note when Duncan says that, he means "when you're not using the correct lifting points on the sills, because you want to work on the sills. A 2 post hoist is not appropriate for everything anyway, and working on the sills is a good example of that, because the arms go under ths sills anyway. You're better off finding another way to support the car off the ground. Beyond that everything else D said is correct. Only the dedicated jacking points are the correct place to lift. Anywhere else is incorrect, extra caution and awareness must be used, etc etc.
    • Your off site links didn't work for me, and in any case it is easier for forum members if you post the pic directly either as an attachment or a link so the information is all in one place. That aside, the sills are the correct place to lift the car, whether with the factory jack or a hoist. Yes you should use rubber blocks with a slit for the seam on a hoist to avoid bending the pinch weld (where yours is currently bent, just bend it back if possible eg vicegrips), and be aware of the height you need in the blocks to clear any sill extensions to the hoist arms as it lifts If what you are doing needs access to the sills, the rear subframe bush would also be strong and secure. I'm not sure what you mean by sidemember (maybe same part I mean by sills) but be careful that your front support point is not too far back as the car is very front heavy and could overbalance.
    • Here's my first iteration - white duct tape so color is off, but this is just a straight line across the bonnet lip. From a geometry standpoint, this is probably closest to what a GTR has. Next up is some $5 white pearl vinyl and some rubber door sill trim, applied to the BACK of the bonnet lip. It's more accurate placement to the GTR, but also follows the body lines on this setup a bit more. Couple more pics on this config incoming: Again, a $5 vinyl and rubber job, it's  POC still and not how I'm gonna run this part. But one thing I'll note is that the black trim does need to "straighten out" a bit, and instead of going completely along the line of the bonnet lip, might be better suited to wrap over the "horns" of the bonnet lip, giving it a less aggressive curve up at the ends.  The correct way to do this would be to paint it body-matched and then decide how you want to make the black line. If you used paint or a pinstripe, you could have the black line go straight to the corner of the headlight where the rubber strip typically meets the headlight on a GTR.   Hope this helps!
×
×
  • Create New...