Jump to content
SAU Community

Power Window Motor Replacement/clean

180 wanabe
 Share

Recommended Posts

Seano350GT Veteran

Seano350GT

Posted
Posted

My driver's side window is slower to wind up than the passenger side, but they both go down at the same speed. The "auto" feature on my window does not work on the driver's side, but does work on the passenger side. Also when you close the door and the window moves up a little bit, that does not happen with the drivers side but it does with the passenger side.

Will pulling apart the door trim and cleaning the driver's side motor fix all the issues or would it be smarter to just buy a whole new motor?

The Max Mentor

The Max

Posted
Posted

It's definitely best to do things properly and in this case, replace the motor as Chris suggested. It's not like Nissan's window motors are built poorly like Ford's. Those things definitely need modification to make them actually reliable, much like what I did to my BA wagon's lock motor/mechanism.

russky Collaborator

russky

Posted
Posted

I haven't read all of the posts above, but I thought I'd share my experience: the window motor stopped working too. First it was half working, then completely stopped putting the window down. Went to Nissan who stated I require the whole motor to be completely replaced. They quoted over $1k for the job.

After speaking to an electrician, I was informed that the motor inside just likely needs a bit of cleaning. There are plenty of instructions that can be found online on how to get to the motor. When you disassembly the motor, you may realise that it consists of moving parts that just get worn out and need cleaning for better contact (research a little about how a motor operates if in doubt). After a good clean of the coils etc, it works great so far.

Chris Rogers Grand Master

Chris Rogers

Posted
Posted

tell that to the customer that just left my shop. he was following this thread and had the drivers motor FAIL in the down position.

forget trying to save them. when they start not going up all the way or falling to half way - replace it.

I wish I had the motor for this car on hand. would have saved him a trip back here.

vee35 Enthusiast

vee35

Posted
Posted

I know I am living on the edge, but a few weeks ago, mine jammed in the down position and it was a long cold drive from where I was to home. I searched the internet for some clues, and found it was a common problem. I found one post where someone just whacked their door, and it worked, so I gave it a go. It worked. The window went up, and kept working for a few weeks, before it happened again. And another whack, and it was back in action.

This is no permanent fix in my eyes, but if you get caught out, give it a go to get home. And we are not talking too hard, and it was on the outside of the door, I did it from sitting in the drivers seat, with my arm out the door.

The Max Mentor

The Max

Posted
Posted

I haven't read all of the posts above, but I thought I'd share my experience: the window motor stopped working too. First it was half working, then completely stopped putting the window down. Went to Nissan who stated I require the whole motor to be completely replaced. They quoted over $1k for the job.

Typical of a dealership.

After speaking to an electrician, I was informed that the motor inside just likely needs a bit of cleaning. There are plenty of instructions that can be found online on how to get to the motor. When you disassembly the motor, you may realise that it consists of moving parts that just get worn out and need cleaning for better contact (research a little about how a motor operates if in doubt). After a good clean of the coils etc, it works great so far.

I have yet to come across a motor of any application that only needed a cleaning to last for years upon years. If something gets worn out (not dirty), then cleaning alone is not restoring the motor back to its original condition or even close to it. The best you can hope for are slightly worn brushes but not too far gone. All you've really done is prolonged the cancer patient's life expectancy as opposed to curing it. Not the best analogy but you get my drift.

In the end, it's all well and good if it's your own car because you only have yourself to blame if you find yourself having to fix it again down the track. In Chris' case, he runs a reputable business and it would look pretty bad for him to send away a customer with a cleaned motor only to have it come back again not long after with the same problem. Besides which, why do the same job twice because you took a gamble?

Chris Rogers Grand Master

Chris Rogers

Posted
Posted

tony,

i think we are trying to re-educate the 'educated'

there is no 'fix' for this . what i have found over the years is a lot of bad information on forums that claim to fix things when they really do nothing.

general rule for a v35, if a door acts up have $1 k per door handy if you cant chnge the bits out yourself.

again there is not a quick fix for this problem..

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      I drive the Tiguan much harder than the Skyline in all conditions, because it just grips and hooks, unlike the R33 shit box
    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • Kinkstaah
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
×
×
  • Create New...