ECR33 & HR33?

[JiVE]

I'm in the market for a Skyline R33,

anybody got any hints/tips on what to look out for on a second hand R33 GTS-T?

[R33s-Goesoff]

I did some recearch when looking for my Skyline.

Called my uncle who knows a bloke in tamworth who sells them at a dealership. Asked if there is anything too look out for. He said Skylines are quite sound cars with no major problem to look out for... Basicially stay away from heavely modded 1's that u think have been thrashed or drifted on dirt tracks ect.

Bit of a quick checklist

rust

compliance date

reason for selling

has it got service record in aus

is the body straight

any crash history

tyre condition

scrtches on paintwork

seat ware

proof that km are genuin

weel shaking

tampering with dash skrews(puting back km's)

km numbers arnt alined

air bubbles in water

stained dip stick

put your hand over the muffler see if it stalls ( back pressure )

power steering leeks highpressure leeks from the steering box

windscreen chips

smooth gearbox change

wine noise in geerbox

shoks push down if they bounce they r stuffed

weel alighnment

normal oil pressure

Hears a more detailed checklist:

Examine in daytime

Examine in clear weather

Check for nicks and scratches

Check for thin, worn paint

Check for big defects (costly) and not minor repairs

General look around the outside of the car.

Examine both sides of the car from a distance (both front and back).

Look for ripples, waves, poorly fitted panels and mismatched colors.

Look for dents or rust around the bottom of the doors and fenders.

Check for bubbles along molding or chrome (indicates rust underneath).

Look under the vehicle for rust

Check for welding spots on the frame (serious accident or repairs).

Open and close the doors, hood, trunk or hatchback.

Stand back approximately 10 to 15 feet from the car and see if the car is level.

Check the shocks by pushing down on each corner of the car and letting go.

Check the tires (sidewall cracks, uneven tire wear, brake fluid leakage)

Look under the car for:

oil spots, or

transmission fluid or

power steering fluid or

shock absorber fluid.

Open the hood and check belts and hoses for cracks or wear.

Radiator coolant should be a clean, greenish (or blue or yellow) color.

Pull out the oil dipstick. Oil should not be gummy or grayish or smell burnt.

Check automatic transmission fluid, should be clear and reddish.

Check the fluid level in the master cylinder as well.

Look inside the trunk for an inflated spare tire, a jack and a lug wrench.

Back

Interior Checklist

Check the mileage

Compare mileage on service stickers (door jamb/under hood) to the odometer reading.

Check the condition of the seats, belts and carpeting.

Check the windows to see if they open and close easily.

Check the brake, accelerator and clutch -- should work smoothly, no strange noises.

Check all exterior lights and flashers on the car

Start the engine and check the warning lights and gauges

Make certain that the air conditioning blows very cold air.

Check the glove box for the owner's manual.

Do not be afraid to take up the salespersons' time.

Stay in control

Do not let anyone talk you into buying a vehicle you do not want.

Back

Test Drive Checklist

Drive the car on hills, highways and in stop-and-go traffic.

Start the engine and press down on the brake.

Listen for noises which could indicate engine problems.

Put the car in neutral and rev the engine. Check for smoke from rear exhaust.

Punch the gas pedal. Does engine respond without hesitation then return to normal?

Check the lights on the control panels--be sure they all work.

Does automatic transmission shift smoothly?

Manual transmission should shift smoothly between gears without grinding.

Clutch should engage and disengage smoothly without grabbing

Drive in reverse

Does car pull or vibrate when driving on a flat, smooth road?

Do the brakes grab evenly and does the car slow down in a straight line?

Drive at 35 miles per hour and listen for any unusual noises.

Accelerate to 45 miles per hour, does the front end shake or vibrate?

Drive quickly over a rough road and listen for any loud squeaks or rattles.

Does the car bounce or bang over small bumps?

Check the temperature gauge to see if it shows a high reading

Accelerate hard on an empty road, does the car respond immediately?

Try it again.

Accelerate on a hill, does the car respond immediately?

Cut off the engine. Then restart the engine -- does it restart easily?

Check for leaks under the hood and beneath the car.

Check the tailpipe. Are there any black, sooty oil deposits?

Does the odometer mileage seem to match the physical condition of the car?

Check odometer for scratches, misaligned digits, digits that stick.

Or get a mechanical inspection if u got the cash.

[Merli]

put your hand over the muffler see if it stalls ( back pressure)

This may not be the best idea mate I suggest you give this item a miss :Oops:

One thing that's very important, more so on GTRs than GTS-ts is check for rebirthing.

The BLUE Nissan Build Plate should have the details PRINTED on it... i.e. If you run your fingers over the details printed on it, it should be smooth. IT SHOULD NOT BE ENGRAVED... If it's engraved, it has a fake Nissan Build Plate with a fake Chassis Number. These are forged and put on stolen cars with a new and legitimate chassis number.

This BLUE Nissan Build Plate *should* also have two white plastic rivet-like fasteners holding it on... If they're missing, ask yourself why. The Build plate should NEVER be removed, unless perhaps for a full respray including engine bay...