Jump to content
SAU Community

Heres Some Pics Of My Newly Flared Guards.... What Offset Do You Recommend?


Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

interested in getting some 18" rims somewhere between 10 and 11 inches wide, to use with my existing tires (235/40 front, 245/40 back)

I've just had my guards rolled and flared. I have a little bit of cleanup to do on the sides (didn't quite roll down far enough), but what offset do you think i could run safely on the rears, i've attached a few pics so you can see how flared it is. I'm not trying to win an offset competition, just want something that looks nice :)

I can't find much information about wheel fitment with flared guards, so if there is a thread that my search didn't find, your welcome to just post the link

Thanks, guys

post-43177-0-63654700-1294820845_thumb.jpg

post-43177-0-30593400-1294820848_thumb.jpg

post-43177-0-78906600-1294820850_thumb.jpg

post-43177-0-18778800-1294820853_thumb.jpg

post-43177-0-72707700-1294820855_thumb.jpg

post-43177-0-28220200-1294820858_thumb.jpg

post-43177-0-12910000-1294820861_thumb.jpg

post-43177-0-13033500-1294820864_thumb.jpg

Hi, guys

I want to get some D1R in 18x10. Nowhere local has them though, so i have to order them from interstate, what offset can I get away with?

i have the 17x10's in +17(or 15 cant quite remember), i reckon theyll fit nicely (mine stick a little bit outside the standard guard) i can add a photo later if you want a look

Okay, thanks guys..

I've had the fronts rolled and very slightly flared, but the flaring is almost not visible. What offset for 18x10's on the front? 235/40 tyres :)

i have the 17x10's in +17(or 15 cant quite remember), i reckon theyll fit nicely (mine stick a little bit outside the standard guard) i can add a photo later if you want a look

I'd love a looky-see :)

How much width did you gain on the front guard?

I can fit 255/40/17 with a 5mm spacer 17x9 +38 but I would prefer to run a 10mm spacer and flare the guard or run 25mm+ fibreglass guards

whats with running 235 on a 10" rim... is it a performance, fitment or looks thing?

Well, I've got 235's front and 245's back on ugly 18x8 rims at the moment.

Want to get new wheels, coz these ones are ugly, and i'm in love with D1R's

I love epic offset, just looks awesome, and I want 10"s all round so i have nice dish on the front too. I also want to keep current tyres because they have heaps of tread still on them.

If 245/255/265 fit on the front without problem, i'll get them when i need new tyres

*here comes Rowan*

hate to be "dad" n stuff n be all like "son you need to think of your future"

but ask any racer, ANY real racer... you shouldn't apply hippari (stretch) to tyres that have been running without stretch...

ie get new tyres :)

the rubber on the tyres will have heated up, cooled down, heated up, cooled down gotten wet gotten dry etc etc in the "normal" shape - applying stretch to that rubber will make them crack. :)

so how much wider did you get the front guards after lipping rolling flaring etc?

I haven't measured it. I'd say it would have the same clearance as any R33 GTST with a good rolling job, but the flaring isn't really visible so i'd say bugger-all flare-age

^^^yeah what he implies..

how many mm were the guards flared?

get some ideas from offsets from other skylinefags see what they're running, take an offset that you like... and deduct it in your headcalculator!

ie:

say you like the look of a standard guard 10in wide rim with +15... and your guards are flared by 30mm from standard..

then deduct that amount and work out the maths :)

+15mm (the desired offset) minus 30mm (your guard spacing) will equal -15mm

so to get the +15mm offset look with 30mm flared guards... you'll need an 18x10 -15

maik sence? :)

maybe get 30mm bolt-on spacers :pirate:

okay had a looksee at your pics :)

it would e easy to get a ruler and measure the "flare" width

i predict about 15mm to 20mm flaring there... so yeah - just use maths :)

Thanks for your help guys,

Nobody local has these RIMS in stock, so i'm planning to order them through tempe tyres for $250 each plus $15 postage.

I just shot them off an Email, asking if I can return a rim i've purchased and swap it for the same wheel in a different offset, if they are okay with that, then i have nothing to lose :)

The D1R's are available in 0, 15, and 22 offset, i think i can easily do 22 all round, maybe 15, and i'm dreaming of 0 :)

If you guys were taking a guess, which one would you guesstimate for best fitment?

http://rimtuck.com/photos.php?photo=1232158367.jpg&id=413&h=3

^^^ your proposed setup..

18x10 +22

keep in mind this guy's running "chunky" tyres and isn't lowered... and it still looks "neat"

http://rimtuck.com/photos.php?photo=1230275813.jpg&id=341&h=4

^^^that is more what a +15 would look like...

mind you it's on R32 which i beleive have skinnier guards than your car..

some maybe a 0 offset is do-able? dont be a sissy :P

no, really... dont go 0 offset

i wouldnt run 22 offset on the back, im running 15 offset with std guards and that looks pretty sweet with the 10' rim. i think the 10" rim may be too wide at the front with 15 offset. im running a 9" rim on the front with the same offset and thats as wide as i would go, so maybe the 22 offset for the front? check out photos my car (this was before i lowered it) so you have an idea.

There are no spacers on the car, these wheels are 11" wide so it's an inch wider than what i'm planning to get

I don't have any pics of the top area of suspension, coz i couldn't see in there, but heres a few pics from underneath, i don't know if that helps or not

post-43177-0-56253000-1294911344_thumb.jpg

post-43177-0-59709300-1294911349_thumb.jpg

Hi, guys

I want to get some D1R in 18x10. Nowhere local has them though, so i have to order them from interstate, what offset can I get away with?

i sent you a pm with a local supplier and price ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • That's f**ked up. I'd guess it's more likely that you have an entire S13 subframe in there. Does it still have HICAS mounting points? Seeing as it is quite possible that yours is the only such converted car in the world, you'll probably struggle to find someone who can tell you from direct experience. 'Twere I you, I'd be looking for 4 stud Skyline rear brakes and convert back. At a minimum. Preferably go find all the stuff you need to put it back to 5 stud (assuming you're happy to change wheels) and upgrade to some decent brakes. You don't even need much stock stuff. Don't need calipers or rotors, as you can go fully aftermarket. Just needs hubs and the other bits and bobs that are different to what you have now.
    • The engine has nothing to do with it. The physical space behind the headlight is the limiting factor. And the height. The height of the NS70 is the same as stock. So the clamp bar across the top goes on nice. The battery tray is big enough for it to sit on. The X is for extra capacity - it has even more lead in it than the non-X NS70. Heavy f**ker. But it's not a track car, so I will suffer a couple of extra kg. In the case of the R34, maybe the physical space there is not as deep (forward-backward, not up down). Hence why they say the 60 is the biggest. But I would never trust a catalogue to tell me what will fit. I have the car. I have the existing battery. I have the tape measure. I have the dimensions of all the available batteries. I find the biggest box that will go in. (With the right terminals in the right places, of course).  
    • Hello! I have been having a hard time finding the answer to this question… I have a R32 GTS-T Sedan than has been 4 lug swapped using S13 hubs, rotors, and brakes. The front has also been converted to S13 suspension.    When the swap was completed, the handbrake cables were never hooked up, as the S13 rear calipers are the “handbrake”, and not the typical drum on rotor that the R chassis are. Does anyone know handbrake cables that will work for this conversion? I’d like to not use a hydraulic handbrake and stick with the traditional cable style. My original thoughts were to go with S14 cables and try to make them work, since I’m pretty sure S13 cables will be too short.    Any help would be appreciated!
    • I did some research, considering you have a neo engine, how is that battery compatible? I checked centuries website and super cheap and says it's not compatible. Only this full size one is. https://www.centurybatteries.com.au/products/ns60-mf
    • No, lets be honest here. I went to Winton and did a track day, for all the mods and V8 power and craziness I posted up a time that a K24 stock motor Honda Accord can do on the same tyres (narrower, too) 250kw and learning how to drive the f**kin thing is the sweet spot.
×
×
  • Create New...