Jump to content
SAU Community

After Market Aluminium Radiator + Engine Coolant Temp Sensor Help


Recommended Posts

Replaced radiator with an after market aluminium radiator. Engine coolant temp sensor is now unplugged.

This is the sensor that is on bottom right corner of the radiator, Page EN233 (page 253)

I would like to know

* What does ECT actually does (apart from telling ECU what coolant temp is)

* What is the effect on not having one?

* If I must have ECT connected

Thanking you in advance

i'm not sure how much that sensor actually does. i'm pretty sure the ecu uses the 2 wire sensor in the top radiator hose for the engine temp levels.

as for what effect the temp sensor can have (this is in general, not specific to the sensor you are talking about), the ecu alters both the fuel settings and ignition settings when the engine is cold. when the engine is cold it adds in more fuel. i'm not sure whether it advances or retards the timing. this will result in more fuel being used when driving as well as possibly making the car harder to start when warm (may not be noticably different though).

I think the bottom one is used to switch on the AC fan automatically once the temp reaches 90-95+, while the top one reports the engine temp to the ECU

Can anyone confirm if bottom sensor is for AC fan only? if so i am not going to bother with it.

Otherwise I will have to drill shiny ali radiator to plugs one of these sensors...

Thanks to both of you for replying

Can anyone confirm if bottom sensor is for AC fan only? if so i am not going to bother with it.

Otherwise I will have to drill shiny ali radiator to plugs one of these sensors...

Thanks to both of you for replying

Yes, only for the fan operation

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I suppose that's true. Barring almost any situation, I'll never sell so what the market does is kind of irrelevant to me. It's possible I'd make most of my money back. That spreadsheet I mentioned? Maybe I could make back more than what the car's total costs thus far are, but the parts and all that is possibly a different story... Thanks for reading. It was certainly a good moment and just makes the ties to the car that much stronger. It's exciting that the option will be there to bring it over, however I have some plans with a shop that may end up keeping the car there longer, not sure. Coupled with the fact I want to move there and haven't solidified any path yet. So in a way, it feels like I'm in a limbo state that is uncertain; time will tell.
    • No worries, everything worked out in the end. I just wanted to make the point that it doesn't matter where it comes from (I.E Australia), it can be broken or improperly built. I would still purchase from these companies in the future. B2R - Not certain how that finished, this was on a car I wired a few things and street tuned. I know the owner ended up shipping the motor back to Australia for investigation. Hopefully some of it is covered under warranty.  Turbosmart - I always pressure test everything that goes on my car. It's a habit from my career in oil and gas. I run two 40mm's and both had major leaks from the actuator to exhaust portion through the shaft. I returned both, they shipped me back two and one was leaking and the other had a 38mm top (40mm gate with 38mm actuator cap, no idea how that happens). Eventually after a lot of back and forth I found myself with two non-leaking gates. I believe this happens a lot more then people would like to believe but you would never know if you don't pressure test them prior to installation. Crank Motorsport - Issued a full refund and let me keep the seat rails. I turned them into scrap metal for other projects. GKTech - Shipped me out a replacement and asked that I modify it as per my idea and that they would do the same for a future revision. ATP - Can just needed a large shim to bolt up properly.  Haltech - They started an actual proper Beta channel for firmware's a few months back and stopped using the general public for testing. I'm now much happier.  Speedtek - f**k Speedtek. I would love to watch them burn.     
    • I've got a Turbosmart wastegate, ATP catch can, many GK Tech parts and Haltech everything. Everything's been perfect, sorry to hear your experience wasn't the same
    • The only high-power RB I've personally seen go pop after running for all of an hour on a dyno was built by B2R, while being remotely tuned by B2R. The only wastegates I've ever had leak like a sieve, return, still leak, return and get shipped back the wrong ones were from Turbosmart. The only final drive that I've ever purchased that were unusable, twice... were from Speedtek. The only seat mounts that I've ever purchased that placed the seats in the door frame were from Crank Motorsport. The only poorly designed parts that I had the manufacturer confirm should have been designed as per what I mentioned were from GKTech. The only ECU I've had firmware updates consistently break things are Haltech. The only catch can I've purchased that didn't fit in its advertised spot was from ATP. So forth and so on... Moral of the story, doesn't matter where it's from. Do your research beforehand and stick with products and companies you've trusted in the past.    @joshuaho96 If you want it done right, do it yourself.
    • Something coarse-ish. 180 is good.
×
×
  • Create New...