Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

I am going to modify my R32 GTR to run E85, my 1000cc injectors just turned up today!

And I have been trying to search around for fuel supply options for E85

I have currently got the following mods:

Rebuilt RB26 with forged internals

2860-5's

Nismo AFM's

full 3in exhaust

660cc injectors

Walbro fuel pump

Turbosmart E-Boost Street

std intercooler

K&N Filter in airbox

It made 350rwkw on a dyno dynamics @ 21.5psi

and made 317rwkw on a mainline dyno @ 20psi

Most people have told me that i'd need twin pump and surge tank setup to really make benefit of e85. but i want to try and steer clear from a surge tank in the boot because i've heard that there is fuel smell issues.

so an under car surge tank would be an option but there is very limited room underneath a R32, so where have people mounted surge tanks under the car if they have.

Also have anyone used any twin intank pump setups?

This would be the most attractive for me because it would be more simpler.

I have done track days and may do 2-3 a year, so its not a purpose track car. i dont drive it regularly hence fuel ecconomy and availability isnt much of an issue for me.

Even if i were to take it to the track again i would take my 3 20L jerry cans and make sure the fuel level doesnt drop below 1/2 a tank. so fuel surge isnt going to be a problem on track.

So if anybody has any results with a twin pump setup in tank please share it with me, it seems to be popular with the BMW guys, and on other forums like the WRX & EVO ones.

Cheers,

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/350161-twin-intank-pumps-for-a-gtr/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 61
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

You wont get any fuel smells if you do it properly with teflon braided lines, but it is still illegal.

Twin intank walbro's would be the go but a single GTR Nismo/Tomei should just handle that power.

^^^ on e85? Doubtful.

Powertune do a bolt in kit for twin pumps in tank. Do a search it's been covered before or call them up

Yeah there is a similar kit around too @ half the price, one of my customers just came in with one.... forgot who did it though.. :domokun:

Yeah there is a similar kit around too @ half the price, one of my customers just came in with one.... forgot who did it though.. :domokun:

mmm I'm interested. if you can find out who sells them I might grab one for my new car. want to switch it to E85. currently running a nismo pump, already has 1000cc injecotrs, after a nice 380kw or so with the 2530s it has but don't think the nismo pump will do it.

Yeah there is a similar kit around too @ half the price, one of my customers just came in with one.... forgot who did it though.. :domokun:

Yeah, if you could find out who the kit was through it would be appreciated!!

I'm just wondering how difficult it would be to modify the cradle and put together a bracket for the twin pumps to sit in?

also at what limit have people found the std fuel lines to run out of flow? what power levels do you have to run twin lines?

Cheers,

  • 9 months later...

I made my own twin walbro bracket. It surges at around 1/4 tank in my Stagea but that is due to the underseat tank mounting more than the pickup design.

A surge tank would be the best for track, even a small one may do the job.

post-63525-0-34465400-1320894136_thumb.jpg

Nismo intank pump, 400rwkw - no issues that we could tell from this. ID1000's

looked into all of this twin this, surge that, undercar etc... wasn't needed in the end.

pretty much same setup as well, built 26, 2530's.

Nismo intank pump, 400rwkw - no issues that we could tell from this. ID1000's

looked into all of this twin this, surge that, undercar etc... wasn't needed in the end.

pretty much same setup as well, built 26, 2530's.

on E85??

Nismo intank pump, 400rwkw - no issues that we could tell from this. ID1000's

looked into all of this twin this, surge that, undercar etc... wasn't needed in the end.

pretty much same setup as well, built 26, 2530's.

It's funny how similar our setups are.... but I am using HEAPS more fuel than you. Different ways of tuning to achieve the same result?

I'm pretty happy with the twin pumps i have in tank.

i managed to get them mounted in the stock cradle. after a heap of fiddling with the wiring they're running good now.

it turned out to be a bad connection clip in the fuel tank lid. removed it and ran an earth wire straight to the pumps and its fine now.

still a little low on power.

353rwkw on 24psi but hopefully with either poncams or a bigger cat back exhaust i can stretch some more out of it.

the exhaust is a little restrictive after the front pipe, front pipe is twin 70mm going into at least a 90 or 100mm collector and necking down to 80mm exit. then the decat has a 76mm flange so there is a fair restriction there.

the exhaust is a little restrictive after the front pipe, front pipe is twin 70mm going into at least a 90 or 100mm collector and necking down to 80mm exit. then the decat has a 76mm flange so there is a fair restriction there.

Sort that out! It's all over the place! Its amazing what a well thought out exhaust does for these things... I made more power on less boost on SMALLER turbo's with an exhaust that works!

Sort that out! It's all over the place! Its amazing what a well thought out exhaust does for these things... I made more power on less boost on SMALLER turbo's with an exhaust that works!

i was thinking the same thing earlier,

a decent turbo back exhaust will do wonders.. 3" is small for those huffers.

Edited by jangles

Sort that out! It's all over the place! Its amazing what a well thought out exhaust does for these things... I made more power on less boost on SMALLER turbo's with an exhaust that works!

i was thinking the same thing earlier,

a decent turbo back exhaust will do wonders.. 3" is small for those huffers.

i suppose when you start shoving 24psi of boost through -5's there is a fair amount of air flow!

those restrictions are probably causing the graph to table top.

the exhaust does sound quite full of air when at WOT.

at least now we know that 3in will flow 350rwkw but at slightly higher boost.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As you're looking at using a Link ECU, then large injectors are not a problem. But there's not really any need to go 1000s on an RB20 unless you're planning >>600HP on E85, which would seem unlikely. There are other options for injectors. The Xspurt ones are available from a number of places and you can get them in the mid 600s and 725cc, which is probably a sensible place to be. These are all EV14 based. If you are not using the stock AFM (at all, which would be the case with a Link) then a large turbo intake pipe to suit the ATR turbos is not an obstacle, so you should use one instead of a highflow. Results will be better.
    • Hey guys,  I'm after some advice and this here is the best place to get it imo. I was a member a looong time ago under another account, with a lost email address. Its nice to jump back on and see some of the same names still giving good advice.  I mothballed my car when i moved to perth in 2013, and after getting towed across the nullabor a few times it has officially done more km's on a trailer than under its own power. Now that i have started the process of tidying up and modifying it, i see the fruit available (and the fruiterers selling the produce) is different than back in the day. hence my questions, as i used to 'know' what to get and now, i'm not so sure. Engine wise the car (92 gtst) has a walbro 255, k+n, fmic, cam gears and and turbo back 3"exhaust. Wish list is a Hypergear high flow or ATR43G1, Link G4x and some newer injectors before a tune up. My goals are modest, only low 200's power wise. i know i could achieve this with less, but i've been swapping out old for new where i can. Every cooling hose has been replaced, along with mani gaskets, WP, thermostat and radiator, fuel pump and timing belt, tensioner and idler, and i rebuilt the steering rack. Regarding the injectors, the fruiterers all seem to sell what used to be considered quite large injectors. There are a lot of options for bosch 1000cc EV14's, and i would like to know if that is a suitable choice for my build. Is modern injector design good enough to run these at the low duty cycles that i likely would be? is there a downside to running a too large injector these days? or, would there be an upside to running a smaller injector at higher duty cycle? I can see that there are smaller injectors still available, but the ones i have seen specifically marketed for RB's are pretty large (see: https://golebysparts.au/collections/fuel-rail-injector-kits/products/nissan-rb20-fuel-rail-bosch-980cc-1150cc-injectors-turbosmart-fpr800-regulator-kit), and i dont know enough about them to say one not marketed for RB's would fit or not. I have searched the forums, and amongst all the posts on older tech, I did see gtsboy recommend EV14's, but no size was mentioned... again, i'm not clear on if the smaller size bosch injectors are also EV14's as they do look similar.  also, if someone can recommend a tuner familiar with RB's in the Geelong or West Melbourne area i'd appreciate it. Thanks in advance guys. Cheers, Rowdy  
    • FWIW the depth of the groove in the rubber pad is not super essential, the blocks are rubber and squish a bit. If you are worried an angle grinder will make a deeper groove quick smart
    • I mean, if you were to move the jacking points away from the original location, that is, away from the wheels and closer to the centreline of the car, then it will be more likely to overbalance and tip off the supports. Same as we talked about before. I was talking about moving for-aft. If the sill is bent outward or inward, then the car would obviously look unstraight from the outside. Hopefully that hasn't happened either. Again, you can do comparative measurements from the chassis rails to see if there is much deflection.
    • Can you elaborate what you mean with your first sentence? I meant move as in the bulge kinda seemed like it got pulled "outward" meaning it got pulled down and to the side with the jacking rail itself, so the load bearing bulge now sits lower than usual and is not level with the sill on the other side of the jack point. Either that or the jacking rail just got pushed in a good bit.
×
×
  • Create New...