Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Moderators please move this post if it isn't in the correct location.

For sale is my 1993 GTR rolling shell; I am the first owner of this car in Australia and I have had this for approximately 8 years. The car comes complete with everything minus engine, gearbox, rear wing, cooler and radiator. Apart from these items the car will come complete. Looking at the current market I decided to remove all the aftermarket parts on the car as I know I will not fetch a decent price to come close to all I have spent on the car. The engine alone set me back 25k and will be sold separately.

THIS CAR IS REGISTERABLE AND IS COMPLIED all it needs is an engine and gearbox and you'll have a late model GTR for under 15k.

I am able to help source an engine and gearbox for the buyer if requested.

Extras:

  • Adjustable Suspension
  • Roll Cage
  • Brand new OBX seats (front passenger and driver)
  • OZ Racing 17X9.5 rims
  • Mines Cluster
  • Mines centre gauges
  • Front sway bar
  • Project Mu brake pads
  • Jasma 3.5" cat back exhaust

Condition:

The body is perfectly straight with no dints and the engine bay has been painted black to enhance the look of the polished piping I was using. Interior is in very good condition with no holes and wear. The body colour is also perfect with no major scratches however the clear is fading on the tail lights which I will have fixed upon purchase. The lower lip of the front bar is scuffed however along with the tail lights they will be touched up.

Note:

The car still has an outstanding EPA notice which can easily be cleared with a standard motor put in. As Bride race seats were in car (not included), I will include brand new set of OBX seats for the front driver and passenger seats. Everything will be included to clear the EPA notice; such as standard exhaust and front pipes.

Reason for sale:

I have a new job which provides a company car for me and along with this I no longer have time for this project.

Location:

SE Melbourne

Delivery:

Buyer to organize pick up.

Price:

$9500

Please NO TIME WASTERS, if anyone would like to talk price please do so via PM or Email me.

The car will not be parted out.

2646367920064171239S425x425Q85.jpg2153428370064171239S425x425Q85.jpg2011289060064171239S425x425Q85.jpg2348703590064171239S425x425Q85.jpg2336903940064171239S425x425Q85.jpg2164443970064171239S425x425Q85.jpg2750045350064171239S425x425Q85.jpg2454350060064171239S425x425Q85.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/350266-1993-gtr-rolling-shell-with-extras/
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 year later...

Hi, can you send me some pics of your engine bay? I need to work out what is missing on mine then I can buy the parts off you if you decide to strip it.

cheers, troy

Edited by rb20-into-mr30=
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 months later...
  • 5 weeks later...

I really am sorry guys, I don't get onto the forum much at all these days. Please feel free to call me on 0419 018 512 if you need to discuss. Once again my apologies for not getting back to people!

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duh... to answer my own silly question, it's actually described in the FSM... ...400 pages away at the end of the manual, for RB25DE/DET signal descriptions, it cites the TPSwitch signal action, is dependent on the TPSensor value ~ this tends to infer the builtin POT voltage signal is the primary, and the switches are fallback/secondary should the POT fail/TPSensor signal lost (and switch alone with no TPSensor signal allows for base idle speed setting).... makes sense... they (TPS units) used to fail/wear the POT with time, they're not exactly built to last ~ having the switch as a redundancy gets around this...(or, it's less likely both signals would be lost as they're on different power rails)... and of course wrt RB26DETT, you have to electrically disconnect the IACV solenoid from the harness, to defeat idle air control...  
    • Dose is unaware just how much fun 145-150kw would be in a 2.5L NC MX5. It would be one of the most fun things to drive to ever grace SAU.
    • Same thought crossed my mind ~ depends on how one connotes 'stalling'...ie; gets a rough/stumbling idle as it get warm until it stalls... or... idles ok and simply falls-over when it gets to temp... ...you can test the whole circuit with a couple of resistors ...unplug coolant temp sensor, bridge terminals with a 2K7 resistor (ECU will do cold start), or with engine warm bridge with a 330R resistor (ECU will consider engine to be at normal operating temp)...it's a quick way to check wiring integrity/ECU response when you don't have a multimeter handy ...
    • They also make them with the motor mounted on the side 
    • Just be warned that that turbo will not be a direct re-fit to the car. The exhaust housing is, of course, in the same place. It has to be - it's bolted to the exhaust manifold. So the dump will fit up. But the centre housing is not as long, so the comp housing will move backwards. This will affect both the turbo inlet and the outlet. There is fab work that needs to be done. Yes. it has one, it should have one. Paper gasket.
×
×
  • Create New...