Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So Im contemplating selling the 34 as i just dont use it much and might put the money into something else.

Have owned this car for over 5year's, were the 1st Australian owners, bought it from Autoworx in wanagara. Was the mrs car for 4 1/2 years, i got it mid last year and did all the mods. Has done approx 500-600km's since ive done them all. Has realativley high kays but the mrs did a lot of perth trips etc, has allways been serviced regularly as it needed to be reliable being the family car with the 2 kids, never let us down been a great car.

Has never been boosted.

Anyway more spec's:

1998 Model

168,xxxk's

Manual now but was auto, converted using R33 gear for the cheaper cost of clutchs

Metalic black

Full Nismo lip kit

Origin Style lip spoiler

18x9.5 + 15 JIC mags

235/40 tyres all round with decent tread left

HKS coilovers (near new from JPC)

HKS twin plate (used but heaps of meat left)

ISC castor rods (new)

ISC hicas cancellor (new)

ISC rear camber arms (~ 3000km's, had em in my stagea)

Cazman traction rods (new)

Cusco front upper camber arms (currently not in the car and used)

K&N Panel filter

URAS extra lock spacers

Alarm with central locking and inbuilt turbo timer

Splitfires

Diff is shimmed and basically locked

Full 3inch exhaust

All new fluids and filters, oil, fuel, g/box, coolant, plugs, diff etc

Comes with Nistune board not fitted

Comes with a walboro pump not fitted

Comes with some random spares

I did all the suspension first and was going to do power mods later but never got there. The back end has been fully aligned and the car grips really well.

Very sad to see this thing go as it has an awesome tough stance, but i just dont use it often enough.

Now the car wont be ready for a while as it needs some paint work as it was keyed on the drivers side and i was going to get the holes welded up and the whole thing buffed before sale, if someone wanted to get this done themselves then the price will reflect this.

Chasing $18,000ono may consider trades for something i can track, but would want at least 10k my way.

0419943997

IMAG0085.jpg

IMAG0084.jpg

IMAG0086.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/350302-r34-4-door/
Share on other sites

6 months rego paid today.

And also has 2 new Nissan Tie rod ends and a new battery.

if you still have it, and you are flexible on price i might think about gettn this when i get back from working nxt month. can you pm me some more pics bro?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/350302-r34-4-door/#findComment-5631741
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sadly I can confirm if you are actually seeking to drift, you will quite easily spin up one wheel. Even if you're going in a straight line. I am not entirely sure of the metrics/terminology here but there's only a certain amount that the helical will actually spin both wheels. I've seen it on video with my own car where two lines of smoke switch over to just one after you really get in to it. Unlike with a clutch diff where you can keep your foot planted until the car regains grip, in my experience with the helical you want to be utilizing traction control allowing LIMITED slip or lifting (partially) when you start to spin up both tyres with a Nissan helical. Which makes them pretty sub optimal for drifting duty. That said... this is probably a helical on numbers alone. Just put the Kazz in
    • Let's just fix the problem by f**king the rest of the gearbox.
    • Unlikely, as per Greg's post. This is not helical diff behaviour unless one wheel is up off the ground. Shimming what? You don't "shim" a mechanical LSD. Probably not in the sense that you have heard of people "shimming" a diff. And the process that Nissan f**kwits call "shimming" a diff involves super-preloading a VLSD cartridge against the side of the diff to create a friction/wear point (in a place that it wasn't supposed to have one) to make the sloppy, useless, viscous diff into a hybrid viscous/mech abortion. In case it isn't clear, I consider the process to be stupid. Nike.
    • How much does the shifter move when the car is in gear with the engine off? If it is more than about 1cm you need to replace your shifter bush. Your shifts will just get crunchier, not faster, with a short shifter unless you also rebuild the whole box
    • I should video mine, will prob do it tomorrow    Between 1st and 3rd, you could fit another two gears. That is how loose and wobbly it is   horrible:(
×
×
  • Create New...