Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all, just after some help..

I have been planning on doing an upgrade to all the undercar parts (arms, links etc..) for a while, as I think some are a bit damaged from age/hard driving/thrashing and a minor crash in the last few years (myself, but apparently an old owner had a minor bit of damage as well), anyway I think it's time for an upgrade.

What my question is is exactly what parts are there under the car in terms of links, arms, etc...

I understand that there is front upper and lower and rear upper and lower control arms, traction rods etc. etc. but i've just been a bit concerned cos i'm using RHDJapan as a parts supplier, but I'm actually unsure what to buy as from what i can gather, parts go under different names?

Basically I want to upgrade everything for adjustability, and also to run it round a track every so often, so exactly what parts are under there?

Oh, and I have the HICAS locked if it helps..

Any help appreciated.

I'll start it off with

Front upper and lower control arms

Rear upper and lower control arms

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/350317-undercar-steering-and-handling-help/
Share on other sites

unfortunately....that is a big question. the good news is, if you do go through with it you will probably be amazed with how much better the car feels.

Front Suspension

Springs

Shocks. There is a rubber bush at the top and bottom. In a skyline this does not have a direct effect on the suspension geometry unlike in strut suspension. It can still cause a "knock" noise

Sway Bars. There are 2 ball joints at each side and 2x "D" bushes that clamp it to the subframe. You can get kits for these from many suppliers.

Upper control arm. I am not familiar with the 33 GTST upper arm. In a 32 GTR it has bushes which flog out very easily. I replace mine about twice a season. You can get them locally.

Lower control arm. Also not really familiar with 33 gtst. On a 32 GTR it has 2 ball joints, 1 inner and 1 outer. Neither are readily available except from nissan (and expensive). The good news is they last well

Caster Rod. Has large bushes at the chasis end. Replacements readily available locally, or use a replacement arm with rose joints

Steering rack. Has 2 bushes holding it to the car. Has inner and outer "tie rod ends", both of which can wear. You can get non-genuine ones locally. There is a ball joint at the hub that the tie rod end bolts to, it also wears.

Rear. The front was easy.

Springs.

Shocks. Same as the front. A bush in the strut top, and at the bottom of the shock.

Sway Bars. Similar to the front - D bushes attaching it to the car. links with 2 ball joints.

Upper Control Arm. Bushes at the inner and outer end. Rose joint options to replace the arm

Upper Traction Arm. Bushes at the inner and outer end. Rose joint options to replace the arm

Lower Control Arm. 2 Bushes at the inner end. Ball joint at the outer end. I think they are hard to find in rose-joints for 33 Gtst

Steering Rack. Inner and outer rack ends, some are available locally. Also ball joints at the hub.

Brands to look at: Whiteline, Whiteline plus (noltec), Superpro make "nolathene" bushes which are a fair bit harder than factory, and are often adjustable. You can also get nissan or nismo (similar but a little harder) but very expensive. Or you can replace the whole suspension arm with one of the china aftermarket arms which have "rose-joints" at each end. These are tighter, harsher and will wear out sooner, but are cheap and accurate.

Driveline - cv joints in each driveshaft, tailshaft CV joints and uni joint. Gearbox mount. Engine mounts. Diff bushes for front and rear mounts.

I have replaced every one of the items above on my race car....and it was worth it. Handling is much more precise and predictable as you would expect for 20yo parts.

  • Like 1

thanks a ton Duncan, that really helped me out heaps... It just doesn't handle like it used to since it was crashed, steering seems a tad sluggish and unresponsive. The mechanic is going to have a good solid look over it all..

Any recommendations for tie rods or anything like that? I had a look through RHDJapan, and there are tons of them: Kazama, Nismo, GT-One Motorsports, Cusco, URAS, Tein, Ikeya Formula (Rather exxy but apparently the best in terms of quality), some by Powered by Max, Moonface Racing, Yanack or Trust!!

I was thinking already about whiteline bars, and upgrading bushings where possible, the car is reasonably low already (100mm from the ground, at legal minimum height), I just want it to handle a tad better as it was partially why the crash occurred (that and me being a dickhead in the wet, learnt my lesson not to do that on shitty tyres anymore!!)

Also, roughly how much did you end up spending, from rough guesses it would have been between 2 and 3 grand? or a bit more?

Also, just curious as to what a transverse arm is classified as? it's a relatively straight bar but im just unsure whether it's a control arm or something like that?

I'm brilliant at motor stuff but when it comes to handling i'm a hopeless case!!!

Also, just curious as to what a transverse arm is classified as? it's a relatively straight bar but im just unsure whether it's a control arm or something like that?

I'm brilliant at motor stuff but when it comes to handling i'm a hopeless case!!!

Transverse arms are usually referred to as control arms. The front has two - upper & lower.

The rear has three. A lower arm and two upper arms. The front upper arm is usually known as a the traction arm/rod.

The thing in the previous post is a castor rod and or tension rod.

yeah DJR81 is on the money, nismo does most of these parts upgraded through RHDJapan but only the control/transverse arms, otherwise for tie rods and such I'm probably going to have to go non-Nissan.

Thanks for the help though

Going back to the original post - you said you wanted to upgrade everything for adjustability. A couple points

1. You dont really need to.

2. Much of the Nismo stuff doesn't adjust anyway.

If stuff is flogged out by all means replace it. But replacing stuff for the sake of it is expensive.

Nismo stuff is here:

http://www.nismo.co.jp/en/products/competition/lb/skyliner33.html

... It just doesn't handle like it used to since it was crashed, steering seems a tad sluggish and unresponsive.....

I wold look at the steering rack itself being bent. especially if it doesn't return to centre very well.

The list I posted in adjustable aftermarket bushes would be $3-6k depending on if it is yourself or a workshop doing it. A huge job to do yourself with lots of findly and tricky jobs

If stuff is flogged out by all means replace it. But replacing stuff for the sake of it is expensive.

I agree....but most stuff is flogged out after 15 years and 150000klm

  • 3 months later...

Thread revival from the dead, has anyone used the powered by max gear? Or more to the point the solid subframe risers listed on their site here http://www.gtfactory.jp/cms/page.php?17

How would the solid bushes compare to whiteline plus rubber replacements on a sunday driver/circuit semi-timer? I understand there would be a heap more noise and vibration feel coming through, but would they have any other effect?

  • 5 months later...

sloth - just noticed your post after trawling thru for the list of parts, I can't vouch for anyone using Powered by Max but I do hear they're good (i'm buying a few of their shirts, part of my new wardrobe update = tons of obscure JDM brands! :P)

as for the risers, I have the subframe bushing things the solid ones that slip either side and they make a definite difference, more noticeable if you don't have ridiculously over-stiff springs like mine (they're on the list after paint/panel and some fat Work rims :D) but it makes the arse end much more predictable if you're getting it out a bit, that with Hicas lock definitely is a noticeable change

  • 3 months later...

Raysboostin - Try this site, it's a HICAS lock bar with modified rack ends for it as well, try this bad boy out for size :

http://www.driftworks.com/shop/driftworks-total-hicas-eliminator-kit-for-nissan.html

This is the full kit with poly bushes, and the arms. It says for S13/14 or whatever on the site but it will fit anything with HICAS :)

I'm ordering a set in the next few weeks, full kit comes to around $400 with freight from britain

Raysboostin - Try this site, it's a HICAS lock bar with modified rack ends for it as well, try this bad boy out for size :

http://www.driftwork...for-nissan.html

This is the full kit with poly bushes, and the arms. It says for S13/14 or whatever on the site but it will fit anything with HICAS :)

I'm ordering a set in the next few weeks, full kit comes to around $400 with freight from britain

cool

let us know how yours turns out.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Jump into the wasteland. Plenty of random posting/chatting going on in there.
    • I did not go to GTR Festival. It's quite a long drive and the car wasn't dialed in yet. I also wanted to see how the racing portion went before going. From what I can tell the classes were not heads up, index, or bracket - just whoever has the quickest ET wins. Never heard of that sort of thing before and maybe some people like it but it's not my cup of tea. I don't suspect I'll go if that is how the racing is done. I did get the car out three times and had issues each time. Some were my error - haven't raced the car in over two years - and others were parts. Had trouble getting the clutch to slip correctly and remembering how it was set up in the Haltech. Broke some drivetrain parts as well that couldn't be fixed in a couple days to get back out. Season definitely didn't end the way I wanted but at least the bearings are still fine! Not a fleck of material in the filter. Really hoping next year is the year I can actually test this car properly. 
    • find it funny everyone claims different fuel chains, do different things with their fuel blah blah blah. We don't have that many fuel terminals in Australia. The fuel tanker trucks drive into the terminal, fill up, and drive directly to the service station and dump out. The majority of fuel you get, is coming out of the same terminals. The variation is actually at the individual service stations and how good their tanks are, as well as how much turn over they actually have. Older fuel stations, that haven't had their tanks replaced are going to end up with the worst fuel. Also a lot of older stations have shit design, and shit maintenance, and end up with more water absorption into the tank. This is when you then get a bad batch of fuel. Other shit things happen, like tanker drivers have a f**k up, and starting to unload the wrong compartment on their truck into the wrong tank. 
    • Yeah go with that one 
×
×
  • Create New...