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Below is a list of the parts I have for sale. It has everything you need to do a timing belt and water pump change. I also have some Cam cover gaskets because they normally leak and I believe your meant to adjust the clearances at about the 100k mark as well.

  • Timing Belt & Water Pump Kit (Genuine Nissan Cam Seals, Genuine Nissan belt and Genuine Nissan R34 water pump
  • Genuine Nissan Timing Belt Stud Kit
  • Genuine Nissan Cam Cover Gasket Set
  • Genuine Nissan Ancillary Drive Belt Set
  • 1 Trust/Greddy Oil filter + 1 Ryco filter I have here
  • 1 tube of gasket maker stuff.

I paid Kudos about $750.00 for these parts and I already had the other filter. Nissan wanted over $950.00 for the bits needed. Im asking $550 ono and im able to post it if needed.

  • Nope 1
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

498 is for just for the timing belt and water pump kit. The items i have listed beneath were all ontop of the 498 price.

Genuine Nissan Timing Belt Stud Kit <LI>Genuine Nissan Cam Cover Gasket Set <LI>Genuine Nissan Ancillary Drive Belt Set <LI>1 Trust/Greddy Oil filter + 1 Ryco filter I have here <LI>1 tube of gasket maker stuff.

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    • Very decent bit of kit. Definitely black it out I reckon.  
    • Because people who want that are buying euros. The people with the money to buy the aftermarket heads and blocks aren’t interested in efficiency or making -7 power, they’re making well over 1,000hp and pretty much only drive them at full throttle  best way to way make money is know your customer base and what they want and don’t spend money making things they don’t want. 
    • It's not, but it does feel like a bit of a missed opportunity regardless. For example, what if the cylinder head was redesigned to fit a GDI fuel system? It's worth like two full points of compression ratio when looking at modern GDI turbo vs PFI turbo. I'm pretty reliably surprised at how much less turbo it takes to make similar power out of a modern engine vs something like an RB26. Something with roughly the same dimensions as a -7 on an S55 is making absolutely silly power numbers compared to an RB26. I know there's a ton of power loss from things like high tension rings, high viscosity oil, clutch fan, AWD standby loss, etc but it's something like 700 whp in an F80 M3 vs 400 whp in an R33 GTR. The stock TF035HL4W turbos in an F80 M3 are really rather dinky little things and that's enough to get 400 whp at 18 psi. This just seems unwise no? I thought the general approach is if you aren't knock limited the MFB50 should be held constant through the RPM range. So more timing with RPM, but less timing with more cylinder filling. A VE-based table should accordingly inverse the VE curve of the engine.
    • I've seen tunes from big name workshops with cars making in excess of 700kW and one thing that stood out to me, is that noone is bothering with torque management. Everyone is throwing in as much timing as the motor can take for a pull. Sure that yields pretty numbers on a dyno, but it's not keeping these motors together for more than a few squirts down the straight without blowing coolant or head gaskets. If tuners, paid a bit more attention and took timing out in the mid range, managed boost a bit better, you'll probably see less motors grenading. Not to name names, or anything like that, but I've seen a tune, from a pretty wild GT-R from a big name tuner and I was but perplexed on the amount of timing jammed into it. You would have expected a quite a bit less timing at peak torque versus near the limiter, but there was literally 3 degrees of difference. Sure you want to make as much as possible throughout the RPM range, but why? At the expense of blowing motors? Anyhow I think we've gone off topic enough once again lol.
    • Because that’s not what any of them are building these heads or blocks for. It’s to hold over over 1000hp at the wheels without breaking and none of that stuff is required to make power 
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