Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hai,

When taking car to be registered would i need to put on stock wheels mine are currently 18" would that pass inspection and also has xenon bulbs the rest is stock?

Also can anyone recommend a nice fat exhaust that comes out on an angle at the back but is quiet and doesnt drone.

What oil do you recommend for it and what is the code for the oil filter to use ?

Should the boost gauge go all the way to the top as mine only moves about 1/8th of the way under full boost.

Thanks )

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/350600-r34-gtt-questions/
Share on other sites

Hai,

When taking car to be registered would i need to put on stock wheels mine are currently 18" would that pass inspection and also has xenon bulbs the rest is stock?

Also can anyone recommend a nice fat exhaust that comes out on an angle at the back but is quiet and doesnt drone.

What oil do you recommend for it and what is the code for the oil filter to use ?

Should the boost gauge go all the way to the top as mine only moves about 1/8th of the way under full boost.

Thanks )

not sure about act but in wa you are alllowed your wheels to be 2 inches bigger then stock, could be diferent .

boost go will only go up to about half way if your running stck boost. which is about 7 or 8 psi

the oil and oil filter all depends on what brand you want and how much you want to pay.

Thanks for the replies. Ill check out the motul oil, the last owner was in japan apparently only used mineral oils. Any recommendations on the name/brand of full exhaust system with front pipe 3" that is quiet ? I am very new to skylines for now but would like to meet everyone else from SAU (so far only met two of the guys here from work).

Also where to get the service for timingbelt/water pump - i would do it myself but dont wanna mess around with it seems more complex than a corolla and where to purchase the timing belt/tensioner/waterpump from that isnt china brand.

:)

Edited by Bratva

Trojan Motorsport in mitchell are pretty good for services and the like.

as for rego, if it's "un-modified" you don't need to go over the pits at dickson, I took mine to "Premier Automotive" in mitchell and they passed it straight up.

If they won't let ya go over with 18's, I'm sure there's someone with a set of 17's around here you could borrow... I've got the set that came with mine, BUT 2 of the tyres are a bit bald :(

With your boost guage, you said it moves 1/8th of the way to the top? This sounds very wrong. at full boost (7psi) it should sit on the second line down from the top, 3/4 of the way to the top...

If you can avoid going over the dickson pits at all, avoid it like the plague. They seem to hate jap imports. Or at least one guy does.

If you can't avoid it, make the car look/sound as stock as possible. If you can get a stock set of wheels that's an easy one, because each time you have to come back for something they can and sometimes do find some new thing to whinge about.

Mine is modded and I took it through Premiere. I put the stock r33 rims back on for rego just in case.

Thanks for your replies will take your advices.

I fixed the gauge by finding that the hose from the tb to some sort of sensor/vacuum thingi had a crack in it, fixed that up and now i get negative boost working and positive goes nearly to the top so all good. Car drives well but only issues i see is notchy gearbox (goes in easy but is pretty notchy) and some diff whine at low speeds i can hear and lifter tick i think. CEnter console is heaps sticky and peeling i think the paint is dodge as i need to repaint it soon. Why is there what looks like a flare in my glove box lol.

When do you guys/girls meet up i need to ask 50 more questions might be easier in person :) still new to skyline and rb25

BYe!

Got the rego today! Guys did the inspection rly wanted to fail me on rear window tint and the wheels, took about 30mins to decide if they want to pass my wheels cause 18" but finally decided to let it go :) noted a few other things like broken nbumber plate lights and steering rack etc but all good. I thought they would be harsher there from hearing all the stories. Now gotta wait like 5 weeks for black number plates. Also i think they did something to my boost lol after they did their inspection my car feels like it has half the power when hits boost

I dont have a front mount where would the intercooler be located stock and the boost solenoid ?

Front drivers or passengers side. Dunno on your model.

Solenoid on the firewall or real close. Follow the tubes to see if split or off.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • UPDATE: Hi all!  As we are getting towards the end of this thread where I’ll showcase final dyno numbers and graph, I wanted to provide an update. Tao from HyperGear has done an amazing job building the custom divided T3 housing for the G30. Communication was flawless, price was great, and now the housing is estimated to arrive in 7-10 days! Very very pleased. I must add, if someone is looking for an affordable turbo and end up reading this thread, I would recommend HyperGear. Genuine brands are the way to go as their reliability is proven, performance can be predictable, and there’s a plethora of information available for specs, flow, and more. This HyperGear recommendation is based on their excellent communication, dedication, and willingness to listen to their customers. I particularly liked their ability to create custom adaptations tailored to specific needs, which is a HUGE benefit over other brands. And if we consider the HyperGear provided dyno results, it adds reassurance knowing their turbos can compete against genuine brands. Next update will be after the dyno!  
    • I've previously seen people post up "dress up bolt kits" for RBs but don't remember seeing them specify the full contents. I can only really suggest you grab the verniers and start measuring, and keep in mind the cam cover and timing cover bolts are both quite specific with a wider unthreaded section where the bushes sit, that will make it hard to get aftermarket replacements which tend to be all thread (set screws) or for longer bolts a flat section with a shorter threaded section at the end
    • I believe there was a similar one posted by @duggyphresh. They were re-routing their battery positive cable in the way I am also trying to achieve. Sorry, I’m new to this forum, so was a bit late to the party by a few months and so reignited the old thread, as I wanted to know how they got on with doing it.
    • Wasn't there a thread on this very subject just a few weeks ago?
    • Hi all! Looking to relocate the battery to the trunk of an R34 GTT. I want to do it using as many stock GTR components as I can (including the harness protectors from the 34 GTR that run underneath along the chassis to the engine bay). So far I’ve purchased the battery tray from a 33 GTR, as the captive weld nuts are already there just asking to be used. There is also the slight issue of now having to relocate the ABS/TC/Fuel Pump Control ECU, which in GTT’s sits right above where the battery will then sit on the tray. Has anyone already achieved this, and if you have any pics that you wouldn’t mind sharing? It would be great to see how others have done it and where you put them, as there are countless holes in the parcel shelf panel to potentially use. Just trying to get some ideas bounced around, and to help uncover any potential problems I may encounter by  my choice of location. TIA for any help!
×
×
  • Create New...