Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

so, question to anyone with an RB30 in the stag, did you have to do anything to make it fit height wise?? i have heard/read that stags have a little more space under the bonnet compared to skylines but does that mean that they will drop straight in and clear the strut brace and bonnet? or is the just less work to do to make it fit? ill be running a front facing plenum from CPC so that will make it a bit lower overall, will that be enough??

D.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/350805-rb30-stagea-question/
Share on other sites

You'll have to ask Duncan - I don't recall him having any problems. I'm about a week away (at last) from dropping the motor in. It will fit OK but I have a high rise manifold (like a 6boost) so I'm not too sure about the strut brace but we're Kiwis so we'll make it fit!

Brads has RB30/26 in his not sure if he has 4wd adapter on it as this Adds 8 to 10 mm,

but that should be cool as its Sump lower & not Block hicher,

You have to remember that if your going side intake you will have heap`s ,as there is 110mm between Motor & Strutbrace ,

there is 30 + mm between Intake on stock setup & Brace so no reason why it should be a worry .

so all engine mounts fit withount any modding like redrilling holes or anything?

was talking to the dude at the shop im getting to build my engine and he wont believe that it wont fit straight in... he's only done skylines which need the engine to be lowered.

D.

yeah mine fit straight in too 25/30, but I do have a front facing plenum. remember in most skylines it is the timing cover that hits not the intake.

only issue was clearance for the strutbrace over the high mount turbo's heat shield, and only then only a few mm.

isnt the 25DE non vct head the one that will bolt straight on to an RB30 block?? im pretty sure theres a difference anyway between vct and non vct , vct blocks have different galleries for the vct oil supply to the head which is what you have to modify to use the 30 block.

D.

Yes, the R32 RB25DE (non VCT) head bolts straight up.

My dilemma is that I have a 25/30 with the above mentioned head, in pieces, and the block is already drilled/tapped for an adapter plate (from a previous life)..

I could drop the complete Neo into the 32 but then I would have wiring/management dramas, likewise if I put the 25/30 (with non-vct head) in the Stagea.

OR, seeing as the 32 is already licensed with the 3L, I could just get a wrecker bottom end for the 32 and put the build, adapted bottom end in the wagoon.

AHHHHHHHH DECISIONS DECISIONS

Edited by bubba

well apparently the awd rb25 blocks are drilled for both awd and rwd sumps

so you could bung up the vct feed and slap the 25de head on

and slap a rwd sump on it

Edited by pipster11

Any lift in head hight a RB30 block gives would be a benefit to any larger frame low mounted turbo. Its not really the strut tower that is an issue but the chasis rail.

On my RB25 with a low mounted GT35 I have bugger all clearance between the comp cover and chasis rail, even had to manipulate some of the AC lines mounted on the rail to give the turbo better clearance.

There is more than enough clearance to the strut tower, even if it comes over another 5 or so mm. That extra clearance to the chasis rail that the added height the RB30 gives would be good.

Edited by QWK32

well apparently the awd rb25 blocks are drilled for both awd and rwd sumps

so you could bung up the vct feed and slap the 25de head on

and slap a rwd sump on it

They are but I have decided to go for a wrecker bottom end and keep the 32 a 3L, need to get it back together and move it on, will finish building the other bottom end and chuck it in the Stag once the 32 is gone.

Any lift in head hight a RB30 block gives would be a benefit to any larger frame low mounted turbo. Its not really the strut tower that is an issue but the chasis rail.

On my RB25 with a low mounted GT35 I have bugger all clearance between the comp cover and chasis rail, even had to manipulate some of the AC lines mounted on the rail to give the turbo better clearance.

There is more than enough clearance to the strut tower, even if it comes over another 5 or so mm. That extra clearance to the chasis rail that the added height the RB30 gives would be good.

awesome, thats what i wana hear.....

D.

  • 5 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sharing results from recent Liberty Walk R35 GTR, since they are still considered as somesort of a V36 Skyline. We do them turbos too. This are high flowed SS-1 models with ball bearing conversion done.  Car have managed to pull 485awkws @ 20Psi so far pushing limitations of factory built engine. The build list for R35 GTR enthusiasts as follow : HyperGear high flowed stock turbos in SS1 (G25-660 specs) Custom titanium intake pipes. Vspec performance titanium front pipes. Vspec performance 4" titanium exhaust. Upgrade fuel pumps. 1200cc injectors. Ignition coilpacks Hks intake plenum. Hks intercooler piping. Greddy intercooler. Greddy bovs. Top-secret coolant reservoir. Emtron ecu. Straight E85. Built gear box.  
    • Nah no bearings, just slip fit.  Would be a reasonably challenging but not impossible job to modify it to run bearings but I'm hoping that's not necessary as I may have well built one myself if I end up spending hours modifying it!
    • Brumbys with good shells are bloody expensive, I've looked at 2 "cheaper" cars, and walked away from both,  plus after some research spare parts are fairly sparce I'm starting to think that I missed the boat on finding a clean one that is straight (ish) and without alot rust I'm starting to think about a old Hilux as panels and other parts are much more available as they sold tens of thousands of them I use to be indecisive but now I'm not sure
    • A Brumby would probably fit a big metal toolbox in the back... this is how it begins  
    • Picked up a new OEM boot seal for the MX5 today as the old one got ripped a bit by me being a idiot by seeing if I could fit a large metal tool box in it, it didn't fit, and ripped the seal with the corner of the tool box I am still waiting on time to get the cams and new balancer installed, as well as the repairs to the boot Time will not be an issue soon though
×
×
  • Create New...