Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ME again! lol.

tried the search but does not come up with anything useful.

I noticed my clutch fan is wobbly. Does it mean it needs replacing or is it a matter of tightening it some how?

If i needs replacing i read there's different types i can get e.g viscious or something?

What would be best for my r32 gts-t?

What parts will i need?

Rough prices?

Where to get them!?

And most important is there a DIY to change it? Can't seem to find any on the forum!

Thankss!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/350850-clutch-fan-help/
Share on other sites

ME again! lol.

tried the search but does not come up with anything useful.

I noticed my clutch fan is wobbly. Does it mean it needs replacing or is it a matter of tightening it some how?

If i needs replacing i read there's different types i can get e.g viscious or something?

What would be best for my r32 gts-t?

What parts will i need?

Rough prices?

Where to get them!?

And most important is there a DIY to change it? Can't seem to find any on the forum!

Thankss!

If its stock you'll have a viscous fan that works by oil expanding in the oil galleries of the clutch which will turn the fan on and off.

Piss the shitty viscous, belt driven, power robbing SOB off and go electric on a thermostat bro.

James

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/350850-clutch-fan-help/#findComment-5630614
Share on other sites

They dont really rob much power at all, and are work better then some thermo fan setups.....

Check all the bolts, it sounds like something is wrong... Is just the plastic part with the fins loose? or the whole thing (viscus hub as well)?

Might have loose bolts on the water pump but id think if that was the case youd have lost it by now.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/350850-clutch-fan-help/#findComment-5630676
Share on other sites

The viscous hubs is effective to 4000 rpm before it slips. There isnt a 12V fan in existance that can move the same amount of air that the factory fan can, and if there were they dont make an alternator big enough to drive it. The engineers that designed the factory cooling system know what they are doing. If its in good shape it works very well.

Messing with thermostats messes with your tune too, so keep the stock temp thermostats unless your planning on making massive changes to how your tune works with temperature compensations.

Just fix the factory setup and it will be great.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/350850-clutch-fan-help/#findComment-5630757
Share on other sites

Below is the link to daviescraig part numbers for new clutch if you want to keep the original set up, I am guessing you just unbolt your old fan and remove the clutch and bolt the new one in.

http://www.daviescra...uide%202010.pdf

I think you may need a 5265 http://www.daviescra...65-details.aspx and it looks like they are about $194.04 from that site.

If you want to got electric fans like i did $366.00 for 2 x 12" fans plus $68.77 for the manual thermal switch so thats = $434.77 plus postage i guess, then you would also need to get it all wired up for them to work.

As I can do wiring this part didn't cost me anything.....

Edited by pfcr33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/350850-clutch-fan-help/#findComment-5630892
Share on other sites

The viscous hubs is effective to 4000 rpm before it slips. There isnt a 12V fan in existance that can move the same amount of air that the factory fan can, and if there were they dont make an alternator big enough to drive it. The engineers that designed the factory cooling system know what they are doing. If its in good shape it works very well.

Messing with thermostats messes with your tune too, so keep the stock temp thermostats unless your planning on making massive changes to how your tune works with temperature compensations.

Just fix the factory setup and it will be great.

agreed^^^

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/350850-clutch-fan-help/#findComment-5631015
Share on other sites

Piss the shitty viscous, belt driven, power robbing SOB off and go electric on a thermostat bro.

Unless you fully understand the principle for the usse of a thermo fan, and know how to properly install it and properly operate it, stick with the factory setup. I'm sure Nissan knew what they were doing when they decided on the use of the viscous clutch type against a thermo setup.
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/350850-clutch-fan-help/#findComment-5631577
Share on other sites

also adding more load to the alternator also robs the engine of power, so getting rid of a clutch fan in favour of thermos doesn't give you that much of a power gain. i used to be able to stall my festiva with my sound system turned right up.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/350850-clutch-fan-help/#findComment-5631675
Share on other sites

What you need is

1. New fan clutch (Get a davies craig one as mentioned above)

2. New radiator fan shroud

3. Timing belt cover with CAS sensor rubber seal

4. 3 bolts for the CAS sensor... not 1.

All of these things are critical. 3 especially, as RB's are interference motors. All it will take is a bolt or socket dropped into the timing belt area and you will slip or break the timing belt and destroy your engine.

What you have there is the downside of a modified vehicle. So many modified vehicles are mess with, without any comprehension of what happens when things go wrong... or with little to no regard for how Nissan designed them.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/350850-clutch-fan-help/#findComment-5632607
Share on other sites

What you need is

1. New fan clutch (Get a davies craig one as mentioned above)

2. New radiator fan shroud

3. Timing belt cover with CAS sensor rubber seal

4. 3 bolts for the CAS sensor... not 1.

All of these things are critical. 3 especially, as RB's are interference motors. All it will take is a bolt or socket dropped into the timing belt area and you will slip or break the timing belt and destroy your engine.

What you have there is the downside of a modified vehicle. So many modified vehicles are mess with, without any comprehension of what happens when things go wrong... or with little to no regard for how Nissan designed them.

1. is a fan shroud necessary? i've got an aftermarket radiator? don't think it will bolt on to it?

2. is the clear covers ive seen okay? eg.(unless someone can refer me to get a cheaper/better on else where) http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=370435414621&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

3. there only 2 bolts holding the cas. for the 3rd would nissan dealer stock them or i'd have to go wreckers or something? (btw... it seem even the metal thing holding the cas also wobbles??)

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/350850-clutch-fan-help/#findComment-5632710
Share on other sites

I generally prefer original parts as they fit better, rather than some cheap aftermarket thing. You can probably pickup a stock cover cheap 2nd hand from someone else that bought a clear one.

You need this gasket too.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Nissan-OE-RB25DET-Cam-Angle-Sensor-CAS-Seal-Gasket-RB25-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2eb20ef2f9QQitemZ200555819769QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

The gasket and the cover together are a spacer that goes between the cas mount and the cas. When its mounted properly it shouldnt move. You obviously need a timing light to align it correctly as well.

The fan shroud is meant to pull air through your entire radiator, not just a small section in front of the fan. Larger cores have more coolant volume and when the air flow is sufficent they can lower coolant temps faster than a thin stock core. But because they are thicker cores the air flows through them less easily. So you actually need a shroud more for an aftermarket core for low speed driving than you would for a stock core. Above 80km/h the fan is mostly not in use.

There is a lot more to it than that though. The thermostat of the engine, the engines ideal operating temp, the heatsync on the front of the thermally activated clutch fan, the rpm of the fan and the load of the fan itself all work together in concert to work properly. Nissan design these things very carefully and the complexity of it goes a lot further than most realise. This is why stock is best for reliability and consistancy, and also why most aftermarket/custom setups only work in specific situations. Modify something and you upset the balance Nissan created.

Edited by GTRNUR
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/350850-clutch-fan-help/#findComment-5632739
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Could someone post some pictures of the factory Jack , tools, spare tire and how they were in a 1998 ER34 2 door skyline originally?
    • UPDATE: Hi all!  As we are getting towards the end of this thread where I’ll showcase final dyno numbers and graph, I wanted to provide an update. Tao from HyperGear has done an amazing job building the custom divided T3 housing for the G30. Communication was flawless, price was great, and now the housing is estimated to arrive in 7-10 days! Very very pleased. I must add, if someone is looking for an affordable turbo and end up reading this thread, I would recommend HyperGear. Genuine brands are the way to go as their proven reliability, predictable performance, and there’s a plethora of information available for specs, flow, and more. This HyperGear recommendation is based on their excellent communication, dedication, and willingness to listen to their customers. I particularly liked their ability to create custom adaptations tailored to specific needs, which is a HUGE benefit over other brands. And if we consider the HyperGear provided dyno results, it adds reassurance knowing their turbos can compete against genuine brands. Next update will be after the dyno!  
    • I've previously seen people post up "dress up bolt kits" for RBs but don't remember seeing them specify the full contents. I can only really suggest you grab the verniers and start measuring, and keep in mind the cam cover and timing cover bolts are both quite specific with a wider unthreaded section where the bushes sit, that will make it hard to get aftermarket replacements which tend to be all thread (set screws) or for longer bolts a flat section with a shorter threaded section at the end
    • I believe there was a similar one posted by @duggyphresh. They were re-routing their battery positive cable in the way I am also trying to achieve. Sorry, I’m new to this forum, so was a bit late to the party by a few months and so reignited the old thread, as I wanted to know how they got on with doing it.
×
×
  • Create New...