Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

I have decided to get a sound system for my r34, and am in need of a few questions to be answered.

I have decided to get a full alpine setup:

INA-W900E (Headunit)

SPX-17 PRO (Front speakers)

SPR-17C (Rear speakers)

PDX-1.1000 (Amp for sub)

PDX-4.150 (Amp for speakers)

The first question is will the front speakers fit into the door without mods, and will the rears fit without mods?

The second is, will having rear speakers have much difference with this setup, or should I just stay with the stock ones?

The third question is should I get one sub or two?

And finally, when I have the aforementioned sub, will I need the two amps mentioned or just run everything on the 4 channel amp?

Thanks guys,

Jacob

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/350852-help-with-sound-system-setup/
Share on other sites

having better that stock speakers in the back will deffinately enhance your sound quality.. run all your in car speakers of the 4 channel amp.. you will need a seperate amp for sub(s) as the 4 channel amp wont have the required LPF and you will destroy them.. also one amp will do fine for 2 subs but your best bet is just buy one decent sub an still have boot space.. i made 142Db with one 12' sub and a 800wrms amp.. not running at max levels either

this is something to consider to save some dosh, alpines offer on type x

alpine au

and yes if installed by a pro it will fit, they need mdf mounts to be solid in the doors

a little dynamat type soundeadner would be advised at least in the doors

ditch the stock speakers in all cases

run the 4 channel to the 4 inside

mono block to subs

enjoy

Hi Jacob,

I used to work in the Car Audio Industry, try Ang's Audio Shop in Klemzig http://www.angs.com.au/ . He is an Alpine dealer and will be able to help you out. You should be able to find all of those products in your vehicle. Its also best to get custom MDF baffle made for the speakers in the front rather than the standard plastic ones as you have much clearing mid base as well as improved sealing the speaker enclosure (inner door).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It was roughly 3.5 hours.    car went in around 11:00 and I was done around 2:30 He did the initial runs, install the BC and then Nistune install and tune.  The best part was sitting in the lobby and hearing the skyline on full throttle at the dyno 😂😂
    • Glad it all went smooth. How long did the tuning process take?
    • Yeah that was kind of the same feedback my tuner gave me.  the boost tee is until I can sort out my plan for the electronic boost controller and what I’d get, where I’d mount the dash etc.  I’m happy with this until I can figure it out. Not a big fan of the A-pillar gauges. I’d like to get a clean install of the boost gauge - something digital like GFB.  Something like that might fit neatly where the ashtray is and look clean. I feel like replacing the OEM triple gauge is a bit extreme for a weekender like my skyline. And it’s not making crazy power to need all the additional sensors/gauges. 
    • I'm about to swap my box to Tremec T56 Magnum F & initially thinking of re-using my DCS twin plate (can get it re centred for the bigger spline) but it's been called out the box will be noisy (rattle) as the clutch is unsprung.  So I'm doing as much research as possible. I'm not so worried about holding the power as I'll go the track version which on paper will hold the maybe 1000hp I make. It's the longevity I worry about. DCS told me they don't use a sprung centre as it's just something that can break. The uni clutch has a very complicated sprung centre. Any one had or heard about any issues with it failing? Thanks in advance.
    • Auto is at least 10% (from my real, actual experience with different torque converters and manual on the same setup) ~185rwkw at 11.6psi (peak!) is entirely what one would expect without a FMIC or anything else on the intake, it does bleed off towards the higher RPM so it's what, 9psi there? Note: There is nothing that can be done about this with a manual boost tee. If you want to hold it steady and gain more top end, well - You will need electronic boost control.....
×
×
  • Create New...