Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What are people thoughts on demos? I know they are driven hard and stuff but after doing the calculation buying a demo is something which I will need to do or buy private.

I've seen a demo Evo x with only 500km on the clock in the same colour and everything I want. Price is within budget also.

I will be getting the car fully inspected and try get extended warranty. From what I've read online buying a demo is frowned upon. If it's a good deal and full warranty offered and inspection comes back positive would that be good?

Cheers and thanks for your opinions as they are always extremely helpful.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/350912-demo-cars/
Share on other sites

Bit of a lottery here.

It can depend on the Dealership MD's policy all the way down the line to the part-time salesman, as to whether or not the car has been fanged at cold temp.

Mitsubishi has been well known to sell off cars at cheaper prices when 'plated' the previous year ie. I presume this car is a 2010 complied car.

Many other manufacturers learned from Mitsubishi that it'd be better to sell off the previous year's cars by adding extras. This way, depreciation is reduced.

However, I'd still rather an EVO X demo (from Mitsubishi) if it checks out well, than a Focus RS demo (from Ford) after my sister's arguments with Ford over her Focus demo.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/350912-demo-cars/#findComment-5631332
Share on other sites

f**k!!

Had a long reply typed out and lost the f**ker!!

Long story short - demos are perfectly safe., You can't kill an EVO X in 500km no matter how hard you try

It still has warranty

By all means negotiate a better deal if you can, but if you're saving thousands, then it is a good buy.

Remember though that you can negotiate on price for a new model off the floor. Play a few car yards off against each other. YOu should be able to get a new car on the road for $5k less than RRP if you haggle well enough, so that;s worth doing. Find a dealer who is keen to sell, specially something that has been on the floor for a while, and offer them something silly (like I said, something like $5k off the RRP, or maybe even more - do your homework). Let them know you're ready to sign on the dotted line, and be prepared to walk if they can't meet your offer. It's worked for me int he past.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/350912-demo-cars/#findComment-5631423
Share on other sites

i also got few mates only buy Demo and never had problem

Gven there KM are few "with 1000 - 2000KM"

I mean Cars are design to do 100,000's KM, so it very hard to really stuff them up in 500KM, given you get warranty and inspection

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/350912-demo-cars/#findComment-5631467
Share on other sites

Non-sports cars, sure why not. People demo them for the comfort, overall driving feel, space etc.

Sports cars on the other hand...dealer is trying to sell it as a sports car, on performance merits. The Evo has to be shown to be better than that 370Z you just test drove etc. And all the stories I hear of people going for test drives and having the salesman tell them to put some effort into it...totally put me off sports car demos. Auto maybe, assuming the engine hasn't been cold thrashed and switched off straight after as its form of "running in period". Sure, the car might last its warranty period, but I'd like it to last longer...and don't want the headaches of dealing with warranty issues anyway. Manual, no. Most people can't drive a manual anywhere as well as it should be.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/350912-demo-cars/#findComment-5631472
Share on other sites

Birds you're paranoid.

I';ve bought Demo WRX's, as have several friends. None had a problem. When I test drove the WRX, the saleswoman kept telling me to give it heaps. I drove it fast, but not harshly. I imagine it had been given a pizzling by other test drivers, and yet the car didn't suffer any ill effects.

Do you really think that test drivers are going to go nuts in a test drive? Small percentage will, but in general, no. Also, by the time you get back from a test drive, and park the car in the dealer's yard, 99% of them will have cooled down anyway. Usually the dealer will drive out of the lot (most of their insurance won't cover a customer driving out of the lot) and drive a short distance before handing over to you. This gives the car time to warm up.

Plenty of people have lots of problems with non-demo cars too, remember.

$3,200 is a good saving, definitely worth having a demo for. However, I reckon you could get them to knock at least 50% of the difference off a new model. If they have a new one in stock, offer them $500 moe than the demo as your best offer. As I said, be prepared to walk away. If they don't have one in stock tell them you want a different colour etc. and again offer them $500 above the demo price for a new one, and you'll sign the paperwork today. If they know you;re serious, then a decent dealer won't let you get away.

My most recent Rex was negotiated after the dealer had given me his best offer. WHen he found out I was buying one off another dealer for $2k less than his absolute best, bottom dollar, lose money deal, he knocked $100 off the other guy's deal just to make the sale. This was a few weeks after the current model had hit the showroom, so they were still hot sellers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/350912-demo-cars/#findComment-5631589
Share on other sites

Further down the track, a 2011 plated car will be worth more than a 2010 plated car > so saving $3200 now can come back and bite you - just a little bit.

It's the 19th Jan today + car sales are slow in Jan sooo.........

Can you rock up on Monday 31st January - when they have to make monthly quotas - and ask for $1200 off for the 2011 plated car (and throw in extras like floor mats and other accessories)?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/350912-demo-cars/#findComment-5631738
Share on other sites

You have to ask yourself, why are you buying a performance oriented car? Are you buying it to drive Ms Daisy, i seriously doubt it. Obviously you wanna do some spirited driving whether it be on track or road i dont advise the latter.

So at the end of the day your buying a car which has been bu8ilt to withstand harsh treatment no matter what and still survive another day. These days cars dont need to be warmed up, i drove my GTR stone cold for years with no problems and the motor still had excellent compression.

So my point is the demo car hasnt been treated any differently than what you would treat it like when you buy it off the showrrom floor. Anything else and ur just buying a penis extension.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/350912-demo-cars/#findComment-5631824
Share on other sites

Camry - no problem, Evo - maybe, but still I hardly expect redlining the car during a demo drive, they'd probably push it up to 6000rpm though.

I would think those inspections would just waste your money, if you're that paranoid then save a little longer and buy new. if you're not fussed by someone previously having a go in your car then buy a demo to save a bit, bearing in mind the reduction in resale due to old plates and 2nd owner.

The dealer always says they can only knock off a little, but the reality is the demo probably needs to be gone to make way for an MY11 demo and they want to get rid of it. Unless I was saving at least 10% off the new price I wouldn't bother, everyone knows a car loses that amount as soon as it's reg'd.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/350912-demo-cars/#findComment-5632376
Share on other sites

Seems like the plan is to try and negotiate cheaper price for demo. $3200 saving only on a new car seems a little low. Considering even though the low km's it is still technically a used car and used cars depreciate almost instantly by up to 20%.

So correct me if I'm wrong. Offering a price 20% lower than recommended retail would not be put of line. Maybe even push for a little bit

more considering the car is driven by the sales manager supposedly.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/350912-demo-cars/#findComment-5632379
Share on other sites

Camry - no problem, Evo - maybe, but still I hardly expect redlining the car during a demo drive, they'd probably push it up to 6000rpm though.

I would think those inspections would just waste your money, if you're that paranoid then save a little longer and buy new. if you're not fussed by someone previously having a go in your car then buy a demo to save a bit, bearing in mind the reduction in resale due to old plates and 2nd owner.

The dealer always says they can only knock off a little, but the reality is the demo probably needs to be gone to make way for an MY11 demo and they want to get rid of it. Unless I was saving at least 10% off the new price I wouldn't bother, everyone knows a car loses that amount as soon as it's reg'd.

I don't think a $200 inspection is a waste when your saving a few thousand. Unfortunately I have heard of a time when a repairable write off was being passed off as a demo. So better to be safe then buy a lemon.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/350912-demo-cars/#findComment-5632396
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hows your intake piping? Are you still running stock? Having in the stock AFM position would mean, if the BOV was shut/venting out, it'd create the almost stalling kind of effect right // "the rich pulse behaviour" due to MAF thinking air is flowing ? But this would be better than having the bov in the stock position + MAF on/just before cross over piping right?
    • Essentially, yes. Although I wouldn't put the AFM on the crossover pipe. I'd want to put it into what amounts to the correct size tube, which is more easily done in the intercooler pipework. I bought a mount tube for card stile AFM that replaces the stock AFM - although being a cheap AliExpress knockoff, it had not flange and I had to make and weld my own. But it is the same length and diameter as the stock RB AFM, goes on my airbox, etc etc. I don't have a sick enough rig to warrant anything different, and the swap will take 5 minutes (when I finally get around to it and the injectors & the dyno tune).
    • So to summarise, the best thing to do is to move recirc to between turbo and IC, and maf on the crossover pipe. Meaning I'd need a recirc flange, drill a hole in the piping on turbo outlet area. And drill hole on crossover to fit/weld maf sensor? Either that or put the MAF on the turbo inlet right?  Is an aftermarket recirc/blowoff valve recommended? Do currently have family in Japan so could probably bring something back with maybe a cheeky lil SuperAutobacs run?
    • Yep, so far most have said that it looks like corrosion on the wall from piston not moving. Which then has probably damaged the oil rings and caused those vertical marks. The longest the engine was still after the rebuild, was the winter of 2018 - 2019, plus the boat trip to Japan. When I shipped the car, it had normal gas in the tank but before that winter pause, it had E85 in tank.  In any case, even if either one of those was the cause, it happened close to 6 years ago and the car has been driven something like 30 000kms after the fact. Again, apart from the plugs and the dip stick, there is nothing in the way the car runs that would indicate what has been going on in the engine. I am going to consult a shop and ask their opinion, what would be the best approach. I do have some access to a garage I could use to diagnose further myself, but time is very restrictive. Might end up buying another engine that could be used while this one is being remedied. Without pulling the head, it will be impossible to find out if it needs another bore, but here's to hoping a hone would suffice.  Goddamnit, I would really have preferred this not happening.  
    • Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
×
×
  • Create New...