Angry With Car Service R34Gtt Auto

[robjay]

Hi Folks,

I have just had a service at **PM ME FOR NAME**, I know .. yeah I know .. fark what a mistake.

Firstly, my front pads were worn and they slapped on some new ones mistake no 1. Should have asked what they were, I think they are bendix metallic and now seem to chew through my rotors and appear to be scorching them (both sides). Any ideas as to why my rotors show burn marks in the center other than aggressive stopping which I do but I've done this in the past and not noticed any rotor scorching.

I noticed the young kids doing the work, fine - give em benefit of the doubt. I took my car home and to my shock horror I hear this rattling noise as if a piece of metal was tumbling inside my wheel!! I race back and guess what the clip that holds the pad in place fell out. Ok so fine its back but now!!! every now and again I hear a click / movement in my front right sounds almost like either

a) caliper not releasing properly

b) pad shifting into place due to looser or F#$% up clip/clips

c) this is very very hard to reproduce as it seems to happen after some light driving or cornering and then medium application of the breaks

d) Got angry at the a few times - have taken it back twice now and no resolution.. about to be even more angry if I find that the pads are not snug fit into the caliper assembly (is this even possible?)

So the story goes on, at the same time I had my belts replaced, at this I was concerned and questioned them as to whether they could source compatible belts for r34.. Yes yet another mistake I know..

And the final mistake the oil change.

So given the belts and oil change, my car now sounds like a tractor. The oil seems to take a long time to reach decent temps, I could drive 5kms and oil temp will be below 70c mark.

Then my impression is after about 1 km from cold start - I usually stop at the folks and engine sounds a total tractor tapping & thumping old worn engine noise (this engine 82k kms with NO! mods and previously super smooth)

Now after a decent romp 10km and up to normal temps 85 - 90c it seems to sound average and not relay unusual.

Then after a hard run, pull over and listen to the idle - again tractor tapping car seems to struggle to keep a confident idle.

So I am completely dumb for going to ***PM ME FOR NAME*** yes, I get what I pay for 130$ service fark!!

Anyway can any can someone put me at ease that my engine isn't getting permadamage... I suspect they stuffed up my belts/ timing as the engine sound and dynamics feel different from before.

And also where can I go SOR without getting stuffed around and ripped off, at this moment my last resort is genuine Nissan service but i know that will cost big ...

[Daleo]

Ok, brakes first;

If the discs weren't machined at the same time, the rotors will not be perfectly flat and the pads will have to wear in a little to match the surface. Scorching can occur, as the full pad face is not being utilised as yet.

Yes it is possible to have pad backings that aren't quite the right shape, but on the Sumitomo calipers there are little stainless steel shims that clip onto the pads (on the back and also on the front corner), these stop the clicking. they may have thrown them away with the old pads if they're stupid (which is beginning to seem like the case here)

Brakes are a serious issue; not cutting corners allowed. Sort this out NOW.

Oil; The tapping sounds like lifters, possibly they have too thick a grade of oil, also will explain the "struggling" at idle you describe.

This oil needs to go.

Where do you live? If we know this someone will be able to recommend a quality mechanic in your area. They DO exist, it's just a matter of finding them. WA has plenty of big power Nissans you'll be able to find one.

Cheap is one thing; have you looked at the price of an engine rebuild lately? Pay a little more, get a LOT more.

Once you have found a reputable mechanic (shouldn't take long) tell him of your experience, get him to look at everything you've described.

Then, ask him to write a comprehensive report for you to take back to ***PM ME FOR NAME*** and ask that the pay for any work you've had to do to correct their potential incompetence.

If they don't respond favourably, tell them you intend to go to fair trading, and let them take care of it.

IMPORTANT! Be calm & measured in your response if you find they've been negligent, a quiet chat with the manager of the ***PM ME FOR NAME*** you went to (or a phone call to their state manager), will get you a lot further that yelling & carrying on.

Good Luck.

Edited January 21, 2011 by dan_the_man

[robjay]

Ok, brakes first;

Where do you live? If we know this someone will be able to recommend a quality mechanic in your area. They DO exist, it's just a matter of finding them. WA has plenty of big power Nissans you'll be able to find one.

Great thanks, I'm in Coburn will go out of my way for a good opinion.

[havoc34]

Hi Robjay

What belt did you change? timing belt or the normal belts?

For the oil could be wrong engine oil specs it maybe 15w/40 but the API Spec is below what is required, it may also be the wrong Specs totally like maybe using too thick of a oil like 15w/50.

As for the knocking sound of the brakes might be the mounting bolts that they remove to flip the calipers to access the pads are not tighten properly. Had this myself once after brake pad change and forgotten to tighten it tight but just tight.

As for the rest or more possiblities i rather not post here as it could be potential court case for me. I have never trusted all this "***PM ME FOR NAME***", or so call big companies due to a few things of my other cars that i have gotten quote for repairs and such that it will cost me 4 times more than my "back yard" (workshops found in industrial areas but not BIG franchiees types still Mita certified) mechanic charges.

Eg: My wife's 92 lancer had pick up problems took it to my mechanic told him the symptoms test drove with him and told me during the drive the distributor cap is fark and would cost me about $90 original champion (which mitsubishi uses) plug cable and the brush in the cap all changed but he could do it that day due work load. So i drop by my area's ultra tune quoted around $350 to $400, Auto masters $350 to $450 for trouble shooting, parts generic as they say original will cost too much for an old car and labour.

Chances are also that for $130 service package I really doubt the type of oil they use more likely than not its just ordinary minerial oil not suitable for turbo cars.

Personally if i were you driving a import car i rather do this minor servicing and trouble shooting and repair myself, and i'm sure all the bros in here would agree too as the moment they see its and import they bring out their sharpen swords to hack you. "OH IT COST SO MUCH IS BECAUSE ITS AN IMPORT SO THAT PARTS ARE VERY MUCH MORE EXPENSIVE" line

Look up KYP and look for Ben...he did my manaul conversion and i've no complains about his work and also willing to share info or quries that you 'll have

My 2 cents worth

Edited January 21, 2011 by dan_the_man

[Char]

***PM ME FOR NAME***.. i dropped past the mechanic at the bottom of my street other day to grab a bulb and noticed someone had their r34 in their.. shits me, also the amount of skylines and wrx's i've see lately that pull into woolworths etc fuel stations to fill up with cheap 95 RON fuel!

/rant

dude, there's not alot you can do. If u dont know what ur looking at and are worried about it, take it to a decent shop like ovaboost, hyperdrive etc they'll tell u whats wrong.

if they do find something wasnt done right you can prob call ***PM ME FOR NAME*** and go from there

also for future reference, for something like a brake pad change, taking it to someone like joe blows at the bottom of the street or a jap performance shop (ie see above) it would be the difference between $10-$20

[Mr Eps]

Actually the difference is a lot more than 20 bucks...

But actually the other way.. As in ***PM ME FOR NAME*** etc are more pricey...

That's our claim.

[Ten Four]

Actually the difference is a lot more than 20 bucks...

But actually the other way.. As in ***PM ME FOR NAME*** etc are more pricey...

That's our claim.

Yeah, maybe be a bit more, but the risk of a broken engine/brakes etc is much worse....

[Stinky Rooster]

The brakes - what Dale said. (could also be something as silly as a loose wheel bearing too, but get it checked at a reputable place asap.

The ticking noise/rough sounding engine - sounds like they have put 20W50 generic oi from there 500L tank out the back in it - get that shit changed out NOW. They say 75% of your engine wear occurs at start up? Well, your car will be doing approx 99.9% wear at start up if that is the case.

[turboedsloth]

This is why ***PM ME FOR NAME*** is now closed down here in bunbury.

[Dsturbd]

This is why ***PM ME FOR NAME*** is now closed down here in bunbury.

Myle's is very experienced and has been running his own business for 3 yrs now so i doubt it was because he was dodgey , he very sort after mechanic .

Edited January 21, 2011 by dan_the_man

[syfon]

I would be changing to oil ASAP to a fully synthetic 10w-40 or something along those lines.

I would recommend Mr.Auto in Osborne Park.

[turboedsloth]

Myle's is very experienced and has been running his own business for 3 yrs now so i doubt it was because he was dodgey , he very sort after mechanic .

Was he the first or second owner?

[TonyStarks]

Zacka from Cypher Industries in my opinion hands down.

Every bit of work he did to my previous car was done properly and professionally. When I compared with my mates fav mechanics in terms of price, very competitive.

[ashleyr33]

Im my opinion, Get some tools and do it yourself, its easy and you know its been done properly.

[VNS 24]

.....

And also where can I go SOR without getting stuffed around and ripped off, at this moment my last resort is genuine Nissan service but i know that will cost big ...

Fabcar in Cannington is where I always service mine.

Also, one of my friend with a R34 GT-T coupe was having problems with oil issue couple of months before. I took him there, and problem solved.

Good luck.

[r31slpr]

cypher or xspeed, both know their way around imports very well

[Char]

all i can say about cypher is few months back my mate went in with his rb25det- 400rwhp 6boost, gt35r, haltech, 22psi etc etc (tuned by CRED) and then re-tune by cypher turned up 315rwhp on 18psi and the guy reckons you couldnt get anymore.

like an rb25det with gt35r would only make 300rwhp................

now its tuned to 390rwhp 19psi

[autoworx]

wow this thread is going well

have you checked to see how much oil is actually in the car before you swap it out , its probably half full

we only charge 135$ for a oil and filter service and there are a few other workshops who have skyline experience charging around that . it doesn't really cost anymore . ring around the consolidated workshop thread and you'll get a good price

[dan_the_man]

Guys please do not post company names in this thread.