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.... yeah... no.

You guys not read the dyno threads or something? Turbo was pushing 183rkw at 7psi of boost... Turbo is good for what - 10-12psi? Plenty of people in the dyno thread pushing 215-220rwkw on an R34 turbo (10-11psi).

OP was talking R33 - so not entirely the same, but still - you're not making much sense to me.

Its good for 10psi and thats SAFE.

Read the posts in here http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/272413-max-boost-for-standard-r34-gtt-turbo/

Why would you be a fool and risk it?

lol, an even bigger money pit... you gota spend it on something i spose.

GTR cost more to work on for a couple of reasons, one of which is the GTR badge. But mostly there is just

more 'stuff' going on in a GTR. If you insist, please make sure it doesn't have the original turbos.

PFC $1,300

Tune $600

FMIC (black jjr turnflow) $500

Turbotech T $70

Cat $170

Front/Dump Pipe $200

There is 200-220rwkw.

This is something I might consider. However I didn't think the stock turbo could really do 200-220rwkw? If it was wouldn't it be right on the limit? Perhaps I might need to hi-flow the turbo I have now...?

All of what you just said is about $2840 not including labour. I got no idea how much labour costs, I suppose each workshop has their own price. Unigroup is near me and I've heard nothing but good things. I might just go have a chat with Yavuz.

Stock turbo 7psi 183 kw. Really? I wanna see the dyno sheet. Calling bull

Sorry for the unclear picture; It gets up to near 8 (certainly not over it) in the mid-range, but it's 7 and below past peak power (and 6psi by peak):

20100904_dyno-sheet2.jpg

I'll be curious to see what it's dynoing now with a 10psi actuator - it sure feels quicker. If it matters, the above dyno was taken from Willall (a mainline dyno) - reputably a dyno that under-reads compared to dyno dynamics.

Its good for 10psi and thats SAFE.

Read the posts in here http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/272413-max-boost-for-standard-r34-gtt-turbo/

Why would you be a fool and risk it?

And yet in that thread - R31Nismoid says:

Be smart, don鈥檛 run more than 10-12psi

So - as I said in my previous post:

Turbo is good for what - 10-12psi? Plenty of people in the dyno thread pushing 215-220rwkw on an R34 turbo (10-11psi).

... not seeing a conflict here? I sure as hell wasn't talking about running more than that. I'm well aware of the limits of these turbos. To be honest, I'm quite happy with 10psi, and I definitely feel more comfortable doing it with an actuator vs a bleed valve. I'm quite curious to see what it where it's at post nistune tuning, cos it's on factory maps right now (nistune fitted, but untouched).

However I didn't think the stock turbo could really do 200-220rwkw?

Plenty of people are doing it - how long it lasts - I can't comment. A quick search of the RB25 Dyno thread:

1998 R34 GTT

RB25DET NEO

Stock Turbo

Stock Injectors

Stock Fuel Pump

Blitz Return-Flow FMIC

Greddy Profec II Boost controller on 11psi

K&N panel inside stock airbox

Xforce 3" Turbo back exhaust, with high flow cat

0.8 Gapped Plugs

NIStune type 4 daughterboard

214.6rwkw

Another one with a dyno sheet here:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/55845-rb25-turbo-upgrade-all-dyno-results/page__st__640__p__5406969#entry5406969

.. with 210.9rwkw at 10psi. I know I've seen plenty of others...

I will clarify that I was perhaps hasty and/or mis-remembering when I wrote '215-220rwkw' - though, it's not a big difference - but I probably should have said more like '210-215rwkw' as the limits that I've seen on these forums. I'm really not trying to prove people wrong or make a big deal of this - but I've seen it time and time again in the dyno threads, that people are getting those sorts of numbers.

Well a 34t does have have a slightly larger rear housing turbo so should make a lil more power than a stock turbo'd r33.

Maybe the OP should just get a few bolt ons and a stocko r34 turbo...pretty much a direct bolt on then and should see the 200mark easily. That's a nice number for a street car imho.

Anyways yeah mod it, lol.

Edit - oh and yeah, do it right the first time. It will be cheaper over the long run...so if you know you'll want more than 200ish, just get the damn 3071/3076 etc etc already lol.

Edited by Touge Kyousou

10psi, 11psi, 12psi - whatever. It's something around there. The best value will vary from car to car depending upon the properties of your intake system, FMIC, exhaust and air filter. It all matters how many rpm your turbo is doing and how hot the exhaust gas is.

Tuning:

Peak power is only 1/3 of the story. You want nice midrange more than peak power.

You could improve the tune yourself if you have the nistune software. I'm not saying you should, but I would.

Have a look at the last 2 timing columns, compare to the ones just before (the timing dip is extreme = R&R) - change these last 2 columns by extrapolating from the previous columns. (ie. smooth out the dip that occurs in timing after ~9spi. (Note: it is a bigger gap between last and 2nd last columns (80 to 96 load or some such), therefore reduce timing accordingly). The airflow of 96 load roughly translates to ~13 or 14 psi (more than your turbo can reliably flow).

The above is my own observations ! It is meant as a guide only, use your own judgement to see if this is correct on your car (sensors can vary).

I've heard Yavuz is good, but I never had a chance to try him. He didn't reply to my emails, phone messages or answer the phone and I couldn't be arsed driving there just for an initial chat.

+1 For doing it yourself.

..........................

For the money my car would owe me I could have a pretty nice 34 GTR by now but I dont regret it one bit, I love my car and I love feeling the difference all the little mods make along the way.

................................

Definite +1

Funny how something as simple as painting bits of your interior changes the driving experience, even on a small level...

Definite +1

Funny how something as simple as painting bits of your interior changes the driving experience, even on a small level...

Some people honestly do get enjoyment out of building it them selves and for them the costly exercise of doing it all from scratch is probably partially worth it. For me though I just get pissed off an angry when stuff doesn't work, working in the engine bay shits me to tears as well, hot, uncomfortable, things break, things are expensive, rather it worked and I never had to touch it.

Some people honestly do get enjoyment out of building it them selves and for them the costly exercise of doing it all from scratch is probably partially worth it. For me though I just get pissed off an angry when stuff doesn't work, working in the engine bay shits me to tears as well, hot, uncomfortable, things break, things are expensive, rather it worked and I never had to touch it.

Yeah I am this person too. Did three years of a mechanical apprenticeship and work on my car very little.

With this said however, if I had a small workshop with all the tools, hoists, cradles, air lines etc, I would build my car from the ground up. I'd do everything myself.

My frustration usually comes from not having the tools/manpower/space/time to do jobs effeciently.

I've done both.

Having rebuilt my GTS-R from the ground up, gone through two big motor builds as well

To buying a full built GTR...

There are pro's and con's for both things, however the GTS-R spent so much time off the road and i was constantly changing things...

It's about what gives you satisfaction - and satisfaction for me is driving. Hence the GTR for me, has been a much better path.

I knew the effort/trouble the previous owner went to get it to the stage it is, and im glad in many ways i didnt have to do it a 3rd time.

I have to admit that i am fortunate enough that my line is not my daily so if it's off the road and not running for a period of time it's no biggy.

I still get a kick out of doing myself though, no matter how much I yell and swear along the way!

And you walk around at a club meet somewhere and you can tell the two factions apart. One has dirt under the nails, skun knuckles, and a t shirt that has an oil smudge on it somewhere [i wear dark T's, it doesn't show as much], the others are pretty boys!!! :action-smiley-069:

And you walk around at a club meet somewhere and you can tell the two factions apart. One has dirt under the nails, skun knuckles, and a t shirt that has an oil smudge on it somewhere [i wear dark T's, it doesn't show as much], the others are pretty boys!!! :action-smiley-069:

like always, black and white, no inbetween ;)

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