Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Sell the car and buy one with 270kw, it'll cost you a couple of grand max, doing it yourself will cost $5-6k on the cheap and then stuff goes bust and there are hidden costs, probably be more like $10k once youve fixed all the broken stuff and got it 100% how you want.

You could end up with a brand new forged engine, turbo, suspension blah blah for only $2-3k if you just sell it and buy someone else's money pit.

+1

I was going to write practically the same thing.

If you have a good nick, practically stock S2 33, you will be able to sell it for close on the same price as one with a lot of the fruit done already.

We all have the desire to "do it all" ourselves but at the end of the day its not always worth it.

I bought my R32 GTS-T with a lot of fruit but still with room to make it "your own". If you get one that is mostly stock cosmetically you can always throw money at the cosmetics instead. This way you've got the fun of driving a powerful version of the car you like while making it suit your style. Cosmetics are dope if you have the power to go with it.

The fact that you are asking a car forum whether you should modify you car means you want to do it and are looking for reinforcement :)

I think you should save your pennies, get a nice share portfolio, put a deposit on a house... PYSCH! ONLY JOKING!

MOD IT! MOD IT! MOD IT!

I love my R34 with 280rwkw!

How much did you spend on your car bro?

Theres two type of car people, one are the ones that love moding the car themselves gaining experience and learning from the work they do themselves and then the satisfaction of driving it with good results knowing you build it then there are the 2nd type who just care about driving it and want the car to be fast and couldnt care less who did the work as long as it works.

So if your the first type then definately mod it yourself and have fun but if you the 2nd type then as others said go buy one thats ready. I myself would have no enjoyment in just buying 1000hp car and driving I love the fact that I have build my car over 3 years on my own and gone throw the highs and lows but in the end when it all comes together and runs its the best feeling knowing you worked through it and finally got there so yeah you dont really care about the money you spend aslong as you got it your happy to spend on the car.

Gottta say just get the stock turbo maxed out first. 190rwkws is alot funner to drive around then 160. Will spin the wheels easily in first on stock wheels. And second if your not pointing the steering wheel anything but directly straight.

Only need:

FMIC

Full exhaust

Boost controller

Fuel pump (not needed but is highly recomended)

Aftermarket Ecu (probably, some people can get away without it at this power level, some cant.)

Tune + dyno

= 190-200 rwkws

From there its only a couple more mods to your desired power level.

Gottta say just get the stock turbo maxed out first. 190rwkws is alot funner to drive around then 160. Will spin the wheels easily in first on stock wheels. And second if your not pointing the steering wheel anything but directly straight.

Only need:

FMIC

Full exhaust

Boost controller

Fuel pump (not needed but is highly recomended)

Aftermarket Ecu (probably, some people can get away without it at this power level, some cant.)

Tune + dyno

= 190-200 rwkws

From there its only a couple more mods to your desired power level.

I was dyno'd at 183rwkw with just FMIC & full exhaust. Recently changed my R34 turbo actuator over to an R32 10psi actuator, it feels even quicker. I imagine when I get my nistune actually tuned, I should be pushing well over 200rwkw ..

I certainly plan to find the limits of the factory turbo before I upgrade it...

I was dyno'd at 183rwkw with just FMIC & full exhaust. Recently changed my R34 turbo actuator over to an R32 10psi actuator, it feels even quicker. I imagine when I get my nistune actually tuned, I should be pushing well over 200rwkw ..

I certainly plan to find the limits of the factory turbo before I upgrade it...

you will make ~190kw with the stock turbo max.

270/280 kw's is almost double the output from the factory, Does it double the fun. Bet your life it does.

I watched my bud (Lazy bastard) develop his 33 to those levels with all the right supporting mods, suspension etc While I went on trying to build a monster.

I envied the fun he had in that car, It went like shit off a shovel, Could hand out pain to most things it ever came up against and was as reliable as a swiss watch. His world came crashing down when He decided to go all out, the ensuing pain that only those of us who have done it can understand was enough to have him part out the car and move on to an Evo but still wishing he never touched what was a dynamite combo.

I have my 33 which is now beyond being a street car so I am developing a 33 gtr using his gtst as a blueprint. Safe reliable power and a shit load of fun.

Will you lose money, Of course you will! Will it be worth it, If your asking me, Darn straight it will be.

  • Nope 1

I was dyno'd at 183rwkw with just FMIC & full exhaust. Recently changed my R34 turbo actuator over to an R32 10psi actuator, it feels even quicker. I imagine when I get my nistune actually tuned, I should be pushing well over 200rwkw ..

I certainly plan to find the limits of the factory turbo before I upgrade it...

You'll end up frying your turbo.

you will make ~190kw with the stock turbo max.

You'll end up frying your turbo.

.... yeah... no.

You guys not read the dyno threads or something? Turbo was pushing 183rkw at 7psi of boost... Turbo is good for what - 10-12psi? Plenty of people in the dyno thread pushing 215-220rwkw on an R34 turbo (10-11psi).

OP was talking R33 - so not entirely the same, but still - you're not making much sense to me.

LOL yeah was basically asking him to prove to himself that paying for 112 extra kw is not cheap!

Or you could get a Powerchip. 112 extra Kw's for only a mild $112,000

that is the cheapest and best way to mod a performance car :rofl2:

I'll keep mine for a little while longer, save my pennies and probably just end up buying a 33 gtr.

lol, an even bigger money pit... you gota spend it on something i spose.

GTR cost more to work on for a couple of reasons, one of which is the GTR badge. But mostly there is just

more 'stuff' going on in a GTR. If you insist, please make sure it doesn't have the original turbos.

PFC $1,300

Tune $600

FMIC (black jjr turnflow) $500

Turbotech T $70

Cat $170

Front/Dump Pipe $200

There is 200-220rwkw. That is just a figure at the top. The bottom end and mid range will shit all over the stock tune. This will make

the car much much faster. Then go the hog with a 3071/2835 laters.

After driving a couple of fmic, exhaust only cars around with a mate while he was looking for a stockish cheapy a couple of weeks ago. They are..I mean...you can have fun

but its nothing compared to 195rwkw with stock trubo and no were near 215rwkw with highflow. The torque difference is where its at, not the end figure.

270/280 kw's is almost double the output from the factory, Does it double the fun. Bet your life it does.

I watched my bud (Lazy bastard) develop his 33 to those levels with all the right supporting mods, suspension etc While I went on trying to build a monster.

I envied the fun he had in that car, It went like shit off a shovel, Could hand out pain to most things it ever came up against and was as reliable as a swiss watch. His world came crashing down when He decided to go all out, the ensuing pain that only those of us who have done it can understand was enough to have him part out the car and move on to an Evo but still wishing he never touched what was a dynamite combo.

I have my 33 which is now beyond being a street car so I am developing a 33 gtr using his gtst as a blueprint. Safe reliable power and a shit load of fun.

Will you lose money, Of course you will! Will it be worth it, If your asking me, Darn straight it will be.

Totally agree.

Once you get the "itch" and start chasing 300rwkw+, most of the time it gets very expensive and painful.

End results are good, but you always think "what if i just stayed with less than 300"

Iv spent just on $6k in the past 3 months, hypergear atr43g3 .82 turbo,nismo injectors, power fc, z32 afm, etc.

My gtst is currently at the workshop (Unigroup). hopefully picking her up tomorrow! :)

In the end i think it will be worth it...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey everyone, I recently bought myself a 2001 Nissan Stegea M35, and I've had a few issues that I had to fix, my car would start intermittently and I had a bad rocker cover leak, after a couple days of looking I finally found a part number that interchanges with the OEM starter as the OEM starters at $1300 and I can't afford that, this starter was only $270 and I replaced the start and still had the same issues, I posted a video asking for help online and it went very well, some guy said it was probably a bad ignition switch so I took my dash apart and turns out my ignition switch was half screwed in and was loose, once it was tightened it fired right up, I found a local place called "Boost factory" and they sold me a part of OEM Nissan rocker covers, they were $600 which was a shocker but I couldn't find them anywhere else, so I installed them and fixed my oil leak as the old rocker cover was cracked and warped, I now need to replace my boost air inlet hoses as they have some cracks.
    • I am being real ocd and do not want to make amy mistakes so appreciate all help provided. I am overly cautious so asking for opinion even if i know the answer   few questions,   1.re tensioner, should spring be greased lightly?    2.tensioner has two washers , one pressure washer and other has recessed/ seat. I am going to put the recessed one facing tensioner where edges are cut out and pressure washer on top   3. my car has custom triger kit sold few years ago by guy who initially built the engine. I moved the crank gear and it moved in and out easy, only way to remove belt is to slide the crankshaft gear forward which I did. I have seen these being very tough to move , anything to do with my woodruff key?   it has a crank sensor shown in purple which I assume reads from the 12 teeth position mounted to the crankcase gear   4. timing belt doesn’t have arrow stating front or back just a arrow which I think is direction of rotation . Do you agree?   5.i figured out why my crankcase cover was worn as there was no washer installed over the crankcase cover before the harmonic balancer was put in place. It is missing, anyone knows the part number? It looks like this https://justjap.com/products/genuine-nissan-crankshaft-timing-gear-rear-plate-washer-nissan-s13-ca18-a31-r32-rb20-r33-r34-c33-c34-c35-rb25?currency=USD   https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4535.382Zy2 https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4537.382dSz https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4534.382q4U  
    • CTIS (Central Tire Inflation System) has existed since the 80's. I'm looking into buying a Hummer H1 and they generally included it. 
    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
×
×
  • Create New...