Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello everyone,

Dunno if this has been talked about before but i did a search but couldnt find the answer i'm looking for.

So, last year the drag race association here on the island joined IHRA and we got a lot of new rules and this year one of the new rules is that cars that are competing cant run with coolant that has glycol in it.

Is there any alternatives to coolant or any other types of coolant that doesnt have glycol in it? Because i dont really want to rely on just water to keep the engine temperature down.

Thanks in advance for the replies.

Take care

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351160-alternative-to-engine-coolant/
Share on other sites

HI mate, water cools better than glycol anyway, it absorbs more heat for it's volume.

We run straight distilled water in the race car with a corrosion inhibitor. Castrol make the inhibitor I use but I am sure there are other brands available.

If you find you still need more cooling capacity, we also use redline water wetter which made the car run about 5-10o cooler.

  • Like 1

I didnt know that water cools better than glycol, thats good to know. I had a look at the castrol corrosion inhibitor and the redline water wetter, both looks good. Gonna talk to my friends and see if they want to join in on a group buy so we can order some online.

Thanks for the reply Duncan.

BTW I should add that glycol does have a role....it adds the anti-freeze ability. When we are going to goulburn in winter we change back to coolant, the extra cooling isn't really important that time of year anyway

.

I just assumed that wasn't an issue for you in the caribeean but it might be for others reading :D

  • 2 weeks later...

HI mate, water cools better than glycol anyway, it absorbs more heat for it's volume.

We run straight distilled water in the race car with a corrosion inhibitor. Castrol make the inhibitor I use but I am sure there are other brands available.

If you find you still need more cooling capacity, we also use redline water wetter which made the car run about 5-10o cooler.

do u use the water wetter and corrosion inhibitor together?

like im asking if they are compatible together?

full bottle of each in each full colling system fill up?

i know that the redline water wetter has an inhibitor in it but prob not very much and and if your using de mineralised water i suppose it cant hurt to add the 200ml castrol inhibitor also?

I've never used them both together, when running the redline water wetter it has stuff in it already like you said. once again, i've never had a problem.

but be careful of sub 0 evenings...

BTW I should add that glycol does have a role....it adds the anti-freeze ability. When we are going to goulburn in winter we change back to coolant, the extra cooling isn't really important that time of year anyway

.

I just assumed that wasn't an issue for you in the caribeean but it might be for others reading :D

Yea, thats not gonna a be a issue here in the caribbean. A good thing too otherwise a lot of people would protest against this new rule.

yeah the whole point of so called 'coolant' is that it lowers the freezing point so your liquid doesn't freeze up at 0 degrees C. like dunc said it doeasn't really help much with the cooling capacity it does raise the boiling point a bit but under 0.9-1.3 bar pressure (depending on your cap seat pressure) water's boiling point is increased a fair bit anyway. that's what stops is boiling in your engine, the pressure. under 1 bar atmospheric pressure plus the added 1 bar system pressure pure water will boil only at about 120C.

lol well if my car even got close to those temps id be sorting out a better cooling system.

i have found both my r33s have pretty good factory cooling systems (not talking about oil)

no matter how hot the ambiant temp is or how long im being hard on them, the water temp is pretty stable.

genuine thermostat, a regular cooling system flush and retaining clutch fan probably have a bit to do with that though.

more horsepower and thermo fans and water instead of coolant will be the test in the near future when car is back on the track

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update for the sake of closure   Ended up getting the intercooler piping all sorted, new plugs and yellow jacket coils, and she was idling mint until it warmed up while I was bleeding the cooling system. Found the misfire to be localised to cyl 3 by unplugging coilpacks, ran a compression test, that checked out, then decided to get a mate to check if that spark plug was firing out of the motor. Upon cranking it over, with the injectors disconnected, the car actually fired and ran on a couple cylinders and heaps of fuel came out the top of cyl 3 I'd say that injector's either spraying incorrectly or spraying far too much, which is fine as I'm planning on replacing them anyway I'm planning on making about 250kW on flex fuel, and have a set of 1000cc injectors from ozautosport, obviously overkill but I'm planning on building the motor and running more boost further down the line, do you reckon they'd be too big for a smooth idle on 98? Thanks for the replies gents, much appreciated
    • I'm confused. You said you want to "remove the clear coat from most panels" but it sounds like you are actually doing a full respray? Few random things to add -  If you chase the blistered paint with 120 grit, I can almost guarantee you'll chase it down to bare metal (that's fine). But if you paint the car from here, you'll have nice little indents where ever the blistered paint was. The new paint won't magically level out the low areas, you need to fill them. Which leads me to the main point I wanted to add, make sure the whole car is flat before you paint it. All those areas with blistered paint you sanded out, make sure to fill them and triple check they are flat with a block guide coat. I'd also check the whole car is flat with a large block and guide coat but yeah up to you if you want to go that far.   
    • 300hp (225kw) is barely outside the standard turbo's range with a bit of extra boost in it (200ish). If you are going to change the turbo you should aim for 250-300kw (330-400hp) to make the expense worthwhile
    • A couple of things, firstly omg that turbo is expensive! $3,000 USD for dinosaur technology is robbery. You could buy a G series turbo and have a good amount of change instead.  If you want a good budget option, have a look here - https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/ If you are keen to spend more, have look at the modern turbos, Garrett G series, Borgwarner EFR, etc. Have a look at the RB25 dyno results thread for inspiration.  If you upgrade your turbo to something that will support the 300hp you want and only "probably" have Haltech ECU, your car will only "probably" run. Actually, no it won't run. You are going to need the ECU and injectors at the time you do the turbo upgrade.  No thoughts on "this much boost" as you didn't say how much boost that actually is. Having said that, plenty of unopened RB25's making even more power then what you are chasing.   
×
×
  • Create New...