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Hey peeps, just got a few questions about my R32 gtst

I opened up my ecu the other day to see what kind of chip/tune it had n found out is has a UV erasable EPROM. now my problem is my car needs a tune, its running really rich and i need to get rid of the cold start mode somehow, (when it goes into cold start mode with my O2 sensor connected it has no power and runs like crap, pops and splutters, would be like trying to run the car with AFM disconnected is the best way i can describe it)

I recently put a new 2nd hand engine in it thats done 75thou Kms and i would like to get it tuned and dynoed. i live about 2 1/2 hrs down from the gold coast.

My car has

HKS2530

GTR injectors

Z32 AFM

Bosch 040 fuel pump

NGK Platnum Spark Plugs gapped to 0.8mm

Turbotech boost tee

3inch front pipe to 3 inch exhaust with 3 inch cat

hoping to get 220 killawasps

Also does anyone know where i could source a 3 1/2inch stainless resonator from? Ive got a 3 1/2inch exhaust in my garage and all it has is a cannon! its not heaps loud but its really droney and very annoying.

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https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351194-rb20det-eprom-tuning/
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You can of course get the EEPROM re-written each time you want a tune, but a Nistune daughtercard will plug into the socket the EEPROM is in and give you the ability to update much more easily, and you wont need a tuner who has an EEPROM writer etc. You can also use the software to do CONSULT checks from a laptop (if you buy a CONSULT cable). Unless you plan to make no further mods the Nistune will be a better option.

+1 for NIStune, you can get a board for the RB20DET for about $220 then get a competent electronics dude to solder it in.

Also, my 32 in cold start was much the same (even after being tuned for the 30), it wouldn't want to rev over 2000rpm but I was happy with it being a reminder not to thrash the car too soon.. 3L probably helped as I could shift at 1200rpm and still get to the speed limit in 4th.

so the nistune board will solder into the same socket? sounds like a better idea to me as well!

If i did just want to tune the EPROM who does it? (around goldy area)

Cold start is super annoying, any way i can switch it off or is it a map the ecu switches to? I thought i could modify the water temp signal making the ecu think its at running temp all the time to trick it but how would i do that?

Thanks for the info :)

Cold start is there for a very very good reason and there is a good reason why it remains in all modern cars.

+1 nistune and a proper tune. My RB26 went from grumpy and sluggish on cold start to almost identical to warm while still preserving the safety margins you need when your oil is 10x thicker.

so the nistune board will solder into the same socket? sounds like a better idea to me as well!

If i did just want to tune the EPROM who does it? (around goldy area)

Cold start is super annoying, any way i can switch it off or is it a map the ecu switches to? I thought i could modify the water temp signal making the ecu think its at running temp all the time to trick it but how would i do that?

Thanks for the info :)

The NIStune daughterboard solders to the mainboard, the standard chip is still retained but you change some jumpers to tell it to read from the daughterboard. It's basically full programmable software that is integrated with the factory management but it doesn't have the fancy features of a standalone such as antilag, launch control etc.

On R32 nistune boards they supply a socket that you solder onto the PCB, and then you insert the nistune into that socket. Typically EEPROMs are not soldered directly either, but use a similar or identical socket. So, if the EEPROM has the same pin type, then you wont need to do any soldering you just pull out the EEPROM and insert the nistune (carefully, the pins are fragile - you can get special pliers to pull EEPROMs). IIRC the only possible difference is the cross sectional shape of the pins - nistune are round and EEPROMs are square. A socket may or may not be able to take both types depending on its design. The pin spacing and layout will always be correct. I'm 90% sure on that pin stuff.... check the nistune site they have installation instructions. Get someone whos a pro at surface mount soldering to do the soldering if its required.

It would well be worth running CONSULT against your current setup to see if it reports any errors (you may be mistaken about the problem). If you have a problem that is sensor related, get that fixed before you do anything with tuning so you dont muddy the waters.

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