Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So you what do you think of this...

SAU Member: Kris..

rb20DET

HKS 25/35 turbo rebuilt by RotaMaster

JJR 38mm external watsgate

Supertech forged pistons 20thou oversized

ARP rod bolts

ARP head studs

Cometic metal head gasket

Cometic gasket kit

nissan oil pump

nissan water pump

nissan idler pully

nissan tensioner pulley

NDC bearing kit

HKS camshafts, 264/8.5mm

HKS cam gears

Gates timing belt

Tridon thermostat

crank was grub screwed, balanced and ground

balanced pistons

balanced and resized rods

block was decked, bored and honed

resurfaced head

valve grind

new valve stem seals

exhaust guides and ports cleaned up a bit

braided lines

GReddy returnflo front mount intercooler kit

Gkteck dump and front pipe

Blitz cat back

Splitfire coilpacks

JJR alloy radiator

z32 AFM

GTR injectors and resistor pack

Status remaped ECU

Walbro fuel pump

JJR oil cooler relocation kit

gutted cat

238rwkw @ 19psi

Me

Full RB20DET rebuild with upgraded rods and bearings (nothing forged as far as I know)

FMIC

Full turbo back exhaust with performance cat

Greddy Dump Pipe

z32 AFM

Cold air intake

Splitfire coilpacks

550cc injectors

Stock ECu remap

Garrett GT2871R

Bosch 044

Exedy Super HD Clutch

230.3rwkw @ 16psi Dyno Sheet R32 GTS-T.pdf

So the guy above threw 3 x as many mods into his 32 as me and only has 8 more rwkw and is running 3 psi more boost.

Can anyone explain this???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351213-what-the/
Share on other sites

Oh dude for crying out loud. Some reading before posting helps!

Every setup is different

Every dyno is different

Every tune is different

Every persons location is different (and this climate can be a factor in tunes)

You want any more possibilities?

Dyno results are a good guide, but to split hairs over 8rwkw is pointless.

If the dyno he is on, reads 10rwkw low, and yours reads 10rwkw high, then all of a sudden its 28rwkw.

You'll NEVER KNOW.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351213-what-the/#findComment-5635828
Share on other sites

Well that turbo would be prety close to being maxed out so its no matter what you do youll be struggling to go over with a 2535. At the end of the day you can have a full built motor with everthing you could possibly want on it and what would happen if you put a stock turbo? You wont make power.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351213-what-the/#findComment-5635838
Share on other sites

So the guy above threw 3 x as many mods into his 32 as me and only has 8 more rwkw and is running 3 psi more boost.

Can anyone explain this???

Different turbos, different tuner, different dyno.. unsure but his could make alot more power if the boost is wound up more.

also he seems to have done it the right way to make it all last and you seem to have the best turbo for your power range..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351213-what-the/#findComment-5635839
Share on other sites

Oh dude for crying out loud. Some reading before posting helps!

Every setup is different

Every dyno is different

Every tune is different

Every persons location is different (and this climate can be a factor in tunes)

You want any more possibilities?

Dyno results are a good guide, but to split hairs over 8rwkw is pointless.

If the dyno he is on, reads 10rwkw low, and yours reads 10rwkw high, then all of a sudden its 28rwkw.

You'll NEVER KNOW.

So why do we compare tunes then? If everything is subject to error/accuracy issues.

Why do you have a power thread to compare tunes? Why don't we tell everyone to do exactly the same mods and use exactly the same dyno at exactly the same temperature at exactly the same altitude at exactly the same geographic position at exactly the sime time of day.

Way to put a dampener on my day nismoid.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351213-what-the/#findComment-5635845
Share on other sites

So you what do you think of this...

SAU Member: Kris..

rb20DET

HKS 25/35 turbo rebuilt by RotaMaster

JJR 38mm external watsgate

Supertech forged pistons 20thou oversized

HKS camshafts, 264/8.5mm

HKS cam gears

GReddy returnflo front mount intercooler kit

Gkteck dump and front pipe

Blitz cat back

Splitfire coilpacks

JJR alloy radiator

z32 AFM

GTR injectors and resistor pack

Status remaped ECU

Walbro fuel pump

238rwkw @ 19psi

Me

Full RB20DET rebuild with upgraded rods and bearings (nothing forged as far as I know)

FMIC

Full turbo back exhaust with performance cat

Greddy Dump Pipe

z32 AFM

Cold air intake

Splitfire coilpacks

550cc injectors

Stock ECu remap

Garrett GT2871R

Bosch 044

Exedy Super HD Clutch

230.3rwkw @ 16psi Dyno Sheet R32 GTS-T.pdf

So the guy above threw 3 x as many mods into his 32 as me and only has 8 more rwkw and is running 3 psi more boost.

Can anyone explain this???

i just removed the things that wouldnt effect overall power. he has 2 more mods then you. i could simplify the engine work by grouping it under "rebuilt engine" and im pretty sure it will be the same.

you pretty much have the same amount/type of mods but he is pulling more power.

peace out.

Edited by SECURITY
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351213-what-the/#findComment-5636257
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
×
×
  • Create New...