I'm buying a Skyline... What should I look for?

[eric_cheung_]

I think this is a good topic and information for who is looking for a skylines in future.

But I think the problems is......there a hundred problems buyer should check the car before made a decision to buy, if everything is going well on that hundred problems, I think that is not a second hand car.....

Moreover, have a member said (Im not goint to argue, it just my personal opinion) ~~"Is this a 1994 Skyline with 30,000kms? It's 2004 now, do you really think the previous owner drove 3000kms a year?"~~

I totally agree with this point, it is impossible to drove 3000kms per year......

but here...for all skylines owner(R32, R33, or even R34), please check your kms on your dash board, how many skylines is runs under 10,0000kms or just over a little bit? I think a lot of. Just talk about R34 which is 1998 made, if I drive 250~300km per week, I can except the kms on my dash board AT LEAST 10,5000kms.....so how about 93~97 R33 and 89~93 R32?

[davib]

hi

does a series 2 have

ignition coil problems??

i am not sure if the thing is said right

but my friend said it has to be changed regularly?

[alex_k]

hi,

this thread is great. alot of my Q's have been answered! thanks

i have a few other questions, mainly regarding R32 gts-t, as I am looking at purchasing one.

-what are the major differences between N/A, Gts-t and gt-4 other than obvious (eg, strengthened chassis, different interior/instument cluster, stronger/different rb20 internals, etc)

-what options did they come with from factory (eg sunroof, climate control), and what is standard on all of them

-how can i tell if an N/A has had an rb20det transplant, or a manual convo (eg different chassis/VIN numbers)

-any common rust areas/problems/squeaks/leaks to look for when inspecting and test driving

-what updates/additions were done to the car in later years (ie whats the difference between 89/90/91/92/93 r32)

it would be great if you could answer these !

-alex

[Muzz]

Hi i really need help........i just bought a r33 series 2 with 65000 kms.the interiorr looks awesome, except the steering wheel leather has been damaged slightly......the front bar has a little bubble in the front.....does that mena it has been resprayed or what.also...when driving at around 120 km/h the steering wheel shakes a lil bit

[supraaah]

also...when driving at around 120 km/h the steering wheel shakes a lil bit

most probably just needs a wheel balance, shouldn't cost much at all $50 or so

[DaGr81]

Should also check the spare wheel well for water (i.e. close the boot grab a jug of water and pour it near the lights etc and where there are gaps) anything that leaks in is because of worn out sealing should get it fixed asap or rust away without a clue

i bought my r33 from northshore prestige in balgowlah.. did an nrma inspection thing, they identified every problem and the company fixed it and it was checked again ($340 it cost me) and ive run my car for over 2 years and has never ever missed a beat

and when i mean they checked everything it even included noting a crack in the s2 plastic cover for the headlight which they also fixed ^_^

they will tell u if its been in a major or minor accident

check suspension

tyres

wheels

all electronics and engine was gone over throughly

at the time they had an exhaust on my car which wasnt sturdy and this too was noted also noted the exhaust was too loud but i didnt want that fixed

[vidospace]

Take it for a drive:

The BLUE Nissan Build Plate should have the details PRINTED on it... i.e. If you run your fingers over the details printed on it, it should be smooth. IT SHOULD NOT BE ENGRAVED... If it's engraved, it has a fake Nissan Build Plate with a fake Chassis Number. These are forged and put on stolen cars with a new and legitimate chassis number.

This BLUE Nissan Build Plate *should* also have two white plastic rivet-like fasteners holding it on... If they're missing, ask yourself why. The Build plate should NEVER be removed, unless perhaps for a full respray including engine bay...

I checked 3 R32 GTRs yesterday that had yet to be complianced, in a dealer. All of them had engraved plates and identical plastic stopers that held them in place. Can anyone confirm if the "printed" blue plates are only for the R33s? There was definately no respraying done on any of them (paint quite ruff, rust spots etc). I am seeing another one (private seller) today and will check it out too and post my findings. How about other R32 GTR owners? How does your plate look?

[ezekiel10]

i wish i read this first

[Krimz]

Hi guys thanks for all the great info, Im looking at buying a R33 gtst all the ones iv have seen are all less than 100,000kms on the clock. how exactly can i tell if they are right and lined up properly or not?

[180sxnit]

this is a really good thread but its making me think twice about buying a gtr

[Link]

The best piece of advice anyone can give

Take the potential car to a workshop that knows them inside out and have them inspected on a hoist

They will give you a true indication of whether the car is good or bad

[OMeN]

Hey umm well, Im more than likely going down this thursday to check out a S2 GTS-t. The thing is the car isnt complianced therefore its not driveable. The thing is I want to put a deposit down on it to secure it because it has the LSD and a modified dash with nismo dials and GPS in it and the cars only 18 like all of his S2 GTS-t's. The thing is if I put a deposit on it and then decide I dont want it I will more than likely lose my deposit.

So really what Im after is what should I be listening for because ill get him to turn the ignition and rev the shit outa it. Any kind of noises I should keep an ear out for if its just idling getting reved? If anyone can help and knows the RB25DET well and has read this before thursday could they send me a private message because I dont come to these forums very often. Thanks

Edited June 12, 2007 by OMeN

[tyaos]

aaaa

[EngoR33-300]

a good way to check that the car has had n e accidents is to run a magnet along the lines of the panel work.... because they fill the car with fibreglass if its been stacked... hope this helps

[Darkness_Ryda1]

This is fantastic! im going to look at a R33 GTST s1.5 on the weekend and there are alot of things i would not have checked. Thanks heaps

[p_stew]

Hey. Just thought Id throw in something someone showed me today. Take a look at the exaust, if there is a small buckle in the muffler or the pipe doesnt look quite right it's "likely" it had a small to medium bang up in the rear and was repaired. Just not big enought to have to change the exaust.

[some_cs_student]

If you ever feel the need to find the engine number on a RB26?.

It is:

"Below the intake manifold (plenum), near the engine mount." (quoting R31Nismoid)

"Its below the thermostat housing, which is where the bottom radiator hose connects to the block. U will need a torch to see where it is let alone trying to read the numbers." (quoting Barney)

They are both referring to the same location.

[br3ndan]

Yes, you can take the chassis number from the BLUE Nissan Build plate in the engine bay and ring a Nissan Spare Parts dealership. Give them the Chassis number and they should be able to look up the details of the car (Month/Year of Manufacture, Paint Code, Engine Number, etc etc) for you on their parts database. If you happen to call an unhelpful Spare Parts Department, don't give up... Just call another one. It's easy for them to look up, you just have to find a helpful Spare Parts Advisor.

WilliamsRacing, do what I said above to check your chassis number.

Ive done a ring around, unable to track down the engine number, but i got some other information... Who did you call that was able to get you the engine number?

[murf92]

do you have any key information when persifically looking at a non turbo skyline??? wat to look for more so in the engine, that is not gona leave me more problems in the long run if its Fed?

[mado2u]

hi im new to skylines im currently looking at a r33 gt-st skyline from what i have read here its a series 2 5 speed manual has 80000 kays and has had the front bar wich is a 400 type i think? and the front gaurd resprayed?

i also thought it was very underpowered i expected more

it did have a bov and pod but the dealer had to remove it due to it needing a blue slip

i had a look at the wastegat to turbo hose and it looks original so im pretty sure it hasnt been boosted but how can i really tell

it felt really good to drive it still has the original exhaust and 17 inch wheels

i can get it for 14000

what do you guys think?

oh it also has a tape player and a standard cd player wich takes up a lot of room do you have to replace these with a double din head unit?