Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guest TR34GT

SAU Members,

I don't know if this is the right place to say this, but in the last three skylines I've purchased (all from dealers), I had a Stateroads vehicle inspection report carried out, and it was well worth spending the money, given the tests they carry out on compression, paint thickness etc. All three cars were perfect, and without problems for a long time after purchase.

http://www.stateroads.com.au/testimonials.asp

http://www.stateroads.com.au/index.asp

These guys seem to give the high performance imports a better overview than say, some of the better know companies who advertise on TV, and cost a pretty penny.

I have nothing to do with, and am not associated with this organisation in any way.

Check them out here.

Regards

Jim

  • 2 months later...

Can anyone please tell me what to look out for on a 2000/1 R34 Vspec besides the usual paint/panel fluid leaks?

Are all the required compliance plates found in the engine bay?

A lot of these cars have nismo 320km/h dashes fitted making the true odo reading anyone's guess, and none of them come with log books.....

For a vehicle inspection is it best to take it to a reputable workshop such as CRD who speciliase in the GTR's or just get a NRMA inspection?

Edited by DR-JEKL
  • 1 month later...

hey

my question if i can ask it here :S

is that im looking at getting into drifting and im looking at skylines.but for some reason people say you can and cant and all this bullshit in skylines.so just to clarify what model(gtr gtst etc) can i or cant i drift in?

thanks heaps

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

hey guys, im looking for a R32, love R34's, but cant afford one as yet, so im looking to keep the 32 for a few years until i can afford a 34.

should i buy a 32, modify it, without a turbo, obviously as im on my P's, and spend as little as possible on those mods, and still have it running well enough to impress and drift???

budget is about 20k, including price of the car...

or just wait until im off my P's and get a 34???

any cheap mods that can be done with max increase in power etc?

  • 7 months later...

might be worth mentioning something of my experience (old thread I know)

but I just bought an r34 gt-t, at the time i was pondering "why does it have an auto's steering wheel and dash..yet it's manual" some people were saying "maybe theyve mucked around with the dash!"

but it clicked to me, this car has had a auto > manual conversion... now i'm not honestly sure WHEN it was done and what gearbox though it was done in japan, but just look out for that when buying the car, compare pics of manuals and auto's and you'll see interior differences

not that i'm complaining! just my clutch is kinda going, but the gearbox i think is fine hehe

as bad as that is phrased hes not wrong. thats why you buy standard cars, not hot pink ones with white leather interiors and 20 subwoofers.

anyways, im thinking an R32, i like the look alot better than the R 33 and the 34's are still to expensive for my likings.( all gts-t's, cant afford a GTR atm)

i understand the different capacity of the RB20 as oposed to the RB25, but what are the main down sides to the 20? if any, is there a big power difference? and how hard is it to put an RB25 in it later?

And does anyone know ig RACQ here in QLD is any good for the vehicle inspection??

  • 2 months later...
  • 4 weeks later...

holy crap after reading this thread i went and checked that blue plate thing in my engine bay and it has been engraved :banana: the two white plugs are there and it doesnt look like it has been removed,this is quite disturbing. i wish i had of read this thread two weeks ago.

  • 1 month later...

Hey guys,

Very good topic!

get one with all the mods done,(with receipts of major work of course) so u dnt have to spend so damn much on modding it. :P

This is actually an interesting point. I'm thinking of purchasing a fairly heavily modified R33 GT-R (over 300awkW) for that very reason. I'm not a cheapskate, but I don't feel like buying an almost 15 year old car stock for 25-30k and spending another 30k modding it. I am also weary of potential problems associated with buying a modded up car.

The first question I ask myself is why did someone feel the need to invest ~30k on performance mods? Almost certainly to make use of the extra power! If they drag raced it and did dyno shootouts, that's fine. But if it did serious track work, there's a good chance the engine and chassis are on their last legs.

When I find a car I would like to buy, I will no doubt get someone like StateRoads to inspect it. It is my understanding that it costs extra to have a full engine compression test performed (as opposed to a simple engine balance check), and for a modified car, this may be worthwhile. However, I have a concern regarding that. Suppose you have a highly modified engine with good performance parts, but a cracked/damaged engine block. Would a compression test reveal any potential problems? (I have a feeling it won't, but if anyone knows otherwise, please correct me).

Also, do StateRoads have experience with inspecting the state of the installed mods (eg. is the upgraded fuel pump due to fail or is it noisy by nature), or are they unfamiliar with anything non-standard?

I guess what I'm after is a general consensus on buying modified. Is it a thrifty way of getting your hands on a high-performance vehicle, or a sure-fire recipe for a series of high cost repairs and many weeks off the road?

  • 4 weeks later...
holy crap after reading this thread i went and checked that blue plate thing in my engine bay and it has been engraved :whistling: the two white plugs are there and it doesnt look like it has been removed,this is quite disturbing. i wish i had of read this thread two weeks ago.

Hey mate,

i think you'll find its "etched" not "engraved".

As far as i know, its just the tool that was used on the 34's build plate as mine is also like that and im quite sure that the 33's had printed with a different tool.

incase your wondering, the best way i can describe etched in this situation is the feeling that there is some roughness on the plate, but no actual depth to it, which would indicate that it is normal, if you can feel depth to it, that may indicate it is engraved and possibly a stolen car.

Hope i made some sense :thumbsup:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Very nice - I also have a 92 GTST and hardly see any others around these days
    • When I need something else to edit, I use Movavi. A friend who does video editing on a daily basis recommended me) it's an easy video cutter to use for beginners
    • I need to edit some videos for work but I'm not good at all this. Which video editor can you recommend?
    • I think you're really missing the point. The spec is just the minimum spec that the fuel has to meet. The additive packages can, and do, go above that minimum if the fuel brand feels they need/want to. And so you get BP Ultimate or Shell Ultra (or whatever they call it) making promises to clean your engine better than the standard stuff....simply because they do actually put better additive packages in there. They do not waste special sauce on the plebian fuel if they can avoid it. I didn't say "energy density". I just said "density". That's right, the specific gravity (if you want to use a really shit old imperial description for mass per unit volume). The density being higher indicates a number of things, from reduces oxygen content, to increased numbers of double bonds or cyclic components. That then just happens to flow on to the calorific value on a volume basis being correspondingly higher. The calorific value on a mass basis barely changes, because almost all hydrocarbon materials have a very similar CV per kg. But whatever - the end result is that you do get a bit more energy per litre, which helps to offset some of the sting of the massive price bump over 91. I can go you one better than "I used to work at a fuel station". I had uni lecturers who worked at the Pt Stanvac refinery (at the time they were lecturing, as industry specialist lecturers) who were quite candid about the business. And granted, that was 30+ years ago, and you might note that I have stated above that I think the industry has since collected together near the bottom (quite like ISPs, when you think about it). Oh, did I mention that I am quite literally a combustion engineer? I'm designing (well, actually, trying to avoid designing and trying to make the junior engineer do it) a heavy fuel oil firing system for a cement plant in fricking Iraq, this week. Last week it was natural gas fired this-that. The week before it was LPG fired anode furnaces for a copper smelter (well, the burners for them, not the actual furnaces, which are just big dumb steel). I'm kinda all over fuels.
    • Well my freshly rebuilt RB25DET Neo went bang 1000kms in, completely fried big end bearing in cylinder 1 so bad my engine seized. No knocking or oil pressure issue prior to this happening, all happened within less than a second. Had Nitto oil pump, 8L baffled sump, head drain, oil restrictors, the lot put in to prevent me spinning a bearing like i did to need the rebuild. Mechanic that looked after the works has no idea what caused it. Reckoned it may have been bearing clearance wrong in cylinder 1 we have no idea. Machinist who did the work reckoned it was something on the mechanic. Anyway thats between them, i had no part in it, just paid the money Curiosity question, does the oil system on RB’s go sump > oil pump > filter > around engine? If so, if you had a leak on an oil filter relocation plate, say sump > oil pump > filter > LEAK > around engine would this cause a low oil pressure reading if the sensors was before the filter?   TIA
×
×
  • Create New...