Jump to content
SAU Community

I'm buying a Skyline... What should I look for?


Merli

Recommended Posts

Very informative thread, thanks to all the contributors!

I am a qualified motor mechanic who has left the trade (now drive interstate freight trains), but never worked on skylines later than R31 (I currently own this model also).

I am currently looking to buy a R32 GTR, so this information as well as my background knowledge will help greatly, I also still have access to the hoist at my former employer's workshop, so I can (and will) get under any prospective vehicles before purchasing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

hey i dont really know where or who to ask this info from and my post got blocked and was directed to this post so here goes.

im an interested buyer of a r34 gt-t and i was just wondering a few things such as, why is it said that skylines and all performance cars heaps to maintain and run? arent they the same as normal cars just different oils and what not? what is the average deflation on prices per year?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hey i dont really know where or who to ask this info from and my post got blocked and was directed to this post so here goes.

im an interested buyer of a r34 gt-t and i was just wondering a few things such as, why is it said that skylines and all performance cars heaps to maintain and run? arent they the same as normal cars just different oils and what not? what is the average deflation on prices per year?

because they are... trust me..

No they aren't the same as normal cars.. yes they do take different oils etc... lots of other little things can go wrong.. remember that they are old cars now....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

because they are... trust me..

No they aren't the same as normal cars.. yes they do take different oils etc... lots of other little things can go wrong.. remember that they are old cars now....

like what? got a few examples? my 88 camry runs like a beaut :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Hey people's this is a great read, I am contemplating throwing in my EH Holden project and buying an R32 GTR, I will either be buying a completely stock standard GTR and modifying myself, or spending a lot more and buying a modified car that has had known modifications to it by the current owner (none of this "well the owner before the one i bought it off said he put forged etc etc") as i think a car that has "apparentaly" had half of australia's mechanics tinker with it seems like it will cost me more than its worth.

Anyways, with all this in mind can anyone point me to a thread which is dedicated to R32's or 32 Gtr's problems and things to look out for, I have used the search function and keep getting directed back here so maybe there is an old thread I can be pointed to.

Lastly if i bought a stock GTR that had NO major problems just 20year old wear and tear and Intended to replace suspension etc to get it back to driving almost like a new car using decent, but not top of the range componentry would $5000 be a safe budget to get it driving up to scratch.

Thankyou for reading,

nick.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 months later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 3 months later...

The BLUE Nissan Build Plate should have the details PRINTED on it... i.e. If you run your fingers over the details printed on it, it should be smooth. IT SHOULD NOT BE ENGRAVED... If it's engraved, it has a fake Nissan Build Plate with a fake Chassis Number. These are forged and put on stolen cars with a new and legitimate chassis number.

This BLUE Nissan Build Plate *should* also have two white plastic rivet-like fasteners holding it on... If they're missing, ask yourself why. The Build plate should NEVER be removed, unless perhaps for a full respray including engine bay...

I found a R33 GTR, but the plate was engraved. Like brail. It could be felt, Others i have looked at were printed on as stated.

So does having a engraved plate mean its 100% fake? The details on the plate match the car color...The only thing that i found a bit strange, is the color of the engine bay is Black. But the exterior is BN6 (Deep marine blue).

Should I consider this GTR or pass due to the engraved plate?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...

About to buy my first Skyline, don't suppose anyone knows the prices of the tests I should have done on the car?

I think a clearer idea of the specific tests recommended and prices would be handy to add to this thread.

Does stateroads have one price or a small range of prices?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When buying an unregistered car (i'm in VIC) why does it cost so much to get it registered? (Posted here, thought it would be good to add.

I used the calculator and it's telling me:

Postcode at which the vehicle will be garaged: Please enter the Dutiable Value of the vehicle:

(Formerly known as Market Value) Are you eligible for Pensioner Concession?: Yes No Do you have a Health Care Card?: Yes No ecblank.gifecblank.gifecblank.gifAppointment Fee: Inspection Fee: Registration Fee: Transport Accident Charge: Insurance Duty: Number Plates: Motor Vehicle Duty: Total Fee Payable $:

$1,037.85 for rego?

Seriously?

Ah my bad double post

Edited by jukic.j
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

About to buy my first Skyline, don't suppose anyone knows the prices of the tests I should have done on the car?

I think a clearer idea of the specific tests recommended and prices would be handy to add to this thread.

Does stateroads have one price or a small range of prices?

if you can always do a comp test, wont take a huge amount of time but will really tell you what condish the engine is in and if the ODO has actually been played with

no real standard in prices unfortunatley, all skylines vary for instance ive just sold my auto skyline, an automatic one with a stuffed trans and super high K's for 3500, the body was perfect and chassis rails did not have a single scratch on them so it made it worth it just for the shell

you pick the price you want to pay and are happy to pay for the car you are viewing, there is no set price for this skyline in that year with that many K's

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

for someone new to the whole world of cars (as a hobby), is there anywhere you guys can recommend for servicing/tuning in Sydney, NSW preferably around the northern areas (hornsby to parramatta) ? Haven't got a skyline YET but am gathering info.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

for someone new to the whole world of cars (as a hobby), is there anywhere you guys can recommend for servicing/tuning in Sydney, NSW preferably around the northern areas (hornsby to parramatta) ? Haven't got a skyline YET but am gathering info.

There is a heap of places mate, it's good your doing your research... I personally use JEM for my work and tuning, I drive 3hrs just to use them as they have been awesome... With that being said there are heaps of success stories on here from tuners like Jez, Unigroup etc etc.... Servicing can be done by nearly any mechanic but find someone you trust and are comfortable with. Always get comparison quotes and details of what's being offered so you don't get stitched up!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I know, Infiniti stopped importing vehicles before 2020, even though they were still selling their stock for at least a year or 2 after that, they were older build years, therefore, you can import a 2020 400R, because you couldn't buy an AuDM 2020 built Q50 RS. As for insurance, you might need to go through one of the enthusiast insurance companies, they tend to insure a lot more grey import models than the mainstream insurers as Duncan mentioned.
    • loved seeing the zenvo on the a1 just after the hatfield tunnel i was the guy in the white van trying to egg you on it sounded awesome and those exhausts glowing red inside insane cheers for the thumbs up tim and tom.
    • So.... when I'm finally getting around to having my power steering leak sorted, now it looks like I've got the same issue most A/T Skylines are having. My A/T light will randomly come on and I'm stuck in 3rd gear until I turn the car off and on again. Only 3 weeks ago I did a complete transmission service: Oil flush + new gasket + new filter. This came out of nowhere!! It wasn't like the car was driven hard. I drove about 3 mins down the road to get fuel and boom!!!  Anyway, I have a few questions and hope you fine people can help me out here. All questions are in red. 1. The solenoids: I was looking at the parts catalogue in Amayama and I could only find the Solenoids as an assembly. https://www.amayama.com/en/part/nissan/319404ax05 I read in another thread that Solenoid A = 31940-4AX02 & Solenoid B = 31940-4AX05 but the Amayama product has only the code of B. Is this the right part? Can anyone who has done the Solenoid changes or seen them confirm if this is the complete set of A & B?   2. Gasket and Filter: I'm not going to try change the solenoids myself because it seems difficult to do in a home garage with just 2 jack stands. I plan to take it to a shop and get it changed. I was also going to buy the transmission sump gasket at the same time so I don't reuse the same gasket. Should I just use the existing gasket as it has only been on the car since OCT 19th? (~3 weeks) Should I be buying a brand-new gasket and a filter? Does this job involve taking the filter out?   Thanks in advance to everyone. It's hard to find a video of someone doing a solenoid change on a R34 so any help you can give answering my remaining questions would make me less stressed.
    • Yea - From what I have seen from the video, the car idles like any R34 lol 50PSI of fuel pressure is hardly super abnormal, the regulator is working because the pressure remains static when the throttle gets revved, i.e pressure remains the same when manifold vaccuum changes. Bigger pumps on stock rails always bumped the pressure in the rail without using an aftermarket regulator to change that. Do you know what your IAC is actually doing? Has there been any data showing the stepper motor % etc? There's no way your idle is actually moving around the way the cluster(s) are indicating. You would hear the difference with the engine RPM flying to 3k and 1k in mere seconds. I'd be checking the wiring to the tacho. What the tacho is telling you and what the engine/ecu is telling you are different things. I assume your ECU doesn't display the spike. So whatever is telling the tacho to be at X rpm is doing something weird. When the going gets insane, you're on the wrong path. You've ruled out plenty of things that are working correctly/aren't the issue. Your idle isn't doing what the tacho is indicating. You have two seperate issues, I don't think they are linked, and the idle seems reasonably okay unless it's stalling which.. well, it hasn't. Troubleshoot the stall if it occurs by figuring out what your IAC is doing vs what it is being told to do.
    • So awesome! I love the RB with the exhaust on display.
×
×
  • Create New...