Jump to content
SAU Community

I'm buying a Skyline... What should I look for?

Merli

By Merli,
in Tutorials / DIY / FAQ

 Share

Recommended Posts

DAT510 Apprentice

DAT510

Posted
Posted

Very informative thread, thanks to all the contributors!

I am a qualified motor mechanic who has left the trade (now drive interstate freight trains), but never worked on skylines later than R31 (I currently own this model also).

I am currently looking to buy a R32 GTR, so this information as well as my background knowledge will help greatly, I also still have access to the hoist at my former employer's workshop, so I can (and will) get under any prospective vehicles before purchasing.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Replies 109
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Merli
Merli

First points: Check the car when it's clean. Ask the seller to wash the car before you go and see it. Dirt tells a lot of lies. Check the car during the day. NEVER look at a car at night. If possibl

Merli
Merli

Take it for a drive: DON'T SWITCH ON THE RADIO/CD... It will mask any squeeks or rattles the car might have. Start the engine and check the warning lights and gauges. Check for normal operating oil

okooko
okooko

agree with above, youll just end up changing the existing mods anyway at some stage. save the money and start from something in good cond.

  • 1 month later...
Ruxis Veteran

Ruxis

Posted
Posted

hey i dont really know where or who to ask this info from and my post got blocked and was directed to this post so here goes.

im an interested buyer of a r34 gt-t and i was just wondering a few things such as, why is it said that skylines and all performance cars heaps to maintain and run? arent they the same as normal cars just different oils and what not? what is the average deflation on prices per year?

defari Grand Master

defari

Posted
Posted
hey i dont really know where or who to ask this info from and my post got blocked and was directed to this post so here goes.

im an interested buyer of a r34 gt-t and i was just wondering a few things such as, why is it said that skylines and all performance cars heaps to maintain and run? arent they the same as normal cars just different oils and what not? what is the average deflation on prices per year?

because they are... trust me..

No they aren't the same as normal cars.. yes they do take different oils etc... lots of other little things can go wrong.. remember that they are old cars now....

Ruxis Veteran

Ruxis

Posted
Posted
because they are... trust me..

No they aren't the same as normal cars.. yes they do take different oils etc... lots of other little things can go wrong.. remember that they are old cars now....

like what? got a few examples? my 88 camry runs like a beaut :)

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...
Miguelone Grand Master

Miguelone

Posted
Posted (edited)

I totally agree with this point, it is impossible to drove 3000kms per year......

You haven't met my Gran, 5 year old Peugot 206 with 3300k's on the clock.

Edited by miguelegant
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...
webbey Apprentice

webbey

Posted
Posted

Hey people's this is a great read, I am contemplating throwing in my EH Holden project and buying an R32 GTR, I will either be buying a completely stock standard GTR and modifying myself, or spending a lot more and buying a modified car that has had known modifications to it by the current owner (none of this "well the owner before the one i bought it off said he put forged etc etc") as i think a car that has "apparentaly" had half of australia's mechanics tinker with it seems like it will cost me more than its worth.

Anyways, with all this in mind can anyone point me to a thread which is dedicated to R32's or 32 Gtr's problems and things to look out for, I have used the search function and keep getting directed back here so maybe there is an old thread I can be pointed to.

Lastly if i bought a stock GTR that had NO major problems just 20year old wear and tear and Intended to replace suspension etc to get it back to driving almost like a new car using decent, but not top of the range componentry would $5000 be a safe budget to get it driving up to scratch.

Thankyou for reading,

nick.

  • 4 months later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 3 months later...
Booki Rising Star

Booki

Posted
Posted

The BLUE Nissan Build Plate should have the details PRINTED on it... i.e. If you run your fingers over the details printed on it, it should be smooth. IT SHOULD NOT BE ENGRAVED... If it's engraved, it has a fake Nissan Build Plate with a fake Chassis Number. These are forged and put on stolen cars with a new and legitimate chassis number.

This BLUE Nissan Build Plate *should* also have two white plastic rivet-like fasteners holding it on... If they're missing, ask yourself why. The Build plate should NEVER be removed, unless perhaps for a full respray including engine bay...

I found a R33 GTR, but the plate was engraved. Like brail. It could be felt, Others i have looked at were printed on as stated.

So does having a engraved plate mean its 100% fake? The details on the plate match the car color...The only thing that i found a bit strange, is the color of the engine bay is Black. But the exterior is BN6 (Deep marine blue).

Should I consider this GTR or pass due to the engraved plate?

  • 4 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...
jukic.j Rising Star

jukic.j

Posted
Posted

About to buy my first Skyline, don't suppose anyone knows the prices of the tests I should have done on the car?

I think a clearer idea of the specific tests recommended and prices would be handy to add to this thread.

Does stateroads have one price or a small range of prices?

jukic.j Rising Star

jukic.j

Posted
Posted (edited)

When buying an unregistered car (i'm in VIC) why does it cost so much to get it registered? (Posted here, thought it would be good to add.

I used the calculator and it's telling me:

Postcode at which the vehicle will be garaged: Please enter the Dutiable Value of the vehicle:

(Formerly known as Market Value) Are you eligible for Pensioner Concession?: Yes No Do you have a Health Care Card?: Yes No ecblank.gifecblank.gifecblank.gifAppointment Fee: Inspection Fee: Registration Fee: Transport Accident Charge: Insurance Duty: Number Plates: Motor Vehicle Duty: Total Fee Payable $:

$1,037.85 for rego?

Seriously?

Ah my bad double post

Edited by jukic.j
  • 3 weeks later...
mungy Experienced

mungy

Posted
Posted

About to buy my first Skyline, don't suppose anyone knows the prices of the tests I should have done on the car?

I think a clearer idea of the specific tests recommended and prices would be handy to add to this thread.

Does stateroads have one price or a small range of prices?

if you can always do a comp test, wont take a huge amount of time but will really tell you what condish the engine is in and if the ODO has actually been played with

no real standard in prices unfortunatley, all skylines vary for instance ive just sold my auto skyline, an automatic one with a stuffed trans and super high K's for 3500, the body was perfect and chassis rails did not have a single scratch on them so it made it worth it just for the shell

you pick the price you want to pay and are happy to pay for the car you are viewing, there is no set price for this skyline in that year with that many K's

  • 1 month later...
darksky34 Mentor

darksky34

Posted
Posted

for someone new to the whole world of cars (as a hobby), is there anywhere you guys can recommend for servicing/tuning in Sydney, NSW preferably around the northern areas (hornsby to parramatta) ? Haven't got a skyline YET but am gathering info.

34GeeTeeTee Grand Master

34GeeTeeTee

Posted
Posted

for someone new to the whole world of cars (as a hobby), is there anywhere you guys can recommend for servicing/tuning in Sydney, NSW preferably around the northern areas (hornsby to parramatta) ? Haven't got a skyline YET but am gathering info.

There is a heap of places mate, it's good your doing your research... I personally use JEM for my work and tuning, I drive 3hrs just to use them as they have been awesome... With that being said there are heaps of success stories on here from tuners like Jez, Unigroup etc etc.... Servicing can be done by nearly any mechanic but find someone you trust and are comfortable with. Always get comparison quotes and details of what's being offered so you don't get stitched up!

  • 3 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      New fix for low tyre pressure from bmw

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • sunsetR33
      Anyone know this frontpipe?

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • dbm7
      New fix for low tyre pressure from bmw

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • joshuaho96
      Anyone know this frontpipe?

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
    • GTSBoy
      New fix for low tyre pressure from bmw

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      You talking about the ones in the photo above? I guess that could make sense. Fixed (but flexible) line from the point up above down to the hubcap thingo, with a rotating air seal thingo. Then fixed (but also still likely flexible) line from the "other side" of the transfer in the hub cap thingo up to the valve stem on the rim. A horrible cludge, but something that could be done. I'd bet on the Unimog version being fed through from the back, as part of the axle assembly, without the need for the vulnerable lines out to the sides. It's amazing what you can do when you have an idea that is not quite impossible. Nearly impossible, but not quite.
×
×
  • Create New...