Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

why? theres twice as many joints to fail..

Yeah only if the joints used are under rated for the application. Many 500hp applications still use the factory tailshaft.

2 piece shafts are stronger. It's a fact and any driveshaft specialist will say the same.

Going back to a previous post by someone, the falcon tailshaft made from alloy....Aluminium is lighter, therefore it has a much higher critical speed and they use a 3inch tube from memory. The longer the shaft, the stronger the material has to be or you have to lighten the shaft and/or make the tube diameter larger as well. The larger the diameter and the lighter it is, the critical speed goes up further. That is why carbon fibre shafts are probably the best material you can use. Extremely strong, extremely light.

About 6 months ago I got my 2 peice rebuilt from my 300rwkw R34. 1st drive I popped the clutch at about 4k RPM in 1st and blew 3 uni joints to peice's. I then returned said tail shaft and it was then forwared onto spicer, who refused to warrant the parts as they beleived I had either put huge power or locked the shaft some how. My question was, "how would you suggest a way that I could snap all 3 uni's in 1 go with out smashing out the bottom of my car?" they couldn't answer me. Luckily the workshop that built it for me where as confused as I was and met me half way with building a complete new 1 peice shaft.

A 1 peice shaft deffinitly transmit alot more vibration into the car but from what I can tell should almost be indestructable as it's much bulkier then original.

regards

Chris

About 6 months ago I got my 2 peice rebuilt from my 300rwkw R34. 1st drive I popped the clutch at about 4k RPM in 1st and blew 3 uni joints to peice's. I then returned said tail shaft and it was then forwared onto spicer, who refused to warrant the parts as they beleived I had either put huge power or locked the shaft some how. My question was, "how would you suggest a way that I could snap all 3 uni's in 1 go .......................

regards

Chris

Got any photos?

Reason I ask, the shop I use does routine maintenance work for BMW and Merc. Both these cars have non-replaceable uni joints same as the Skylines.

Whenever I get a shaft built it's done with new yokes that have conventional circlipped-in replaceable unis, there's very few Nissan components left when he's finished.

BUT the guys from BM and Merc won't have non-original components on their cars, they have the peened-in design yokes machined for circlips, pass them over to him and he re-builds the shaft.

There's practically no metal left in the yokes.

I'd be interested to see if your re-built shaft was done that way.

Got any photos?

Reason I ask, the shop I use does routine maintenance work for BMW and Merc. Both these cars have non-replaceable uni joints same as the Skylines.

Whenever I get a shaft built it's done with new yokes that have conventional circlipped-in replaceable unis, there's very few Nissan components left when he's finished.

BUT the guys from BM and Merc won't have non-original components on their cars, they have the peened-in design yokes machined for circlips, pass them over to him and he re-builds the shaft.

There's practically no metal left in the yokes.

I'd be interested to see if your re-built shaft was done that way.

hey Jiffo,

unfortunatly I never took any photo's of the shaft when it sheered all the uni's. I know exactly what your saying, yes the shaft was the peened style and machined the yoke to suit the circlip style. when it failed, none of the actual yokes broke, it sheered the actualle centres out of all of them. I would have though that machining the yokes would have caused them to be weaker and snap there first but it didn't.

Chris

lets see. i wonder what most race cars and drag cars use.. as long as the driveline angle is in check (most of the time its not..) i cant see any problems. besides a longer shaft will have more twist and hence be nicer to the unies..

i had massive issues with mine... and i needed a new cv joint.. but apparently... (i got told) that there is i think it was 3 bearings.. like a centre and a front and a back...

it was weird...

But i dont know too much about tailshafts.... plus i think that mechanic was dodgy....

lets see. as long as the driveline angle is in check (most of the time its not..)

Exactly right.

99% of owners don't realise you must run your flanges parallel.

That usually means packing the diff, stiffer engine mounts and some serious dimension checking.

Comparing a 25 box with a sliding yoke to a GT4 box with an output flange is also useless, the shaft must have some in/out flexibility either from the CV or a spline.

Running a sliding yoke style box with a worn out extension bearing is also asking for vibrations.

A stock 2-piece will let you get away with a lot of these faults, they may not even be noticed by the average driver, but a 1-piece will show them up big time.

Wonder how many 1-piece owners have fitted a shaft hoop where the centre bearing used to live?

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 3 months later...

what sort of horespower are the stock 2 piece shafts cappable of?

i know someone earlier said they have been using around the 500 to 600 hp mark but what application are you using your car for? street, drift, drag, track?

if anyone is using a stock shaft with slicks at the drags would be handy to know the following..

*horsepower

*revs on launch

*tyres being used

cheers

  • 1 month later...
  • 3 months later...

just ordered myself a one piece cromolly tailshaft of uniqiue autosports for my r34gtr it has 360klw at the wheels,will let u guys know how it go's fingers crossed i dont get problems, its totally made will all new parts and its costing me $1500 john seems to know his shit we running a cv type flange on the rear and beefed up unis on the front with mark williams yokes

  • 7 months later...

I have a new shaft being built atm, im running 3 inch heavier tube, with uni's that are a 30mm cap x 90mm uni with external clips and all replaceable uni's. Will be a 2 piece shaft. The builder said they make them for 1000hp drag cars with no failures. Should well exceed my needs.

where are you looking at getting these built from? is their specific shops that specialize in performance tailshafts?

Hardy spicer

Fark! i've got a 1 piece built by ADL, it's been fine so far, fark! i'm going to have to change it

Why?

Hardy spicer

Why?

Ring any tailshaft maker in your area and they should tell you that a tube shaft of the length required in a skyline (I think it's around 50inches) will go critical at 6000-6500rpm. The harmonic inbalance is usually so harsh that they bend or buckle as a result.

Of course it depends on the material they are made from, how thick and the diameter of the tube but 2 piece shafts are stronger, much stronger. We put 600+hp through them all the time without hassles

this info seems to be on the money, my shaft is just over 50 inches :whistling: , compared with 4wd which is around 10 inches shorter

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It's actually really good advice. And I do try to do it. I actually have 2x 3KG dumbbells that sit right beside where I sit. And I look at them a lot. Use them a little. But I'm trying to do more with it. At the moment I'm going through a heap of weight loss too which will help. I cracked into the 85kg mark this week. My weight used to have me sit consistently between 93 to 95KG! That definitely doesn't help. I've also got POTS, which flared up after I got slapped with COVID a few weeks back, and POTS really smashes fatigue and stuff into you, and has a thing even called "excercise fatigue". Basically even the minorest "excercise" (walking from the garage to the house) causes fatigue! And one of the treatments (Other than a med I'm on) is also... Excercise... Ha ha ha So it's why I'm trying to play the game of "might as well" and trying to push through things. For ADHD specifically, the general recommendation is "excercise". When you dig deep into it though, while any excercise is good, the best type is "explosive" excercise. So training for a sport like squash, tennis, even soccer. Things where you need to get the whole body able to "explode" into a different direction change. They've found with explosive sports, (I can't think of the proper term they have for it) that it actually makes the brain grow and become bigger in specific areas. The areas where ADHD causes those parts of the brain to be smaller than normal! But definitely, trying to push myself, and break those bounds mate, and get healthier!
    • Be more active mate.. , not taking the piss ❤️, your long term health will love you for it I would think something like a kettle bell or 2 laying around in areas you go past during the day would be awesome for ADHD.... "Oh look, a kettlebell", and exercise helps your brain health as well My mates son was a bit of a problem child, diagnosed wirh ADHD, and some other things that had his brain occasionally doing loops, until we got him into a training program, the difference after he started training was amazing, he had more focus, and his fitness levels exploded, it is like he is a totally different kid to be around Brain chemistry something something Stay fit stay strong mate
    • I had never actually looked into it, but aren't onboard compressors a thing in trucks?
    • Read the ECU for fault codes or have someone else do it. A faulty coolant temperature sender is usually listed in ECUs. If the sensor itself is not busted it can also be a bad ground connection. Or in a really unlucky case, damaged wiring.
    • Can't be a Futjitsubo as those are made with a flex piece and Reimax is smaller in pipe diameter. If anything it is closest to a Mines pipe, but evidently it is not an actual Mines pipe.   Classic word humor
×
×
  • Create New...