Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi i really need some help this is doing my head in , i have a r32 with a rb20det had just devoloped a very annoying issue all the car has is a frount mount , 3" exhaust ,dumppipe, 3 month old walbro fuel pump ,full service but gear box oil , now the problem lol ,i warm the car up every morning sounds like a slight miss at idle never affected it befor now the problem is i take off and the car is surging like its dying seems like no fuel then driving around it surges sometimes when you put your foot flat it dies , i come to a set of lights it dies then i start it and it will stall again does this about 2-3 times then will start have to rev it up a bit to get it going going at a constant speed of say 80kmhs and you can feel a slight surging went up a lillte hil and stalled , has fuel have checked the fuel filter clean still had fuel pump out filter element clean checked fuel pressure at idle 41psi the walbro pump when was new had a loud winding now its quiet , have cleaned the AFM out cleaned the acc i think its called any idears would be nice thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351474-need-help-with-r32-rb20det/
Share on other sites

Ya, as stated, CAS or AFM, 100%. My friend had this with his GTR, ended up being one MAF was shot.. Even after resoldering etc, the thermister had had it.

CAS along with TPS can be typically faulty around the 60-80,000 km mark

I'm so glad you posted this topic cause my car has started with a similar issue I have suspected my cas to befaulty since I've had the car I've always had a pop on idle Which has goten worse over the past 3months to the point where it today started to hardly idle it idles round .500rpm and pop and misses and border line stalls and the miss seems to come go also which I could not understand and if I drive hard while it's running funny it pings it head off literally i have i have been dumfounded for the last couple of months with this issues i have changed injectors three times have cleaned the aac and afm which didn't really help at all changed the fuel pump removed aftermarket fuel regs changed fuel lines with no change i finally borrowed a cas off my mate and it didnt pop at all but when I drove hard a had flat spots all thru the revs which I think maybe cause the ecu mayneed to be remapped cause it's ran poorly for so long can any one confirm this?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I figured out what’s wrong. It’s something to do with the high beam wire short circuiting. When I measure the continuity with a multimeter on the headlight socket connector it gives me a continuous beeping noise when I put it on the ground socket and also on the high beam socket.  On the passenger side of the car (working side), it’s only beeping when the probe is on the ground socket. Which makes sense.  So that means it has something to do with the high beam power supply for the drivers side. How do I trace that? Is it the turn signal lever malfunctioning? The one that also controls the high beam and low beams. 
    • Hey lads just finished tidying up a gtr a bought. Originally from Sydney now living in New Zealand 
    • Hi Guys, Looking for this piece if anyone can help out.   https://tfaspeed.com/products/nissan-skyline-r33-gtr-rear-trunk-finsher-panel
    • How did you go with your problem? End up fixing it. Have a y34 aswell vq30det
    • But if I smoke test 5th cylinder it’s all ok, no leaks  when I try with 2nd it’s leaking exhaust and intake, it doesn’t come from oil dip stick.    so maybe when car was running poorly, rich or sth. Spark plugs were black and covered in charcoal or sth lookalike. could potential contamination make valves not seal properly? is there also a possibility that rb’s don’t have equal performing cooling passages  meaning back of the engine will be hotter than front. Can this cause improper wear if engine was running under load for short time? Or carbon build up could just burnt from 4-6 and is still on 1-3?   I out of my head like really. Timing is as manual crank-exhaust 47, exhaust-intake 38 at this point I thinking about give it a try and make another 500-1000km and check if anything change, if not I will most likely disassemble engine head /or whole engine and send it back to rebuild. It’s killing me     
×
×
  • Create New...