Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hello all im brand new to this site and have just got my self a r32 gts4 4 door with a rb25 i have a few questions that i hope yous can help me with

first off what would be the best computer to run in this as i want to keep the awd settings i have herd some computers are a hassle when using awd in the gts4's

second what coilovers do i get for it gtr ones???? or just r32 gtst coupe ones????

any information or links would be greatly apreciated thanks for your help.ben

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351658-r32-gts4-help/
Share on other sites

another thing is its a auto but the gearbox is a rb20 gts4 one its slipping reall bad me and mate checked fluid levels and didnt have much in there so we topped it up

and it seemed to shift better but when it would try to shift into third it would slip reall bad as soon as i got to put my foot down

but if i use it manually and put the shifter into first and put my foot down it doesnt slip nor second????

could the fluid leves still be out would this make a diffrence???or could my fillter be cloged or do i need a new auto???

and would a stagea rb25 gearbox bolt straight in????

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351658-r32-gts4-help/#findComment-5641129
Share on other sites

hello all im brand new to this site and have just got my self a r32 gts4 4 door with a rb25 i have a few questions that i hope yous can help me with

first off what would be the best computer to run in this as i want to keep the awd settings i have herd some computers are a hassle when using awd in the gts4's

second what coilovers do i get for it gtr ones???? or just r32 gtst coupe ones????

any information or links would be greatly apreciated thanks for your help.ben

I have an r32 gts4 4 door with an rb25 in it, if I was looking for an aftermarket ecu id go the vipec,i'm running that in mine. After the issues were sorted it was good, and awd seems to work okay. I'm running Tein HA/HR's in mine, but it came like that. I'd guess they'd be the GTR ones.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351658-r32-gts4-help/#findComment-5642732
Share on other sites

why an aftermarket computer?

unless you are going to mod the thing I personally would not bother. you have more pressing issues with that box. if its slipping then NO amount of fluid will fix it.

you have 3 real options:

fix it - $4k for a jatco 4 spd box.

sell the car

put a GTR manual box in it with rear diff.

if you have a RB25 in it already then you have a stagea engine in there. box will bolt to it though I'm uncertain of the electrics if you are going to leave it as an auto.

manual will give you less hassles and the autotrans is not reliant on teh engine ECU for control. the staega ECU will run the trans if its a later one.

as for suspension - GTR items.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351658-r32-gts4-help/#findComment-5642763
Share on other sites

im in qld and i have started modding it , it has a full 3inch exhaust,fmic,and pod filter and turbosmrt boost controller soon will have bigger injectors and high flowed turbo

as for the auto ecu i have a rb25 auto computer running the motor previous owner had a rb20 ecu running the car

should i just get a apexi power fc for a gtr???? when i get the new auto??? will this work

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351658-r32-gts4-help/#findComment-5642849
Share on other sites

Only in my opinion, I think the Vipec or Haltec e11v2 or Haltec platinum, plug and play for a GTR would be better. If you're getting a tune, what your tuner likes of those two. I'm glad to see another GTS4 being built. They're nice cars.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351658-r32-gts4-help/#findComment-5642894
Share on other sites

Ya i'm getting confused trying to follow this :). Find the part number on the ECU.. match it up to this thread -> http://deniliquinsportingcarclub.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=58:rb-ecu-part-numbers&catid=35:nissan-skyline-information&Itemid=9

Secondly I believe to run different autos you need the associated Auto computer. It isn't straight forward and most people don't even bother trying to swap autos to later models, but I have seen cars that say it has been done (as in tiptronic into R32). Therefore it is better to rebuild what you have (which will probably cost upwards of 3G).

Furthermore because of the auto, usually you are locked into the Nissan computers. However some ECUs can easily be remapped using Nistune, once you find out exactly which ECUs you have that run the car, try and use one that can be Nistuned, that will save a lot of headaches.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351658-r32-gts4-help/#findComment-5643237
Share on other sites

Furthermore because of the auto, usually you are locked into the Nissan computers. However some ECUs can easily be remapped using Nistune, once you find out exactly which ECUs you have that run the car, try and use one that can be Nistuned, that will save a lot of headaches.

+1 to Nistune!

my cousin used a Z32 ecu + nistune in his r33 GTS4 with 25DET transplant (from a Stagea).

His car is manual however...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351658-r32-gts4-help/#findComment-5644131
Share on other sites

im just going to get the auto that aint tip-tronic from the stagea and get the auto computer at the same time and maybe the ecu aswell then give it my local workshop GODZILA MOTOR SPORTS they should be able to sort out all the problems for me and give it a good tune, they know there skylines preety good!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351658-r32-gts4-help/#findComment-5644342
Share on other sites

whilst I'm not going to tell you how to spend your hard earned :)

I would sort your existing probelms first BEFORE fiddling with the engine. bob grant automatics will do the jatco and make it bullet proof. I have already have one box doen by him and its the bset shifting box I have ever used. (subaru 4spd auto.)

buying a second hand box is going to be buying another hand grenade. it will work for a while then spit 2nd or 3rd again.

do it once and you will not have to do it again.

from there then start playing with the engine. no point upping the power if the device behind it will not take it.

as a parallel story:

I bought a 88 subaru wagon - dead engine in 2006 - dropped a twin turbo awd ut into it - 4 spd auto. box lasted 3k before it spat second.

when it did the whole thing went. turned out second gear band was worn to metal and that filled the box with shavings and destroyed every clutch in it

every box I looked at second hand was trashed or near enough to it. it sat for two years whilst I was looking in the end I put $4500 into a totally rebuilt box and that had everything uprated and a BIG trans cooler added. that was feb 2010 and it runs fine now and has not given me ANY trouble.

looking at your current idea you apper to be ready to simply throw money at it without a real plan. I would plan what you want and from there work to achieve that.

as a marker have a look at the GTS4 thread in my sig. that is a plan in action :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351658-r32-gts4-help/#findComment-5644424
Share on other sites

i know what u are saying but for now im just looking to get it on the road as a everyday car so wont be going down that path for awhile.

but i have been doing a bit of reaserch and have found out that seris 1 stageas dont use tip-tronic so im going with that less hassle and i will be getting the stagea ece and auto computer

in the future the gearbox will be getting work done to it just not keen on doing any work to the rb20 auto would rather spend the cash on a rb25 one

just want it do drive good for now then get it registed and on the road.Then ill start the big mods lol!!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351658-r32-gts4-help/#findComment-5645393
Share on other sites

I think Chris loves gts4s and is trying to point you in the right direction. He has both trade experience, and a love of his own restorations, but especially his gts4, check out his thread. I think the easiest tranny, is rebuilding the one in the car. A properly built JATCO is well proven in the VL drag scene. Cheers.

Edited by WHITE gtt
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351658-r32-gts4-help/#findComment-5645717
Share on other sites

im just going to get the auto that aint tip-tronic from the stagea and get the auto computer at the same time and maybe the ecu aswell then give it my local workshop GODZILA MOTOR SPORTS they should be able to sort out all the problems for me and give it a good tune, they know there skylines preety good!

True but they probably "farm out" any auto transmission work.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351658-r32-gts4-help/#findComment-5645732
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Save yourself the headache of an alarm. Immobilizer on the signal side of the main EFI relays so it won't start is good enough. DIY killswitch is the same thing except instead of a nice passive system you need to remember to switch it on and off.
    • Yeah, the advent of canbus was supposed to cut down on wiring weight, then some bright marketing wonk says "oh, look at all these wonderful tech gadgets we can cram in here now that we have this wonderous technology" and some arsehole safety legislator says "oh, look at all the wonderful surveillance and tracking gadgets we can cram in here now that we have this wonderous technology" and some dipshit young engineer who has grown up thinking that an extra 500000 lines of code is not a problem because storage is cheap these days says "oh look at all this wonderful shit I can do to one up those dipshit arsholes over at VW" and the Karens of the world all go "oh look at all these fancy things I can do on my screen (so long as I am not driving on a bumpy road wherein touch screens immediately become the single most stupid shit idea ever shoveled into a car) and my 19 zone airconditioning keeps my sweaty fat folds a bit less damp and the windows close themselves because I'm too fat and lazy to wind them up for myself and these reversing sensors would have been great if I'd paid attention to them instead of smashing them on the bollard while I was reversing and staring fixedly forward that day I went to pick up little Charlize from ballet" and the sweaty mongoloids who say "oh this wonderful collision avoidance technology with these 45 excellent radar antennae scattered across the front of my car mean I can tailgate like a methed up tradie at full speed with no fear because the car and the 35 airbags will protect me if it all goes wrong" ...... </shallistopranting?>
    • There's a post from a member (can't recall who), went down the path of a twin scroll G30-660 and it's doing over 300kW+ AND comes on about the same as a high flow RB25DET turbo. Have your cake and eat it too in this case. TBH, if I had a 2nd chance of building my car again (i.e. someone gave me what I wanted for my shit box, but the deal was I had to re-build another R33 and keep the change) I would just pop in a stock NEO motor (with new seals, rod bearings, ARP studs, head gasket, sump, Nitto pump), get a smaller twin scroll turbo, modify the stock low mount (keep the divider in place), and make a solid 300kW on 98RON and call it a day. 
    • It's all the sound deadening, and extra shit piled into them, plus all the extra (even though it's thinner) material for crumple zones. I can't fathom in modern cars why they need canbus to the headlights, and why the headlights must be vin coded on some cars to the ECU, BCM, and security module! Especially when they claim it's for security, yet, the canbus at the headlights let's thieves steal the car in minutes, so even more cars are being stolen! The Mercedes Sprinter 907 vans. They're a huge van, but a "basic" van. Yet they have that many canbus networks, plus two Lin networks, AND an Ethernet network. Logging a single network alone of 8 byte data frames, and they will generate a 20mb log file in 5 minutes. That's one network, and I can't remember the exact amount, but there's over 10 full CAN2.0B networks in them. I'm not a fan of modern cars, oddly, more and more I hate DBW, and all the bullshittery the cars try and interfere with. But all that bullshittery adds weight, plus crazy regulations on crumple zones, plus, ever picked a modern seat up, half of them have like 4 electric motors in them and will weigh 30+kg each. Then all the motors for things like adjustable steering columns blah blah blah. And did I mention the sound deadening so you can even hear an ambulance right behind you even if you 7.2surround sound is off?
    • Ah ok, yeah it should be flat, I believe the r34 battery tray has these 3 bumps in them they makes it line up and everything is flat, don't see how it would tilt if everything is secured.
×
×
  • Create New...