Jump to content
SAU Community

What's Going On With Stathfield Morayfield?


Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

Any one know what's up with the Morayfield branch of Strathfield.

They have been closed for 2 weeks now, and they installed my alarm/immobilizer nearly 2 years ago and now it is being very temperamental.

I figure since they installed it, they can look at it only problem is I can't even contact them.

I have left emails, called repeatedly, called other branches (slacks creek was useless) and I can't get thru to anyone.

now my car won't start sometimes due to the immobilizer being active and the central locking has stopped working, I'm at a loss as what to do with my situation.

I have even threatened Strathfield that if I didn't get a reply within a week I would be seeking further action, and that was last monday 17/1/11 well over 7 days now.

The goose I spoke to at slacks creek basically told me he didn't care that they were not open because it was shut due to 'health and safety' reasons.

Being heavily into workplace health and safety (whso/rep) I know this is not the case they should have been opened up by at least last Wednesday, (unless they have some retarded policy stating other wise)

I doubt I have any sort of case against them so seeking further action would be a stupid waste of time, money and effort.

would it be worth calling up Cyclops alarms to see where the next closest distributor is and working it out from there or should I wait for Strathfield and sling them abuse when they finally open their doors?

Any advice would be handy :)

thanks

When I spoke to the Slacks Creek store I asked for the regional managers/Rep number and the person I spoke to refused to give it to me.

EDIT : I just googled "strathfield headoffice number" badabing badaboom. I'll try it in the morning.

I don't know why I didn't think of it earlier, thanks.

any other advice is welcome.

Edited by omy-33

Seeing it was over 2 years ago, you may no longer be covered under warranty. It may not be that the product is faulty but there's something has come loose and it would require someone to get in there and have a look. Not exactly the same field but in the computer store I worked in for a while there was a 7 day warranty on labour. Might want to check out the invoice and read through the fine print, might speed things up for you a little and you can take it to someone else who will answer your phone calls!

Hrm yeah sounds a bit suss. I'm just guessing here but maybe if they're separately owned stores that one went broke? Dunno. The difficulty you're having getting a straight answer doesn't fill me with confidence in any case.

If you don't have any joy with getting hold of them, or need it fixed ASAP, +1 for Audio Express. If anyone can sort your alarm out it's Chris :)

dunno,

gievn that thye screwed the franchisees out aof a LOT of money when coporate took them all back over, I dare say that the corporate office has shut that one down as well. I know the rocklea one (mal meninga) went down in a ball of flames that way.

when it went franchise they still expected the franchisees to put their daily takings into the SCR account and not their own accounts. (as you are supposed to do.) the staff at the time lost everything - holidays,sickleave - the lot.

if its flood related then you may be in for a headache as they *may* turn it into a phone stall in the main shopping centre. cheaper for them and less headache to refit the store.

as for your issue. I sell the cyclops units. is your remote the arrow head or a different one?

have you changed the batteries?

if arrow head - pull the unit apart and give it a GOOD clean. those had a nasty habit of dying due to dirt. (the buttons are mica based and do not conduct after a while.)

if all else fails - toss it on a truck and send it down to me. I'll fix it.

Ok thanks for all the advice, it has been a help. I agree with you that abuse is not going to help anything. My diff should be in within the next fortnite so you will probably get a call from me soon Chris.

In the meantime I will take apart the remote x2 (neither work) and clean it all out. The blue light comes on the remote but it's like the receiver has crapped itself, I used to be able to sit next to the car and just repeatedly hit the remote buttons for about 5 mins

before it would unlock, now I just keep it key locked and moved it inside the garage. lol.

So i'm not going to bother with strathfield anymore when the diff is in and the car starts i will just take it to Audio-express.

Thanks all

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...