Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

I have up for sale a Apexi PFC to suit Series 1 or 2 R33 GTST this comes with original box, hand controller and manuals (even though their in Japanese) It is in EXCELLENT condition as it has only ever been used in a car that barley ever gets driven (its actually spent the last year in my garage without an engine).

The Power FC proudly stands as A'PEXi's answer to the constraints and limitations associated with most piggy-back style fuel controllers. The Power FC is a complete, stand alone, total engine management system capable of handling virtually anything thrown in its path. From multiple point fuel and ignition control and boost settings, the Power FC is capable of accommodating even the most demanding performance enthusiasts.

It also comes with the Electronic Boost Control Kit in original box also ($427.88) http://www.nengun.com/apexi/power-fc-boost-controller-kit

The Apexi Boost Control Kit is an optional kit designed to control boost through the Apexi Power FC. Simple connection to the Apexi Power FC allows the user to access a full self-learning boost controller. The Apexi Power FC allows up to 4 different boost presets for any stage of driving. The high grade solenoid valve is the same one used in our Apexi Super AVC-R boost controller. As with the Apexi AVC-R, the Boost control kit allows increased boost response and boost stability at high RPM's

I have found brand new PFC's on an Australian site for ($1999.00) http://www.shiftperformance.com.au/product_info.php?cPath=91&products_id=696&osCsid=72a1bbf118f2776a4b13e05c7219dec0

Obviously these PFC's are extremely rare to find so for both items i am asking $1700, i am happy to list on eBay as a buy it now item however i will factor in the PayPal and eBay fee's into the listing price (postage via express post is included).

I will hopefully get the time to take and upload some pictures tonight.

Interested in seperating the boost control kit?

Not unless someone purchases the PFC without it first..

Oh by the way, ill have a GT3582R 0.63 Rear housing (4 bolt pattern) off my turbo in the next couple of weeks.

Edited by SLYDA

Interested in both mate, send me a pm I couldn't pm

You as I think you inbox is full!

Cheers

'

yours is also saying "The member scotty_1989 cannot receive any new messages" anyway mate have cleared the inbox so feel free to PM me now.

I purchased this PFC and Boost Control Kit brand new also, so it has only ever been in one car.

Edited by SLYDA

Have listed item on eBay

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280623344123

Price is $1680 as ebay charges me a fee on the final purchase price ($38.38) + the Paypal fee's of 2.4% + $0.30 AUD ($41.10) and the cost of listing the item approx $5.

I am happy to sell outside of eBay (either pickup, or direct deposit) just message me and we can come to an arrangement.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
    • It's most likely the bolt/bush where the cover bolts back wore and allowed cover to move forward.
    • Still haven't put the injectors and R35 AFM in so we can tune the bloody thing for the HG highflow it got mid last year! I think I can forecast the upgrade path to a bigger twin scroll, external gate, Haltech, flex setup, Samsonas, dis dat, etc will be .... a while away!
    • Should have taken that opportunity to slot in a twin scroll turbo setup. Maybe next time.
×
×
  • Create New...