Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I suspect I might need a bigger cooler for my m35.

Gearbox is fine over short drives, but after an hour at highway speed it starts to hold onto 3 rd and 4th right up to 4000rpm under low throttle.

Backing right off will get it to shift into 5th.

Does that sound like a heat issue?

If so, what aftermarket coolers are people using?

Do you bypass the cooler in the radiator, or run them in series?

Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/352061-do-i-need-a-transmission-cooler/
Share on other sites

first things first..

change the oils in it to either Nulon AT fluid which is preffered, or nissans Matic J. both the transmission and transfer case will need to be changed(if not already done so).

then get a trans oil cooler, and link it in to the one thats already running through your radiator. you will notice a masive improvement.

hope it helps

sounds fairly normal. the throttle is very sensitive.

however, its worth it getting additional cooling. run them in series, put the new one AFTER the factory radiator loop.

how do you know which ones after? and why would it be important?

it means before, the fluid is pumped into the radiator trans loop.

its 1/4 auto trans hoses youll need. not cheap, but worth the mods.

i plumbed mine behind the LH headlight, there is a blank area in the reo bar that i cut a hole out to get the hoses through.

i have a 30cm x 12cm cooler with 1/4 fittings. seems to work fine!

im not running the intank trans cooler at the moment. waiting till my new radiator goes in.

if you do install one, check fliud levels afterwards as the new cooler will take some of the fluid volume

wouldn't you put the new cooler before the radiator loop?

the rad loop is to regulate the temp of the fluid so you'd want the aftermarket cooler to drop the temps and the rad to bring it up to the correct temp

then all youre doing it running it at the temp its at now, thus making the new cooler null.

if its after the stock cooler, the trans fluid still gets up temp quickly due to the radiator loop - and also cooled if required - but also cooled lower than the stock 'setting'. which is the whole idea.

but its designed to use the oil at ~90°c

new cooler first drops the temps from "too hot" to "warm" then your actually taking heat from the coolant and putting that back into the trans oil

it takes the load off the radiator core and regulates the trans oil better

have a look at any stock 2 cooler setups like on most commodores, pretty sure its

edit: after a mid post research

http://autospeed.com/cms/title_Cooling-the-Trans/A_109772/article.html

this guy says in hot temps you can just bail on the stock one but if you see cold temps you'll want the aftermarket unit BEFORE the stock radiator one

bigger cooler is better. have a 600x 600 one on my subaru and that keeps temps quite good and quite driveable. in my case I do not use the stock one in the radiator.

that said my 4spd box isnt entirely stock either. (after a $4500 rebuild.)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • First up, I wouldn't use PID straight up for boost control. There's also other control techniques that can be implemented. And as I said, and you keep missing the point. It's not the ONE thing, it's the wrapping it up together with everything else in the one system that starts to unravel the problem. It's why there are people who can work in a certain field as a generalist, IE a IT person, and then there are specialists. IE, an SQL database specialist. Sure the IT person can build and run a database, and it'll work, however theyll likely never be as good as a specialist.   So, as said, it's not as simple as you're thinking. And yes, there's a limit to the number of everything's in MCUs, and they run out far to freaking fast when you're designing a complex system, which means you have to make compromises. Add to that, you'll have a limited team working on it, so fixing / tweaking some features means some features are a higher priority than others. Add to that, someone might fix a problem around a certain unrelated feature, and that change due to other complexities in the system design, can now cause a new, unforseen bug in something else.   The whole thing is, as said, sometimes split systems can work as good, and if not better. Plus when there's no need to spend $4k on an all in one solution, to meet the needs of a $200 system, maybe don't just spout off things others have said / you've read. There's a lot of misinformation on the internet, including in translated service manuals, and data sheets. Going and doing, so that you know, is better than stating something you read. Stating something that has been read, is about as useful as an engineering graduate, as all they know is what they've read. And trust me, nearly every engineering graduate is useless in the real world. And add to that, if you don't know this stuff, and just have an opinion, maybe accept what people with experience are telling you as information, and don't keep reciting the exact same thing over and over in response.
    • How complicated is PID boost control? To me it really doesn't seem that difficult. I'm not disputing the core assertion (specialization can be better than general purpose solutions), I'm just saying we're 30+ years removed from the days when transistor budgets were in the thousands and we had to hem and haw about whether there's enough ECC DRAM or enough clock cycles or the interrupt handler can respond fast enough to handle another task. I really struggle to see how a Greddy Profec or an HKS EVC7 or whatever else is somehow a far superior solution to what you get in a Haltech Nexus/Elite ECU. I don't see OEMs spending time on dedicated boost control modules in any car I've ever touched. Is there value to separating out a motor controller or engine controller vs an infotainment module? Of course, those are two completely different tasks with highly divergent requirements. The reason why I cite data sheets, service manuals, etc is because as you have clearly suggested I don't know what I'm doing, can't learn how to do anything correctly, and have never actually done anything myself. So when I do offer advice to people I like to use sources that are not just based off of taking my word for it and can be independently verified by others so it's not just my misinterpretation of a primary source.
    • That's awesome, well done! Love all these older Datsun / Nissans so rare now
    • As I said, there's trade offs to jamming EVERYTHING in. Timing, resources etc, being the huge ones. Calling out the factory ECU has nothing to do with it, as it doesn't do any form of fancy boost control. It's all open loop boost control. You mention the Haltech Nexus, that's effectively two separate devices jammed into one box. What you quote about it, is proof for that. So now you've lost flexibility as a product too...   A product designed to do one thing really well, will always beat other products doing multiple things. Also, I wouldn't knock COTS stuff, you'd be surprised how many things are using it, that you're probably totally in love with As for the SpaceX comment that we're working directly with them, it's about the type of stuff we're doing. We're doing design work, and breaking world firsts. If you can't understand that I have real world hands on experience, including in very modern tech, and actually understand this stuff, then to avoid useless debates where you just won't accept fact and experience, from here on, it seems you'd be be happy I (and possibly anyone with knowledge really) not reply to your questions, or input, no matter how much help you could be given to help you, or let you learn. It seems you're happy reading your data sheets, factory service manuals, and only want people to reinforce your thoughts and points of view. 
    • I don't really understand because clearly it's possible. The factory ECU is running on like a 4 MHz 16-bit processor. Modern GDI ECUs have like 200 MHz superscalar cores with floating point units too. The Haltech Nexus has two 240 MHz CPU cores. The Elite 2500 is a single 80 MHz core. Surely 20x the compute means adding some PID boost control logic isn't that complicated. I'm not saying clock speed is everything, but the requirements to add boost control to a port injection 6 cylinder ECU are really not that difficult. More I/O, more interrupt handlers, more working memory, etc isn't that crazy to figure out. SpaceX if anything shows just how far you can get arguably doing things the "wrong" way, ie x86 COTS running C++ on Linux. That is about as far away from the "correct" architecture as it gets for a real time system, but it works anyways. 
×
×
  • Create New...